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Started By
Message
Dryer repair help
Posted on 8/29/24 at 7:18 pm
Posted on 8/29/24 at 7:18 pm
Maytag MEDX655DW
bought post flood 2017
maybe 6 months ago, started running super hot- hot to the touch. replaced the heating element
not long after that when I hit the start button, either it wont come on at all, or it will run for 2 minutes and stop. we will change the timer setting, and sometimes that lets it run, but again for only short time.
last week, tested the start switch, ohms didn't go to 0 on multimeter so got the new part and changed it out. tried it, seemed to work, ran for about 10 minutes then stopped, and issues continued
few days ago I checked the thermal fuse, again read as bad, got new part and changed it. this time no response, same issues as before- doesn't come on or only runs for shirt times
thought maybe door switch- but it felt pretty rigid. stacked some heavy totes and tool box against the door anyway to make sure it wasn't being forced open by the load, but still crapped out
I'm out of ideas-
breaker isn't tripping, the 4 prong outlet isn't loose
any recommendations before iI call a guy?
thanks
bought post flood 2017
maybe 6 months ago, started running super hot- hot to the touch. replaced the heating element
not long after that when I hit the start button, either it wont come on at all, or it will run for 2 minutes and stop. we will change the timer setting, and sometimes that lets it run, but again for only short time.
last week, tested the start switch, ohms didn't go to 0 on multimeter so got the new part and changed it out. tried it, seemed to work, ran for about 10 minutes then stopped, and issues continued
few days ago I checked the thermal fuse, again read as bad, got new part and changed it. this time no response, same issues as before- doesn't come on or only runs for shirt times
thought maybe door switch- but it felt pretty rigid. stacked some heavy totes and tool box against the door anyway to make sure it wasn't being forced open by the load, but still crapped out
I'm out of ideas-
breaker isn't tripping, the 4 prong outlet isn't loose
any recommendations before iI call a guy?
thanks
4
Posted on 8/29/24 at 7:47 pm to LSUMJ
Bought everything OEM? If it's running too hot, it can wither be a faulty thermostat or poor air flow.
Have you completely cleaned out the exhaust vent?
Have you completely cleaned out the exhaust vent?
Posted on 8/29/24 at 7:50 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
start button - ordered at local appliance store, arrived from maytag
fuse- came from different appliance parts place, i had the feeling that part is pretty standard
vent is clean
hasnt run hot since I replaced that heating element, its getting it to run at all
fuse- came from different appliance parts place, i had the feeling that part is pretty standard
vent is clean
hasnt run hot since I replaced that heating element, its getting it to run at all
Posted on 8/30/24 at 12:19 am to LSUMJ
Sounds like your vent is clogged with lint. Fix that or you will burn your house down!
Posted on 8/30/24 at 10:32 pm to Spankum
Maybe check internally in the lint filter to make sure something is not internally obstructing the flow of exhaust air? Keep us posted as you just never know.
Posted on 8/31/24 at 9:02 am to LSUMJ
It doesn't start at all?
The thermal fuse cuts power to the motor on many models on some it just cuts power to the heat system. I'm pretty sure on yours it's the latter. (Edit, it's not power to start winding flows through your thermal fuse)
Power runs to timer, timer sends power to motor first centrifugal switch seems one leg of power to element. Other leg goes through the high temp and limiting circuits. The neutral for the motor goes through the lid switch. And belt switch if applicable (not in your model)
If an electric dryer doesn't start. First thing I'm doing is checking the door switch. It's the highest fail item for that issue. If it's a gas dryer I'm checking thermal fuse first. The thermals and thermostats only control the heat. If you're not running at all you have an issue with the motor side of things.
First do you have 115-120 volts on both legs of your 240v outlet? A half dead breaker is an extremely common issue. Especially if you have GE breakers.
Second does the dryer light turn on and off with the door switch?
Is the belt in place? (If drum turns with no resistance then it's off)
Then I would check thermal fuse because sometimes it cuts power to the motor. You should do a tone continuity test.
If ask those conditions pass. Then you have a motor or a timer issue. I replace both often.
The timer contacts can burn up and sometimes can be cleaned. To really test this.
I remove the front panel and the drum. Then I jump the door switch wires and put my meter on the hot lead to the motor. If I get power, bad motor, if I don't get power, bad timer.
I'm posting this off the top of my head, but I'll look for a schematic. There should be one in the control panel area.
These are simple dryers. Also getting too hot is a clogged vent. Unless it's hot even on air dry, then it's a grounded element.
The thermal fuse cuts power to the motor on many models on some it just cuts power to the heat system. I'm pretty sure on yours it's the latter. (Edit, it's not power to start winding flows through your thermal fuse)
Power runs to timer, timer sends power to motor first centrifugal switch seems one leg of power to element. Other leg goes through the high temp and limiting circuits. The neutral for the motor goes through the lid switch. And belt switch if applicable (not in your model)
If an electric dryer doesn't start. First thing I'm doing is checking the door switch. It's the highest fail item for that issue. If it's a gas dryer I'm checking thermal fuse first. The thermals and thermostats only control the heat. If you're not running at all you have an issue with the motor side of things.
First do you have 115-120 volts on both legs of your 240v outlet? A half dead breaker is an extremely common issue. Especially if you have GE breakers.
Second does the dryer light turn on and off with the door switch?
Is the belt in place? (If drum turns with no resistance then it's off)
Then I would check thermal fuse because sometimes it cuts power to the motor. You should do a tone continuity test.
If ask those conditions pass. Then you have a motor or a timer issue. I replace both often.
The timer contacts can burn up and sometimes can be cleaned. To really test this.
I remove the front panel and the drum. Then I jump the door switch wires and put my meter on the hot lead to the motor. If I get power, bad motor, if I don't get power, bad timer.
I'm posting this off the top of my head, but I'll look for a schematic. There should be one in the control panel area.
These are simple dryers. Also getting too hot is a clogged vent. Unless it's hot even on air dry, then it's a grounded element.
This post was edited on 8/31/24 at 9:38 am
Posted on 8/31/24 at 9:04 am to Napoleon
I didn't catch this...
Safety switch on motor is tripping. Motor got too hot.
Based on you changing the thermals and if the door switch were good. I would be bringing a motor with me if I were doing a call on this dryer.
And a referral to a vent cleaning company(my insurance stopped allowing me to do it)
quote:
long after that when I hit the start button, either it wont come on at all, or it will run for 2 minutes and stop.
Safety switch on motor is tripping. Motor got too hot.
Based on you changing the thermals and if the door switch were good. I would be bringing a motor with me if I were doing a call on this dryer.
And a referral to a vent cleaning company(my insurance stopped allowing me to do it)
Posted on 8/31/24 at 9:07 am to LSUMJ
quote:
vent is clean
With the door held open and switch pressed. Throw a dollar bill against the vent intake. If it sticks vent is clear if it doesn't vent is clogged. Dollar bill test. I do it in every dryer.
I'm thinking you have a bad motor. They aren't that bad in cost.
Posted on 8/31/24 at 9:14 am to LSUMJ
Thermal fuse is inline to motor start winding.
Power flows through door switch and push to start switch. Once motor starts spinning power runs through run winding.
If it tries to start then dies it's not your fuse.
And as you see the other thermals on act on the heat circuit but the motor. So if the whole machine shuts off, yet can start. Then the motor is your problem.
Power flows through door switch and push to start switch. Once motor starts spinning power runs through run winding.
If it tries to start then dies it's not your fuse.
And as you see the other thermals on act on the heat circuit but the motor. So if the whole machine shuts off, yet can start. Then the motor is your problem.
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