- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Diagnosing Brake Issue
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:33 pm
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:33 pm
I started hearing a grinding sound about a week ago. I thought it strange since I heard no whistle beforehand but whatever. I replaced the brakes yesterday, and one was worn pretty much all the way down, but all of the rotors are still good. I replaced the brakes thinking that was a done deal.
However, I still hear the same grinding like sound today when I slow to a stop along with a rubbing, whistling sound that increases and decreases with speed. Is this indicative of a bad caliper piston, and what I'm hearing is the pad continuing to brush up on the rotor after the brake has been disengaged? I don't see how that explains how I'm hearing a grinding like sound even though every pad is brand new. Any help is appreciated.
However, I still hear the same grinding like sound today when I slow to a stop along with a rubbing, whistling sound that increases and decreases with speed. Is this indicative of a bad caliper piston, and what I'm hearing is the pad continuing to brush up on the rotor after the brake has been disengaged? I don't see how that explains how I'm hearing a grinding like sound even though every pad is brand new. Any help is appreciated.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 6:38 pm to facher08
My suggestion would be to take it in.
Issues with brakes are no joke. If a pad and rotor change didn't fix it, then there is an underlying failure somewhere.
Issues with brakes are no joke. If a pad and rotor change didn't fix it, then there is an underlying failure somewhere.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 7:12 pm to facher08
Miles on the car? Assuming you never replaced the brake parts outside of pads.
We replaced our front pads since i could hear what sounded like nasty metal sounds rubbing against the rotors. After testing the new pads, i could hear a light whistle as i got up to 20 mph and it would get louder as i wekt faster. It eventually went away after a few miles and after some hard braking. Internet said it was normal so i went with it. About 3 months in and we are still good.
We replaced our front pads since i could hear what sounded like nasty metal sounds rubbing against the rotors. After testing the new pads, i could hear a light whistle as i got up to 20 mph and it would get louder as i wekt faster. It eventually went away after a few miles and after some hard braking. Internet said it was normal so i went with it. About 3 months in and we are still good.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 7:15 pm to facher08
Did you replace the caliper hardware? Maybe the caliper is sticking. I would never replace my pads and just leave the old rotors either. They are fairly cheap.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 7:18 pm to facher08
Definitely leave this to the professionals.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 7:21 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
quote:
Miles on the car? Assuming you never replaced the brake parts outside of pads.
A shade under 164,000. I've replaced the rotors and flushed the brake lines before.
Posted on 2/17/25 at 7:23 pm to LEASTBAY
quote:
Did you replace the caliper hardware?
No, but I'm thinking a bad piston may be my issue. They all retracted fine, but the rubber did look a bit worn on one of them.
quote:
I would never replace my pads and just leave the old rotors either.
This seems like overkill, no? Why would you replace smooth rotors?
quote:
They are fairly cheap.
$412 for my four
Posted on 2/17/25 at 7:29 pm to facher08
Yeah. That's a bit high. My Toyota has them starting at $15 for the rears.
Posted on 2/18/25 at 10:26 am to facher08
That is very high are you getting them dealership or AutoZone? Rock auto should be couple hundred cheaper unless you need something special like regen rotors.
Did you grease the slide pins? uneven brake pad wear is a sign of bad pins or bad piston. It could also be warped rotors. New rotors are not made to be reused long term, you can maybe get 2 sets of pads but the tolerance is real thing for newer cars.
Did you grease the slide pins? uneven brake pad wear is a sign of bad pins or bad piston. It could also be warped rotors. New rotors are not made to be reused long term, you can maybe get 2 sets of pads but the tolerance is real thing for newer cars.
Posted on 2/18/25 at 10:53 am to Dolphinepride
quote:
That is very high are you getting them dealership or AutoZone?
They were the same price, to the penny at both AutoZone and O'Reilly.
quote:
Did you grease the slide pins?
I greased the backs of the pads, but forgot the pins this time.
quote:
uneven brake pad wear is a sign of bad pins or bad piston.
I'm leaning towards this as the issue. While low, all the them had at least some pad left except for one. That one was almost completely gone.
Posted on 2/18/25 at 11:10 am to facher08
buy that 8 oz brake grease bottle and grease up all the pins/pads
Posted on 2/18/25 at 11:37 am to facher08
Its unlikely the piston and you need to grease the slide pins especially at that millage but I do not think that would cause the rumbling or grinding you are hearing.
You didn't mention how old the rotors are so not sure if they need to be changed or not . If you have a slide caliper you should measure how much meat you have left on the rotor and if its warped. There is a spec the rotors should be between but not sure what that is without make and model.
Auto zone and oreilly is still very over priced. You can get a better price online but will have to wait for shipping. Websites like rock auto or partsgeek are good. If you get a part number you can look on eBay too.
Biggest issues with buying online is warrantying a part means shipping it back but I've never had that issues although YMMV.
You didn't mention how old the rotors are so not sure if they need to be changed or not . If you have a slide caliper you should measure how much meat you have left on the rotor and if its warped. There is a spec the rotors should be between but not sure what that is without make and model.
Auto zone and oreilly is still very over priced. You can get a better price online but will have to wait for shipping. Websites like rock auto or partsgeek are good. If you get a part number you can look on eBay too.
Biggest issues with buying online is warrantying a part means shipping it back but I've never had that issues although YMMV.
This post was edited on 2/18/25 at 11:38 am
Posted on 2/18/25 at 1:22 pm to LEASTBAY
quote:
Yeah. That's a bit high. My Toyota has them starting at $15 for the rears.
Front rotors for my son's Sequoia were $130, each.
To replace the front pads and rotors, took about an hour in Dec.
Posted on 2/19/25 at 11:59 am to facher08
disc brakes are about as easy to replace as changing a flat tire or changing your own oil....4 times over of course because there are 4 of them but no more challenging.
Watch some youtube videos and grease the pins and replace pads and rotors.....and save a bunch of money. Order parts online and use the VIN. It could not be simpler
Watch some youtube videos and grease the pins and replace pads and rotors.....and save a bunch of money. Order parts online and use the VIN. It could not be simpler
Posted on 2/19/25 at 12:21 pm to AwgustaDawg
quote:
AwgustaDawg
You must have been one of those kids in school that would always get points off for not reading the directions.
Posted on 2/19/25 at 6:02 pm to facher08
Wheel bearing? If you are still hearing the sound when you aren't on the brake pedal, I'd suspect the wheel bearing.
Posted on 2/19/25 at 6:16 pm to Gold Member
quote:
Wheel bearing? If you are still hearing the sound when you aren't on the brake pedal, I'd suspect the wheel bearing.
Update:
I'm embarrassed, but not too proud to admit that I put one pad on backwards metal side down. I can't believe i did that. I blame the beer.
Popular
Back to top
