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re: Cost of new gutters
Posted on 5/12/19 at 9:34 am to cajunsaint
Posted on 5/12/19 at 9:34 am to cajunsaint
Who are you using to install them?
Posted on 5/12/19 at 11:36 am to vtowntigah
Cutting Edge Gutters & Patio. He's actually doing the gutters on a few of the homes in our subdivision. I checked and it's 75' of gutters. The price is 200$ less than another quote that I received, plus this included an extra 15' that the other quote didn't.
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Posted on 5/12/19 at 4:42 pm to cajunsaint
I sent them a message. They dont service the BR area?
Posted on 5/13/19 at 7:08 am to vtowntigah
Got 65' seamless gutters last year with 4 downspouts and my total was $560
Posted on 5/13/19 at 7:20 am to vtowntigah
My 6” gutters were around $7 a foot for roughly 300 feet.
Posted on 5/13/19 at 11:44 am to vtowntigah
I agreed to "helping" a family member install gutters on his home via the lowes option; he doesn't even own a drill.
Never again, unless it's for me. You'll be much better off if you have a good helper. Much better.
It was a fairly simple process: measure, sketch a simple layout of the setup and draw up a building schedule, use a laser level to set the gradient for the gutter brackets, and go buy and install the parts.
The hard part is when you get to the store: seemingly trifling yet critical parts are not in the bin they should be, are non-existent, etc. The most money was spent on the hardware and supplies needed for downspouts, elbows, etc. From the source I went from, it's recommended that each 40' run have a downspout. We tried to stretch that rule on the last 60 foot section (due to my insistence on getting done), but after the 1st big chunk floater rain it became clear that we were going to have to install a downspout. We did, and it fixed the problem.
Make sure if you do it yourself that the rise/run for the gutter grade is, iirc, a minimum of 1'/100'- but check me on that.
Also make sure your sections are not canted one way or another and are plumb along the cross section. Proper type and quantity of gutter hanging brackets can solve that problem. If they're not installed true, then during big rains water will spill over the side that it's cheated to. I also recommend gutter screens if you have trees around. They still have to be cleaned like gutters without, but at least your downspouts don't get clogged and blow out sections of your gutter work.
Do NOT skimp on the gutter hanging brackets, and make sure you slide on the parts that need to be slid on before you go attaching the gutter sections together for install. That's when you realize, as your hanging upside down on sticky, hot as hell shingles, cussing at your helper to "Gimme an inch my way gotdammit!" that the damned coupler bracket for the damned elbow (the elbow that you didn't plan for but had to use because lowes didn't have the other one) had to go on first.
And if you do it yourself, make damned sure you have a sketch and a schedule of what all you'll need. It's about like plumbing: you head to the store without a plan, and your bound to stay in there 3 times longer than needed, come out with everything you didn't need, and then have to head back repeatedly to fix the initial screw up. Or that's how I am with plumbing (and apparently gutters).
It helped his house tremendously with moisture gathering around the foundation and going under and into the crawlspace. As a matter of fact, it solved all sorts of problems, including issues with landscaping in the beds directly under the drip line, excessive moisture in the heavily used areas of the lawn, and more.
Never again, unless it's for me. You'll be much better off if you have a good helper. Much better.
It was a fairly simple process: measure, sketch a simple layout of the setup and draw up a building schedule, use a laser level to set the gradient for the gutter brackets, and go buy and install the parts.
The hard part is when you get to the store: seemingly trifling yet critical parts are not in the bin they should be, are non-existent, etc. The most money was spent on the hardware and supplies needed for downspouts, elbows, etc. From the source I went from, it's recommended that each 40' run have a downspout. We tried to stretch that rule on the last 60 foot section (due to my insistence on getting done), but after the 1st big chunk floater rain it became clear that we were going to have to install a downspout. We did, and it fixed the problem.
Make sure if you do it yourself that the rise/run for the gutter grade is, iirc, a minimum of 1'/100'- but check me on that.
Also make sure your sections are not canted one way or another and are plumb along the cross section. Proper type and quantity of gutter hanging brackets can solve that problem. If they're not installed true, then during big rains water will spill over the side that it's cheated to. I also recommend gutter screens if you have trees around. They still have to be cleaned like gutters without, but at least your downspouts don't get clogged and blow out sections of your gutter work.
Do NOT skimp on the gutter hanging brackets, and make sure you slide on the parts that need to be slid on before you go attaching the gutter sections together for install. That's when you realize, as your hanging upside down on sticky, hot as hell shingles, cussing at your helper to "Gimme an inch my way gotdammit!" that the damned coupler bracket for the damned elbow (the elbow that you didn't plan for but had to use because lowes didn't have the other one) had to go on first.
And if you do it yourself, make damned sure you have a sketch and a schedule of what all you'll need. It's about like plumbing: you head to the store without a plan, and your bound to stay in there 3 times longer than needed, come out with everything you didn't need, and then have to head back repeatedly to fix the initial screw up. Or that's how I am with plumbing (and apparently gutters).
It helped his house tremendously with moisture gathering around the foundation and going under and into the crawlspace. As a matter of fact, it solved all sorts of problems, including issues with landscaping in the beds directly under the drip line, excessive moisture in the heavily used areas of the lawn, and more.
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