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Any experience with selecting frameless shower glass/ door?
Posted on 12/10/25 at 12:08 pm
Posted on 12/10/25 at 12:08 pm
Trying to decipher what's a good buy and what's bs marketing.
We'll probably get 1/2 inch thick glass. I read "low iron" glass remains clear in appearance and doesn't get the green tint that thicker glass typically does.
Also read about factory coatings etc but hard to tell what's legit or worth the $.
Share your knowledge kind sirs.
We'll probably get 1/2 inch thick glass. I read "low iron" glass remains clear in appearance and doesn't get the green tint that thicker glass typically does.
Also read about factory coatings etc but hard to tell what's legit or worth the $.
Share your knowledge kind sirs.
Posted on 12/10/25 at 1:59 pm to Jmcc64
By "remains clear" I meant it doesn't have the green tint that other glass does, not that it doesn't get dirty or water spots.
Posted on 12/10/25 at 2:03 pm to The Mick
ok. couldn't say if ours had the green tint or not. probably was just the standard . i doubt our is 1/2" though. more like 3/8.
This post was edited on 12/10/25 at 2:04 pm
Posted on 12/10/25 at 3:40 pm to The Mick
Mine is referred to as “semi-frameless” which means the actual door itself is frameless, but the surround has a frame. Mine is thick, but I don’t think it is a full 1/2”. I’ll measure the thickness shortly.
I have seen truly frameless shower doors in hotels and they look damn nice. If you opt for frameless, I would get the thickest glass available.
I have never seen glass get a green tint, so I wouldn’t bother with that. The only thing that I have seen is shower doors invariably get cloudy due to etching of the glass by chemicals/minerals in the water, so I would get a style of glass that you can tolerate that on. You don’t want to be tempted to change the glass out every couple of years when it gets cloudy.
Another thing I have noticed on the frameless is that depending on placement of the showerhead, they sometimes tend to leak all over the floor. If opting for frameless, be sure you are comfortable with the sealing mechanism.
I have seen truly frameless shower doors in hotels and they look damn nice. If you opt for frameless, I would get the thickest glass available.
I have never seen glass get a green tint, so I wouldn’t bother with that. The only thing that I have seen is shower doors invariably get cloudy due to etching of the glass by chemicals/minerals in the water, so I would get a style of glass that you can tolerate that on. You don’t want to be tempted to change the glass out every couple of years when it gets cloudy.
Another thing I have noticed on the frameless is that depending on placement of the showerhead, they sometimes tend to leak all over the floor. If opting for frameless, be sure you are comfortable with the sealing mechanism.
This post was edited on 12/11/25 at 10:52 am
Posted on 12/10/25 at 4:25 pm to The Mick
I put one in a bathroom I remodeled but no longer live in that house. I know it was not 1/2" more likely 3/8". Keep a squeegee in the shower to squeegee the door after showering. Cuts down on the water spots.
Posted on 12/11/25 at 9:41 am to The Mick
Glass shower guy here. I've installed thousands. I've manufactured tens, maybe hundreds of thousands of showers.
Your two basic types of glass are 3/8 and 1/2". 3/8" is used in like 95% or more of shower enclosures. 1/2" is used where it's structurally needed, or if someone just wants to spend the extra money because they have it.
Clear vs Low-Iron. I'm not a big upseller on low-iron unless I think the room needs it. Most showers are fine with standard clear. If you have a very white bathroom, low-iron may be beneficial. With more neutral color bathrooms you don't really notice the green tint. 1/2" has more of a tint than 3/8.
Coatings: There are a couple types of this. One is applied at the float facility when the glass is made, and another is applied after the glass is tempered at your local fabricator. The factory-coated stuff is pretty legit, but they price it like it's legit (sometimes 2-3x the cost of the glass). It actually seals the micro-pits in the glass. The fabricator-applied coating is less expensive, but it does have a lifespan, regardless of what the guy selling it to you says. It's basically a hydrophobic coating that sheds water more so than keeps it clean. Depending on the hardness of your water, a coating may or may not be necessary.
A cheaper solution is to apply Rain-X every few months. Just depends on if you want that hassle. It'll also get you pretty high when you're applying it in a closed space.
1/2" low-iron in a white bathroom:
1/2" standard clear in a light-colored bathroom:
1/2" standard clear in neutral bathroom:
3/8" standard clear in white bathroom:
3/8" standard clear in neutral bathroom:
Your two basic types of glass are 3/8 and 1/2". 3/8" is used in like 95% or more of shower enclosures. 1/2" is used where it's structurally needed, or if someone just wants to spend the extra money because they have it.
Clear vs Low-Iron. I'm not a big upseller on low-iron unless I think the room needs it. Most showers are fine with standard clear. If you have a very white bathroom, low-iron may be beneficial. With more neutral color bathrooms you don't really notice the green tint. 1/2" has more of a tint than 3/8.
Coatings: There are a couple types of this. One is applied at the float facility when the glass is made, and another is applied after the glass is tempered at your local fabricator. The factory-coated stuff is pretty legit, but they price it like it's legit (sometimes 2-3x the cost of the glass). It actually seals the micro-pits in the glass. The fabricator-applied coating is less expensive, but it does have a lifespan, regardless of what the guy selling it to you says. It's basically a hydrophobic coating that sheds water more so than keeps it clean. Depending on the hardness of your water, a coating may or may not be necessary.
A cheaper solution is to apply Rain-X every few months. Just depends on if you want that hassle. It'll also get you pretty high when you're applying it in a closed space.
1/2" low-iron in a white bathroom:
1/2" standard clear in a light-colored bathroom:
1/2" standard clear in neutral bathroom:
3/8" standard clear in white bathroom:
3/8" standard clear in neutral bathroom:
This post was edited on 12/11/25 at 10:03 am
Posted on 12/11/25 at 9:45 am to Spankum
quote:
Another thing I have noticed on the frameless is that depending on placement of the showerhead, they sometimes tend to leak all over the floor.
This is an important point. These are not aquariums. Shower head placement, hand-held usage, and ensuring proper slopes on the stone/tile can all affect how much water can leak out.
Nothing can be done to stop the water if the base of your shower is sloped the wrong way. Nothing can be done to stop the water if your shower head or hand-held sprays directly at the glass.
Posted on 12/11/25 at 10:46 am to BottomlandBrew
Man, that’s a bunch of good info! 
Posted on 12/11/25 at 12:02 pm to BottomlandBrew
That's nice work Bottomland! Are you in Southern Louisiana?
Posted on 12/11/25 at 12:42 pm to sosaysmorvant
Thanks. I'm in Nashville.
Posted on 12/11/25 at 4:20 pm to sosaysmorvant
quote:back off!!
That's nice work Bottomland! Are you in Southern Louisiana?
BB is a national treasure here in nashville.
Posted on 12/11/25 at 4:43 pm to The Mick
Ours shattered 2 weeks before we moved while we were out of town. Was about 15yr old. No one could say "why", except possible impurities? Same as micropits referenced above?
Posted on 12/11/25 at 5:30 pm to gungho
Tempered glass is a mysterious material. I temper glass all day, and while I know how it physically works, it still kind of has a mind of it's own. It's impressive just how much stress is placed on the molecular structure.
The impurity mentioned to you is known as an inclusion. It's basically a tiny fragment of metal that gets in the glass when it is made at at the float facility. Most of the time the inclusion is too smal to be seen with the naked eye. When the glass gets tempered, the stress around that inclusion can cause the glass to explode right away, or it could take years. When you were out of town, was it colder or hotter in your house because a thermostat was turned down? Temperature fluctuations can cause an inclusion to blow the glass.
The impurity mentioned to you is known as an inclusion. It's basically a tiny fragment of metal that gets in the glass when it is made at at the float facility. Most of the time the inclusion is too smal to be seen with the naked eye. When the glass gets tempered, the stress around that inclusion can cause the glass to explode right away, or it could take years. When you were out of town, was it colder or hotter in your house because a thermostat was turned down? Temperature fluctuations can cause an inclusion to blow the glass.
Posted on 12/11/25 at 6:21 pm to BottomlandBrew
Yes, your 2nd paragraph is pretty much what we were told. There wasn't really any major temp fluctuations, less than if we had been home, Thermostats were at narrow range. Guess it was just it's time. What a mess, though
Posted on 12/11/25 at 11:38 pm to gungho
quote:
Ours shattered 2 weeks before we moved while we were out of town.
quote:
Ours shattered 2 weeks before we moved while we were out of town
Mine shattered into thousands of pieces at 3 AM one night. I was slipping around the house like a commando with my pistol in my hand!
Posted on 12/12/25 at 9:09 am to Spankum
quote:
Mine shattered into thousands of pieces at 3 AM one night. I was slipping around the house like a commando with my pistol in my hand!
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