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2013 Honda Accord - acceleration issues
Posted on 8/20/24 at 4:46 pm
Posted on 8/20/24 at 4:46 pm
Zero codes come in via diagnostics.
Outta park and into drive = no acceleration and rpm’s don’t move with accelerator floored. Gradually acceleration will begin but extremely slow.
If car is parked and turned off, then restarted problem will be resolved immediately but will reoccur.
Thoughts?
Outta park and into drive = no acceleration and rpm’s don’t move with accelerator floored. Gradually acceleration will begin but extremely slow.
If car is parked and turned off, then restarted problem will be resolved immediately but will reoccur.
Thoughts?
5
Posted on 8/20/24 at 5:11 pm to prplngldtigr
Sounds like it's in limp mode. Check your oil. My wife (no pics) had her car do this because she was low on oil. It was a Hyundai but this sounds similar to what you had.
Posted on 8/20/24 at 6:13 pm to prplngldtigr
Have live stream scanner to check throttle position?
Reset by disconnecting battery for extended period?
An advanced engine like that should throw codes if it finds something wrong.
Transmission shift good up and down manually?
Reset by disconnecting battery for extended period?
An advanced engine like that should throw codes if it finds something wrong.
Transmission shift good up and down manually?
Posted on 8/20/24 at 8:15 pm to Dallaswho
Zero codes.
No dash warning lights.
Advances through all gears as expected normally. Just will not accelerate from park to
drive and rpm’s won’t increase.
Barely an idle.
Will creep forward with the pedal floored.
Eventually slowly accelerates.
Oil level good.
And again, if it’s turned off…it will usually cooperate on restart.
Something temperature related maybe?
On the battery disconnect, what ya tninkin will reset? Just curious.
No dash warning lights.
Advances through all gears as expected normally. Just will not accelerate from park to
drive and rpm’s won’t increase.
Barely an idle.
Will creep forward with the pedal floored.
Eventually slowly accelerates.
Oil level good.
And again, if it’s turned off…it will usually cooperate on restart.
Something temperature related maybe?
On the battery disconnect, what ya tninkin will reset? Just curious.
This post was edited on 8/20/24 at 8:17 pm
Posted on 8/20/24 at 9:09 pm to prplngldtigr
Might have to pay the dealer to do a diagnostic and probably find out that you need to update your car's computer. Similar situation also happened to me awhile back. Changed the mass airflow sensor and needed the dealer computer to physically update it. It's a scam.
Posted on 8/20/24 at 9:55 pm to prplngldtigr
quote:
On the battery disconnect, what ya tninkin will reset? Just curious.
Probably nothing but might to get ecu to run more tests than a standard startup and might recalibrate accelerator pedal.
Posted on 8/21/24 at 9:34 am to prplngldtigr
Very odd that there are no OBD codes.
That is a drive by wire system so, it sounds like a throttle body/position sensor issue. That absolutely should throw a code.
That is a drive by wire system so, it sounds like a throttle body/position sensor issue. That absolutely should throw a code.
Posted on 8/21/24 at 10:17 am to jake wade
quote:
That is a drive by wire system so, it sounds like a throttle body/position sensor issue. That absolutely should throw a code
If the accelerator pedal sensor is Hall effect type, it may lag smoothly and not throw code. Engine would think it is doing what it is commanded to do.
If pedal potentiometer type, failure should be detected more easily. Not sure what type cars use. Hall should be more reliable because there is no brush.
I’d personally troubleshoot that with a live scanner, then take car in because it could just be undetected physical damage that could get worse.
Posted on 8/21/24 at 11:52 am to jake wade
Spoke with a mechanic this morning. He said it’s not throwing a code because it likely has to be in that impaired mode to detect.
He said the exact same thing you guys are saying about the throttle body and pedal.
He said the exact same thing you guys are saying about the throttle body and pedal.
Posted on 8/21/24 at 12:08 pm to prplngldtigr
Initial thought is throttle body. Probably a $900-$1,000 fix.
Posted on 8/21/24 at 1:20 pm to HeartAttackTiger
Thanks
I was wondering the dollar damage.
I was wondering the dollar damage.
Posted on 8/21/24 at 1:47 pm to prplngldtigr
Ok so this was interesting so I looked into it.
Unlike the stuff I have built in the past, most cars use dual accelerator position sensors. That makes this issue also unlikely without throwing a code but possible if a piece of plastic broke inside or something.
Same suggestion. Live scan app sensor w/ tps then take to mechanic if that doesn’t find the issue.
Unlike the stuff I have built in the past, most cars use dual accelerator position sensors. That makes this issue also unlikely without throwing a code but possible if a piece of plastic broke inside or something.
Same suggestion. Live scan app sensor w/ tps then take to mechanic if that doesn’t find the issue.
Posted on 8/21/24 at 3:05 pm to Dallaswho
Many thanks
Posted on 8/22/24 at 7:46 am to prplngldtigr
If you're getting close to 150k, get ready for a starter replacement and that's hard to get to. Also on the list is ABS module failing. But your problem at the moment is most likely at the throttle or the pedal. I haven't experienced that one yet. Accord's will run pretty much with 1 qt of oil after the 4 mysteriously disappears too so it's probably not limp mode for that.
Posted on 8/22/24 at 8:14 am to OU812ME2
From personal experience, the 2013 era accords with the dream works engine have valve cover gasket failures that will allow a little oil to escape.
Another common issue is the rack and pinion assembly.
Another common issue is the rack and pinion assembly.
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