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Started By
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Finishing out a hardwood flooring, up date 7/24
Posted on 7/9/19 at 11:52 am
Posted on 7/9/19 at 11:52 am
Flooring is 100+ years old quarter sawed pine flooring that came out of new Orleans. All boards were passed thru a planner before installing due to a ton on varnish and wax.
After planner pass.
Installed and skim coated with a floor filler.
Sanding and more sanding.
And yes, dust for days everywhere.
I did a test area were the kitchen island will be with two different varnishes. Wasn't happy at all.
So, the product I am using is called Waterlox. LINK
Hey thanks Wick.
This product needs 4 coats. No sanding in between coats and takes 24 hours to dry per coat.
First coat down in the back bedroom.
I will up date after each new coat. So far I am very happy with this product.
After planner pass.
Installed and skim coated with a floor filler.
Sanding and more sanding.
And yes, dust for days everywhere.
I did a test area were the kitchen island will be with two different varnishes. Wasn't happy at all.
So, the product I am using is called Waterlox. LINK
Hey thanks Wick.
This product needs 4 coats. No sanding in between coats and takes 24 hours to dry per coat. First coat down in the back bedroom.
I will up date after each new coat.
So far I am very happy with this product. This post was edited on 7/24/19 at 8:49 am
2
Posted on 7/9/19 at 12:01 pm to fishfighter
You will really notice a difference when you go from the first to the second coat. I can't wait to see the finished product.
Posted on 7/9/19 at 12:06 pm to wickowick
Will get a picture of the test area. It sucked. Varnish just didn't do anything for the wood grain. Thanks again.
This post was edited on 7/23/19 at 10:29 am
Posted on 7/9/19 at 12:30 pm to fishfighter
Mighty pretty!!
Posted on 7/9/19 at 1:13 pm to fishfighter
I refinished the oak floors in my house a few weeks ago.
Proper type of sander for these projects, very little dust too.
Proper type of sander for these projects, very little dust too.
Posted on 7/9/19 at 5:00 pm to Clames
Yep, used one of those suckers. Being NOT a pro, I found that it is easy to dig in to the flooring easy. The pad machine is for dumbies to not screw up. 
When and checked the flooring and close windows, turn off the fan. The floor is bone dry. One hot SOB today.
When and checked the flooring and close windows, turn off the fan. The floor is bone dry. One hot SOB today.
Posted on 7/10/19 at 12:00 pm to fishfighter
Got the second coat down this morning. This is the product I am using. Heat doesn't cure it, air does. So once you open a can, take a wood clamp and squeeze the can and then put the cap on.
This post was edited on 7/10/19 at 12:05 pm
Posted on 7/10/19 at 12:40 pm to fishfighter
Nice
Posted on 7/10/19 at 1:07 pm to Clames
I really like the look. Did you finish while leaving the floor boards on?
Posted on 7/10/19 at 1:31 pm to fishfighter
The best thing about this stuff is there is no poly top coat, if you need to touch it up you just add more. The shine will be a little off on a repair, but you can use some steel wool to match the shine if so desired.
Posted on 7/10/19 at 7:22 pm to nerd guy
quote:
Did you finish while leaving the floor boards on?
?
Posted on 7/10/19 at 10:14 pm to fishfighter
Woops. I meant baseboards. I was thinking you'd have to remove them to re-finish the flooring.
Although, i guess it wouldn't matter if you put shoe molding or quarter rounds on.
Although, i guess it wouldn't matter if you put shoe molding or quarter rounds on.
This post was edited on 7/10/19 at 10:39 pm
Posted on 7/11/19 at 6:05 am to nerd guy
Myself, this is a new build and I haven't installed the baseboards yet. They are oak like this. All trim is oak thru the complete house.
They are oak like this. All trim is oak thru the complete house. This post was edited on 7/11/19 at 6:06 am
Posted on 7/11/19 at 9:22 am to fishfighter
Second coat dried.
This is what I am using to apply the finish. A sheep skin pad.
Third coat. It's building up.
This is what I am using to apply the finish. A sheep skin pad.
Third coat. It's building up.
This post was edited on 7/11/19 at 9:25 am
Posted on 7/11/19 at 10:23 am to fishfighter
Just did same exact thing last year. 100 year heart pine, 4 coats of waterlox. Do yourself a huge favor and get some box fans in you windows on one side of the house blowing in, and the other side blowing out to create a wind tunnel. Leave on 24/7 for 3 days between coats, and a month after final coat. That stuff take a LOT longer to cure than what they advertise and recommend. If you bring in furniture before it is 100% cured you will have scuffs, cloudiness, scratches, rubs etc. i followed their instructions to the letter, and had some serious issues. About 9 months after i moved in it finally cured to 100%. The floors look decent in rooms i didnt use much, but pretty horrid in the living and kitchen. It also is definitely not as hard as polyurethan and i requires more delicate use.
Posted on 7/11/19 at 11:09 am to rotrain
Got the windows in that room open
n and have a big floor fan at the back door blowing out. I have a very good air flow.
As far as moving in, it's a guest house and it will not be finished anytime soon.
n and have a big floor fan at the back door blowing out. I have a very good air flow.
As far as moving in, it's a guest house and it will not be finished anytime soon.
Posted on 7/12/19 at 8:47 am to fishfighter
Forth and final coat done.
Suppose to finish out at a semi gloss finish. I'm still up in the wind with that or do a satin gloss finish. Would just have to order a gallon of the satin and apply one coat.
Suppose to finish out at a semi gloss finish. I'm still up in the wind with that or do a satin gloss finish. Would just have to order a gallon of the satin and apply one coat.
Posted on 7/12/19 at 9:19 am to fishfighter
Go semi-gloss
Posted on 7/12/19 at 11:35 am to OleWarSkuleAlum
All trim is satin finish, so I don't know.
Posted on 7/12/19 at 12:42 pm to fishfighter
Get a closeup showing the grain of the wood
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