- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Completely Desolated/Restore Back Yard
Posted on 6/19/19 at 10:10 am to MisslePig
Posted on 6/19/19 at 10:10 am to MisslePig
if it is truly all weeds, all you're going to be doing is watering weeds...
pics would help. Also, with roundup or something similar it doesn't take 3 weeks to kill the weeds. You will see some dying the next day.
Need more details tho
pics would help. Also, with roundup or something similar it doesn't take 3 weeks to kill the weeds. You will see some dying the next day.
Need more details tho
Posted on 6/19/19 at 10:51 am to AU_251
What herbicide did you order? Assuming you have some desirable grass - St Aug, centipede, Bermudagrass or zoysia - mixed in with the weeds, I suggest using methsulfuron methyl (MSM Turf) or Celsius herbicides to spray the entire lawn because not only are they good broad spectrum weed killers they are safe to use on the 4 lawn grasses in this summer heat.
Other good lawn herbicides can potentially kill your good grass at temperatures exceeding high 80s-90s. Follow the label diections and use spreader/sticker (surfactant) in the herbicide solution.
You’ll need to spray again after a few weeks and be aware that younger weeds are more easily controlled than older weeds. Usually the herbicides are “rain fast” after several hours so yes you can water. Do as others suggest by cutting the grass/weeds often so they don’t develop seed heads but don’t scalp the good grass.
After you see some significant death of the weeds, I’d fertilize the good grass with lawn fertilizer, but not weed & feed, to stimulate growth of the lawn grass.
In fall (Sept/Oct), I’d apply a granular pre-emergent herbicide, for example, Dimension, and re-apply it in the spring (late Feb/March). Pre-emergent herbicides are a game changer in suppressing annual weeds in problem lawns.
Certain perennial weeds and grassy weeds may require special attention and spot spraying with certain herbicides depending on your lawn grass.
Be patient, but persistent, and you should be able to turn your lawn around.
Other good lawn herbicides can potentially kill your good grass at temperatures exceeding high 80s-90s. Follow the label diections and use spreader/sticker (surfactant) in the herbicide solution.
You’ll need to spray again after a few weeks and be aware that younger weeds are more easily controlled than older weeds. Usually the herbicides are “rain fast” after several hours so yes you can water. Do as others suggest by cutting the grass/weeds often so they don’t develop seed heads but don’t scalp the good grass.
After you see some significant death of the weeds, I’d fertilize the good grass with lawn fertilizer, but not weed & feed, to stimulate growth of the lawn grass.
In fall (Sept/Oct), I’d apply a granular pre-emergent herbicide, for example, Dimension, and re-apply it in the spring (late Feb/March). Pre-emergent herbicides are a game changer in suppressing annual weeds in problem lawns.
Certain perennial weeds and grassy weeds may require special attention and spot spraying with certain herbicides depending on your lawn grass.
Be patient, but persistent, and you should be able to turn your lawn around.
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News