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re: Staining or finishing an antique wood piece? Bumped for advice.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 1:33 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Posted on 9/30/16 at 1:33 pm to LSU alum wannabe
I would not stain it. Put a coat of Satin Polyurethane on it to show the grain.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 1:58 pm to CHEDBALLZ
quote:
I would not stain it. Put a coat of Satin Polyurethane on it to show the grain.
Ive stripped it though. It looks terrible IMO. It has taken years of abuse. There are pocks and gouges all over the thing. The middle piece of grain showing through is not representative of what the whole thing looks like.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:00 pm to LSU alum wannabe
The stain looks real dark in some areas. What grit sandpaper did you go up to?
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:05 pm to Sparkplug#1
i used 220 to prep area pre-stain. and a tack cloth of course. we used 120 grit after stripping to smooth everything over, and we used a "mouse" which is just a little black and decker hand sander. Not a belt sander.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:17 pm to LSU alum wannabe
If you heart set on staining it Minwax makes a pre stain conditioner. I would apply that first. Then go with the color that you like best. Remember stain only stains the wood, it doesn't protect it or give it a shine. If you want it to be protected and have a shine I'd stain it then go with a couple coats of poly.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:19 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Seems like in the real dark area on the left side, the grain is sticking up which will absorb more stain than a horizontal grain. That is what usually makes it darker. Hard to tell from just a picture, though. You could try 320 grit if that bothers you. Also, if you use a clear finish like a simple wipe on poly (or any clear finish), the wood will darken naturally over time.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:23 pm to CHEDBALLZ
quote:
If you heart set on staining it Minwax makes a pre stain conditioner. I would apply that first. Then go with the color that you like best. Remember stain only stains the wood, it doesn't protect it or give it a shine. If you want it to be protected and have a shine I'd stain it then go with a couple coats of poly.
Got all of that.
I preconditioned the wood. I just think that spot was a bit thick and wiped off the excess last? Or maybe hit it too thin with preconditioner?
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:24 pm to CHEDBALLZ
Could be because those pieces of pine are straight grain. Again, hard to tell from pics.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:30 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Wipe in straight lines trying not to overlap too much. Some wood I work with is just too hard to get an even stain. If that's the case I spray the stain, finish with a clear or burn the thing to the ground. Lol
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:41 pm to LSU alum wannabe
General Finishes Design Center
Take a look at this link.
I used some of their water based dye stain on a project similar to yours.
Dark blue base coat. Blended the coats in to balance out the grain contrasts.
I think I sprayed a thin clear shellac before adding a gray milk paint. The milk paint was wiped off quickly so that it would only sit in the deeper grain that hadn't completely filled with the shellac.
Finished it off with the clear shellac sealer.
Application video
Take a look at this link.
I used some of their water based dye stain on a project similar to yours.
Dark blue base coat. Blended the coats in to balance out the grain contrasts.
I think I sprayed a thin clear shellac before adding a gray milk paint. The milk paint was wiped off quickly so that it would only sit in the deeper grain that hadn't completely filled with the shellac.
Finished it off with the clear shellac sealer.
Application video
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:55 pm to GeauxDeep
quote:
GeauxDeep
Damn it man!
$50 too late.
But while I have you all here, a side note.
What's a good respirator for a decent price? The pre-stain is no fricking joke. I'm in an open garage with a breeze and that shite ran me out of there.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 2:56 pm to Sparkplug#1
quote:
Wipe in straight
Got it.
quote:
trying not to overlap too much
Guilty.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 3:08 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Sand it first to remove what is there. Then precondition it with an oil based conditioner. This will help make sure the stain is applied evenly. After that stain it, and coat with poly.
I just did this for a set of pipe shelves that turned out really nicely.
I just did this for a set of pipe shelves that turned out really nicely.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 3:26 pm to LSU alum wannabe
quote:
Guilty
You can use a straight edge, but watch out for puddles along the edge. Very thin coats helps. I do it by hand and have mixed results with some species of wood and as I mentioned earlier, and grain directions of a particular board.
Posted on 9/30/16 at 3:36 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Minwax dark walnut is the best color stain IMO.
Posted on 10/18/16 at 2:50 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Bump.
Used the gel Brazilian Rosewood stain with excellent results on drawers and cabinet doors. Problems now with application to larger surfaces. Instructions read to wipe away excess in 3 minutes. Well they mean it. and today with heat and humidity it may dry quicker. Basically it begins to get gummy quickly. Hence it does not wipe away evenly or smoothly. And if you reapply over it it does not darken, but it strips some away. Making the second coat lighter?
As I completed it my technique improved, but one side is unacceptable. After proper amount of time to dry can this stuff be blended? Any thoughts on a fix? What it basically looks like is the worst application with a brush ever performed. Uneven staining and darkness
Used the gel Brazilian Rosewood stain with excellent results on drawers and cabinet doors. Problems now with application to larger surfaces. Instructions read to wipe away excess in 3 minutes. Well they mean it. and today with heat and humidity it may dry quicker. Basically it begins to get gummy quickly. Hence it does not wipe away evenly or smoothly. And if you reapply over it it does not darken, but it strips some away. Making the second coat lighter?
As I completed it my technique improved, but one side is unacceptable. After proper amount of time to dry can this stuff be blended? Any thoughts on a fix? What it basically looks like is the worst application with a brush ever performed. Uneven staining and darkness
Posted on 10/18/16 at 2:58 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Stain. Bring out the beauty in the wood, not cover it up.
Posted on 10/18/16 at 3:48 pm to LSU alum wannabe
You can try this, its helped me. Get an old sock and some mineral spirits and wipe it. Wring the sock so its damp. You want long strokes over the entire piece. The problem with gel stains is you have to put it on really thick, work it around and immediately wipe it turning the cloth to a clean area until it doesnt pick anything up.
When you go to finish it i would suggest a wipe on poly. It requires more coats but you get a smoother finish. I would suggest putting three coats then take 400 grit paper. Not much pressure and just a quick wipe in one direction. Run your hand over it. If you feel bumps do another pass. Then wipe it clean with mineral spirits, let it dry for about 5-10 minutes then more poly coats.
I refinished my kitchen cabinets, bathroom cabinets and a few other things and that is the best system i have come up with. I hate paint on poly for anything other than large flat surfaces because it can pool up in corners and look like crap
When you go to finish it i would suggest a wipe on poly. It requires more coats but you get a smoother finish. I would suggest putting three coats then take 400 grit paper. Not much pressure and just a quick wipe in one direction. Run your hand over it. If you feel bumps do another pass. Then wipe it clean with mineral spirits, let it dry for about 5-10 minutes then more poly coats.
I refinished my kitchen cabinets, bathroom cabinets and a few other things and that is the best system i have come up with. I hate paint on poly for anything other than large flat surfaces because it can pool up in corners and look like crap
Posted on 10/18/16 at 4:16 pm to LSU alum wannabe
If I were doing that piece, I would try to mask the strips of wood. No stain on darkest, heavy stain on lightest (leave it on longer before wiping), then try to blend the in-between colors. I have had luck this way, but I am crazy, so I'll try anything. And I do like the wipe-on poly.
Disclaimer: I am not an expert woodworker, but I have stripped and redone a few antique pieces. Just don't rush it.
Disclaimer: I am not an expert woodworker, but I have stripped and redone a few antique pieces. Just don't rush it.
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