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Started By
Message
Tips and best practices for removing drywall, mold remediation
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:16 am
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:16 am
Things you will need:
Heavy duty trash bags
Dust masks
Work gloves
Flat bar
Straight edge/Level
Measuring tape
Skil saw
Oscillating saw
Hammer
Pry bar
Razor knife and extra blades
See thread for where to cut.
Generally, in 4' increments, but if over 6', remove entire sheet.
Lowe's and HD in Covington have plenty of supplies. I expect that will change shortly, just an FYI.
From Stout:
By the way OP, if after all of this you have some mold to deal with and do it yourself, don't listen to the OT and/or people and us bleach and kilz. Use an actual antimicrobial (search microban on ebay) and Zinsser makes some mold blocking primer. The mold you will most likely deal with won't be toxic but you can get a test kit to be sure.
If it is toxic, you may want to get a company like Servpro to come in with their equipment to truly remove all of the mold spores. There are nightmare stories of people not blocking off the original room with the mold and running the proper HEPA filters and mold spores spread throughout the house bothering people for months even though no mold was visible.
I have posted this before for those that DIY on the mold but the best way to go about it is to remove any contaminated drywall and insulation, treat the studs or ceiling joist with an antimicrobial, let them dry out completely, add a mold blocking primer, then put back new insulation and drywall. A mold remediation company will do all of this plus run an air scrubber and dehumidifiers to remove all mold spores. You can try to simulate this using HEPA filters inside air purifiers and a store bought dehumidifier.
From Fishfighter:
First, remove a molding. Past a knife at the top if there is silicone. Use a flat bar prybar. DO NOT PULL THE NAILS. Use something to pull the nails out from the BACK SIDE. Once removed, hose them off and PUT THEM IN THE SHADE to dry. They can be reused.
Once you remove the old rock and insulation on the outer walls, get a bunch of fans, run a genset and let them blow thru out the house. That will help speed up drying studs.
Another thing. Turn off all power. Remove all wall socket cover plates. Put screws in a ziplok bag. Remove all plugs if water covered them and trash them. They need to be replaced.
Carpet and padding, floating wood floors, just rip them up, they are trash now.
Cabinets, remove everything from them. Remove doors, but before doing so, take a piece of masking tape and number them from were they come from. A piece of tape on the cabinet too. Ziplock for screws. You will have to remove them. There should be screws that are screwed into wall studs. If you need to remove the counter top, at each end, there will be screws at the corners. If and when you do remove the bases, you will have to unhook the plumbing. Just turn off the water if there is a water valve. Once everything is removed, take a rag and plug up were the drain is at the wall. arse gas will come in the house if you don't.
There is some much more for recovery. I will be more then happy to help or point y'all in the right direction for the people that plan on doing it themselves.
See thread for drywall removal process.
Heavy duty trash bags
Dust masks
Work gloves
Flat bar
Straight edge/Level
Measuring tape
Skil saw
Oscillating saw
Hammer
Pry bar
Razor knife and extra blades
See thread for where to cut.
Generally, in 4' increments, but if over 6', remove entire sheet.
Lowe's and HD in Covington have plenty of supplies. I expect that will change shortly, just an FYI.
From Stout:
By the way OP, if after all of this you have some mold to deal with and do it yourself, don't listen to the OT and/or people and us bleach and kilz. Use an actual antimicrobial (search microban on ebay) and Zinsser makes some mold blocking primer. The mold you will most likely deal with won't be toxic but you can get a test kit to be sure.
If it is toxic, you may want to get a company like Servpro to come in with their equipment to truly remove all of the mold spores. There are nightmare stories of people not blocking off the original room with the mold and running the proper HEPA filters and mold spores spread throughout the house bothering people for months even though no mold was visible.
I have posted this before for those that DIY on the mold but the best way to go about it is to remove any contaminated drywall and insulation, treat the studs or ceiling joist with an antimicrobial, let them dry out completely, add a mold blocking primer, then put back new insulation and drywall. A mold remediation company will do all of this plus run an air scrubber and dehumidifiers to remove all mold spores. You can try to simulate this using HEPA filters inside air purifiers and a store bought dehumidifier.
From Fishfighter:
First, remove a molding. Past a knife at the top if there is silicone. Use a flat bar prybar. DO NOT PULL THE NAILS. Use something to pull the nails out from the BACK SIDE. Once removed, hose them off and PUT THEM IN THE SHADE to dry. They can be reused.
Once you remove the old rock and insulation on the outer walls, get a bunch of fans, run a genset and let them blow thru out the house. That will help speed up drying studs.
Another thing. Turn off all power. Remove all wall socket cover plates. Put screws in a ziplok bag. Remove all plugs if water covered them and trash them. They need to be replaced.
Carpet and padding, floating wood floors, just rip them up, they are trash now.
Cabinets, remove everything from them. Remove doors, but before doing so, take a piece of masking tape and number them from were they come from. A piece of tape on the cabinet too. Ziplock for screws. You will have to remove them. There should be screws that are screwed into wall studs. If you need to remove the counter top, at each end, there will be screws at the corners. If and when you do remove the bases, you will have to unhook the plumbing. Just turn off the water if there is a water valve. Once everything is removed, take a rag and plug up were the drain is at the wall. arse gas will come in the house if you don't.
There is some much more for recovery. I will be more then happy to help or point y'all in the right direction for the people that plan on doing it themselves.
See thread for drywall removal process.
This post was edited on 8/15/16 at 7:00 am
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:20 am to VetteGuy
Hope this isn't for you. I used a big level or carpenters angle to cut along so the cut was straight. Cut a couple of inches above at a time until it is bone dry.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:21 am to VetteGuy
4 feet seems to be the common answer. I suggest learning how to take out the sheetrock in large sections instead of just pounding on it. Makes life a lot easier in the long run. take pics btw for ins.
if water is low may work at 3 feet. get as many fans as you can
if water is low may work at 3 feet. get as many fans as you can
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:22 am to jeffsdad
Make sure you have cut power at your main breaker. Video and photos before anything else.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:23 am to jbgleason
No, but it is for people close to me.
About to do work...
Straight edge is good idea.
About to do work...
Straight edge is good idea.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:23 am to VetteGuy
I would think all of those would be helpful. I think it was Wick yesterday that said that insurance generally wants 2ft, 4ft, or 8ft fromt eh floor depending on the depth of water. I would knock some holes at varying heights until I found dry insulation and then go to the next highest increment.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:24 am to jeffsdad
We cut the bottom sheet of drywall in Katrina. I guess roughly 4'. Took a skilsaw and straight edge. Had a large pry bar to peel up wood floors. Any nails that were left in the subfloor, we used hammers or the pry bar to pull them out. Pulled out the insulation and sprayed everything with a bleach solution. I have panel in my living room and I would think we need to pull that all down now.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:24 am to VetteGuy
If you have a piece of 1x4 screw it into the wall level horizontally screw it onto the wall on the bottom. Hold a skill saw against set to the depth of your dry wall and run it along the wall. Do it 2' increments.
This post was edited on 8/14/16 at 1:06 pm
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:25 am to Spankum
Isn't there a tool like a dremel-type deal that you could cut with?
I am thinking of drawing a line and then just cutting.
I am thinking of drawing a line and then just cutting.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:26 am to VetteGuy
I had a rental property flood in Monroe back in March. I'm telling you what every contractor or anyone with knowledge will tell you.
If it gets above your baseboards, you might as well ripped the whole 4' piece out. It's actually harder on the person floating the Sheetrock later on if you try to just cut out the wet piece. Sheetrock is not that expensive, making them spend extra time measuring and cutting is.
If it gets above your baseboards, you might as well ripped the whole 4' piece out. It's actually harder on the person floating the Sheetrock later on if you try to just cut out the wet piece. Sheetrock is not that expensive, making them spend extra time measuring and cutting is.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:30 am to VetteGuy
You can go to harbor freight & get an oscillating saw for 19.00 but skills as is faster
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:31 am to HarrisLetsRide
OK, got it.
What if it's like 5' from floor?
Just remove all 8'?
What if it's like 5' from floor?
Just remove all 8'?
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:33 am to Cracker
If you use a Skil saw, set the blade depth shallow so as not to cut wires/pipes, etc.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:35 am to QuietTiger
man, would i damage up some stuff....but thats me
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:37 am to VetteGuy
the idea of nailing up a 1"X4" to use as a template and then running along it with a skill saw sounds to me like the best idea I have heard....that is what I would do.
may score it first with a carpet knife just to keep the cut clean.
ETA: if you find water 5' from the floor, I would take it down to the ceiling...no point in trying to cut and install half sheets.
may score it first with a carpet knife just to keep the cut clean.
ETA: if you find water 5' from the floor, I would take it down to the ceiling...no point in trying to cut and install half sheets.
This post was edited on 8/14/16 at 10:42 am
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:39 am to Spankum
I supposing the cleaner the cut the better it will be when adding back the sheetrock...?
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:40 am to Spankum
I've see. Some wonders done with bad gaps between dry wall. If it isn't super straight, they can mud/tape it to not be noticeable.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:41 am to VetteGuy
quote:
Best tools for removing drywall
The Mexicans from the Home Depot parking lot.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:42 am to Cracker
quote:
get an oscillating saw for 19.00
If you can find one I'd get one of these too, will come in very handy at internal corners and near window/door casings.
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