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Message
Really hate dealing with car dealerships!
Posted on 7/24/12 at 4:29 pm
Posted on 7/24/12 at 4:29 pm
Trying to get the best price on a 2012 Highlander Limited for my wife. Trying to do everything on the internet, and some of these emails I get back look real good, until you see all the fine print like that they are using EVERY rebate available, etc.
Best I've gotten so far is for one with everything except running boards (which the wife doesn't want), top cross bars, and special exhaust tip...for $36,300 + TTL
Anyone bought one lately?
Best I've gotten so far is for one with everything except running boards (which the wife doesn't want), top cross bars, and special exhaust tip...for $36,300 + TTL
Anyone bought one lately?
Posted on 7/24/12 at 4:32 pm to Kingwood Tiger
quote:
Really hate dealing with car dealerships!
Simple solution:
Find the car you want.
Figure out the lowest reasonable price on it. (invoice + 500-1000 dollars)
Walk into the dealership, tell them the car you want, the price you are willing to pay, why that is the max you will pay (because you did your research) and ask them if they would rather make the commission or have the dealer across town make it.
Step 3: profit.
Posted on 7/24/12 at 4:34 pm to TheHiddenFlask
That is basically what I said when I emailed them.
Any idea where to find invoice price?
Any idea where to find invoice price?
Posted on 7/24/12 at 4:37 pm to Kingwood Tiger
Buy one from here. Worth the drive to save almost $4000.
Posted on 7/24/12 at 4:39 pm to LNCHBOX
quote:
Buy one from here. Worth the drive to save almost $4000.
Nice!
Posted on 7/24/12 at 4:46 pm to Kingwood Tiger
ask them all for a drive out price. so you can compare apples to apples.
Posted on 7/24/12 at 5:01 pm to LNCHBOX
quote:
Buy one from here. Worth the drive to save almost $4000.
That one doesn't have Navigation system, so that would add about 2K to it.
I found invoice on KBB, and it showed it to be about 36500, for a similar one.
Posted on 7/24/12 at 5:02 pm to Kingwood Tiger
quote:
Navigation system,
You can buy really nice navs for $200 with updated maps for life. Or an iphone if you don't want to spend the money.
Posted on 7/24/12 at 5:09 pm to wegotdatwood
quote:
You can buy really nice navs for $200 with updated maps for life. Or an iphone if you don't want to spend the money.
That is what I told her....I don't think we need it. I've got an older GPS I use, and I told her we could buy a new one for $200, with the lifetime maps. We would get it in the car if it had lifetime maps, but the guy said you have to pay like $100 for updated discs
Posted on 7/24/12 at 5:18 pm to Kingwood Tiger
Posted on 7/24/12 at 5:28 pm to Kingwood Tiger
quote:
but the guy said you have to pay like $100 for updated discs
Or pay 2k for a nav system. Say you updated once a year (I never had in my 3 year old thing I bought and it's still good for most places)
I doubt you'll drive it for 18 years
Posted on 7/24/12 at 6:21 pm to wegotdatwood
quote:
I doubt you'll drive it for 18 years
My 1998 Chevy Tahoe WILL make it another 4 years. FACT
Posted on 7/24/12 at 7:14 pm to Kingwood Tiger
quote:
Best I've gotten so far is for one with everything except running boards (which the wife doesn't want), top cross bars, and special exhaust tip...for $36,300 + TTL
quote:
I found invoice on KBB, and it showed it to be about 36500, for a similar one
well what are you waiting on?
Posted on 7/24/12 at 7:42 pm to Kingwood Tiger
Posted on 7/24/12 at 7:46 pm to AUCE05
I would just get her a garmin. They are way better then the crappy OEM one.
Posted on 7/25/12 at 8:36 am to GaryMyMan
More steps to getting a better deal ...
3. Never show emotion when negotiating.
4. Never offer or accept the first price.
5. Start off negotiations by saying “that’s not good enough.”
6. Never offer a counter price.
7. Silence is golden. When in doubt, shut up and you will pay less.
8. Know what power you possess by being able to “walk away.”
9. Never negotiate off “MSRP.” The negotiation process should start from the DEALER COST (which is less than INVOICE) price or the WHOLESALE price if purchasing a USED vehicle.
10. Rebates can be deducted from INVOICE price and not MSRP as the dealership will lead you to believe.
11. Know the dealer’s “hold-back” price and what type of incentives that may be offered from the manufacturer or dealership.
12. Don’t discuss a trade-in until you’ve settled on a price for the car you’re buying – each transaction should be separate and not dependent upon one another.
3. Never show emotion when negotiating.
4. Never offer or accept the first price.
5. Start off negotiations by saying “that’s not good enough.”
6. Never offer a counter price.
7. Silence is golden. When in doubt, shut up and you will pay less.
8. Know what power you possess by being able to “walk away.”
9. Never negotiate off “MSRP.” The negotiation process should start from the DEALER COST (which is less than INVOICE) price or the WHOLESALE price if purchasing a USED vehicle.
10. Rebates can be deducted from INVOICE price and not MSRP as the dealership will lead you to believe.
11. Know the dealer’s “hold-back” price and what type of incentives that may be offered from the manufacturer or dealership.
12. Don’t discuss a trade-in until you’ve settled on a price for the car you’re buying – each transaction should be separate and not dependent upon one another.
Posted on 7/25/12 at 9:09 am to Will Cover
#12 is huge. People don't realize there are really 3 different negotiations of the car deal, and all should be treated as separate:
1) The new car price
2) The trade in value
3) The financing end (negotiating rate, warranty, etc, etc)
Also a great note about silence being golden. If you sit there with no emotion then the salesman could very possibly get diarrhea of the mouth and throw out a great deal. He knows that if you walk away then there is only a 10% chance of you ever stepping foot on that lot again.
1) The new car price
2) The trade in value
3) The financing end (negotiating rate, warranty, etc, etc)
Also a great note about silence being golden. If you sit there with no emotion then the salesman could very possibly get diarrhea of the mouth and throw out a great deal. He knows that if you walk away then there is only a 10% chance of you ever stepping foot on that lot again.
Posted on 7/25/12 at 9:37 am to mglsu21
18. The “If I” sales tactic. This is the last step in the sales negotiation process. Ex. If I decide to purchase the vehicle today, you have to include free window tinting. If I decide to take the red vehicle instead of the white vehicle, you have to include 5 free oil and tire rotation services. If I decide to purchase the vehicle today, you have to include floor mats at no additional cost. If done correctly, this will allow you to get another “service and/or product” that you normally would not have received and by this time, there is no way will the dealership allow you to “walk” because there is too much time invested between both parties. The dealership knows you are in a buying mode and doesn’t want to run the risk of you becoming a “be back” customer for another dealership since most people buy within 48 hours of stepping onto a dealership’s lot.
19. Put deposits on a “credit card” only. Do NOT pay with a check.
19. Put deposits on a “credit card” only. Do NOT pay with a check.
This post was edited on 7/25/12 at 9:38 am
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