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Kenmore Dryer Question
Posted on 10/27/25 at 8:54 pm
Posted on 10/27/25 at 8:54 pm
figure it's worth a shot to see if anyone can help
Kemore dryer - approx 10-12 years old. Same as Whirlpool Cabario and Maytag Bravio when it was new.
have replaced heating element twice. Maybe 4-5 years ago and again 5 months ago. Not heating again. Assume it's element again and have one ordered. Kind of a pain but going to replace again
My question - should I be looking for something else for this to happen again? I've tested the thermal fuse and other stuff and appears fine. The element was clearly broken each time.
Almost ready to say screw it and get the speed queen dryer to match the washing machine
Kemore dryer - approx 10-12 years old. Same as Whirlpool Cabario and Maytag Bravio when it was new.
have replaced heating element twice. Maybe 4-5 years ago and again 5 months ago. Not heating again. Assume it's element again and have one ordered. Kind of a pain but going to replace again
My question - should I be looking for something else for this to happen again? I've tested the thermal fuse and other stuff and appears fine. The element was clearly broken each time.
Almost ready to say screw it and get the speed queen dryer to match the washing machine
4
Posted on 10/27/25 at 9:40 pm to Stateguy
Have you cleaned out your exhaust pipe? When mine started doing this, I blew out a black garbage bag full.
I’ve since kept my 90s KitchenAid (same as whirlpool/kenmore) alive for 20 years. Have probably replaced the element 5 times, and some burnt wiring, and blown fuses. Couple weeks ago the thing just stopped spinning. Element was on its way out again as were some wires. All to say that I finally got a new Maytag. Looked at getting a matching SQ as well, but from what I’ve read on here the same cost/benefit of the washer isn’t the same as with the dryer.
(Edit was a result of premature submit)
I’ve since kept my 90s KitchenAid (same as whirlpool/kenmore) alive for 20 years. Have probably replaced the element 5 times, and some burnt wiring, and blown fuses. Couple weeks ago the thing just stopped spinning. Element was on its way out again as were some wires. All to say that I finally got a new Maytag. Looked at getting a matching SQ as well, but from what I’ve read on here the same cost/benefit of the washer isn’t the same as with the dryer.
(Edit was a result of premature submit)
This post was edited on 10/27/25 at 9:44 pm
Posted on 10/27/25 at 10:00 pm to meeple
Could say the first time, that lint might have contributed to element failing. Hard to saw that the second time. And I definitely made sure the exhaust was clean after the second time.
Posted on 10/27/25 at 11:02 pm to Stateguy
quote:
Almost ready to say screw it and get the speed queen dryer to match the washing machine
They are great dryers.
Have you tried to Google your problem, see if that gives you some inside. Or talk to an appliance repair guy?
Posted on 10/28/25 at 8:43 am to meeple
quote:
Looked at getting a matching SQ as well, but from what I’ve read on here the same cost/benefit of the washer isn’t the same as with the dryer.
We did same but bought the matching Maytag washer 2 years ago.
I have someone coming right now to work on it after water poured out of the bottom yesterday.
Posted on 10/28/25 at 10:58 am to Stateguy
I've blown 3 thermal fuses in the past 3 months. I'm on my 4th. Everything else tests fine as best as I can tell, but I'm going to replace the thermistor but it does have an Ohm range.
The first fuse may have been attributed to lint build up, I have a long vent longer than spec but its a mid 80s home and it was original. But I cleaned it out 4 weeks ago and its blown 2 more fuses.
So I'm at a loss. It works without the fuse just doesn't heat. With the fuse it works great, so I'm at a loss if its the control board what would cause this.
I'm really hoping its a bad thermistor just not working within normal spec and allowing it to get too hot.
The first fuse may have been attributed to lint build up, I have a long vent longer than spec but its a mid 80s home and it was original. But I cleaned it out 4 weeks ago and its blown 2 more fuses.
So I'm at a loss. It works without the fuse just doesn't heat. With the fuse it works great, so I'm at a loss if its the control board what would cause this.
I'm really hoping its a bad thermistor just not working within normal spec and allowing it to get too hot.
Posted on 10/28/25 at 12:54 pm to baldona
You're in the same boat I am with my Samsung dryer.
Gone through 3 thermal fuses, last thing to try is thermmistor. Replaced it, but the old one seems like it's not really out of typical ohm range (~10 kohms)
I imagine it is going to be the circuit board to fix it.
The high heat setting just gets too hot for thermal trip.
For OP, are you sure the thermal fuse isn't jumped out? Also any shorted wires on heating elements?
Gone through 3 thermal fuses, last thing to try is thermmistor. Replaced it, but the old one seems like it's not really out of typical ohm range (~10 kohms)
I imagine it is going to be the circuit board to fix it.
The high heat setting just gets too hot for thermal trip.
For OP, are you sure the thermal fuse isn't jumped out? Also any shorted wires on heating elements?
Posted on 11/1/25 at 11:56 am to Stateguy
I’ve got a Kenmore, and I’ve burned up two elements, too. For me, and I’d bet you, too, it’s simply not keeping the vent clean from lint buildup. Luckily for me, my buildup spot is right where the vent hose enters the wall, so it’s very easy to reach and clear. Cleaning that lint out about every 4-5 months seems to do the trick at our house. I keep a post-it note inside the cabinet door on which I log the dates I do the cleaning.
If you find yourself in a bind and can’t wait for your new element to be delivered, you can recouple the element where it broke with some needle nosed pliers.
If you find yourself in a bind and can’t wait for your new element to be delivered, you can recouple the element where it broke with some needle nosed pliers.
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