The control board on your fridge is a Jazz board. If ever it acts up. Actually just go now to Amazon and buy a jazz board to have. They are like $25 on Amazon. $150 in the parts stores. That's one of the Units you make a good mark up on. The board is the fail point if ever it gets too cold or not cold enough or gives an error.

The thermistor for the fresh food temp is next to the light and there is no thermal cut off for the lights in that unit. So you already figured it out. The light caused that reading.

Those are good fridges.

This post was edited on 9/22/22 at 9:50 am

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Posted by CAD703X

Liberty Island

Member since Jul 2008

78778 posts

Posted on 9/22/22 at 11:06 am to Napoleon

wasn't expecting you to weigh in but thank you!!

now, the fridge door refuses to shut properly (fridge came with the house so unknown origins here) and we have the exact models at my office and the doors are smooth as silk.

i've tried the following:
- wd40 in the hinge joints
- adjusting the front legs of the fridge so it 'leans' more towards the back
- 'lifting' the door slightly..it seems like the fridges at work (right door..the one with the collapsing thingie in the middle) rise about 1/8" above the pivot when open all the way and a gentle push is all that's needed to get them to close all the way and what i think i observed is the bottom of the door moves downward about 1/8" as its closing.

so, in short, i think this is the reason the fridge gets left open so much. if you don't give it a good push (and my kids never do) and you walk away, you won't even notice its ajar.

any thoughts or remedies? does this sound familiar?

(napoleon will regret replying to me now)