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Cat 6 or Cat6a in new construction home?
Posted on 3/3/22 at 1:17 pm
Posted on 3/3/22 at 1:17 pm
Should I run cat6a in my new house or would cat6 suffice? I don’t have any runs over 100’ from the switch so I’m thinking I can get 10gig speeds with cat6.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 1:23 pm to Simon Gruber
cat5e can do 10Gbps up to 45meters (roughly 150'). Cat 6 can easily do that. I think Cat6 goes out to around 185'.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 2:24 pm to Simon Gruber
quote:
Should I run cat6a in my new house or would cat6 suffice? I don’t have any runs over 100’ from the switch so I’m thinking I can get 10gig speeds with cat6.
If the cost difference is only a few bucks go with 6A.
Which I bet its only like $30-40 per thousand feet.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 2:47 pm to kengel2
quote:
If the cost difference is only a few bucks go with 6A.
Which I bet its only like $30-40 per thousand feet.
When planning for it, really no great reason NOT to choose 6A other than just how overkill it is and how viable Cat5e still is for essentially all practical applications in a residential environment.
Cat6A is much bigger around and a bit more difficult to work with. This isn’t a big deal when you design around this “shortfall.”
You’ll almost certainly never need that spec for anything you do. Won’t hurt at all to have it, though, unless the $100 or so more of parts/cable are going to break you.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 2:48 pm to Simon Gruber
CAT6. In a residential application there is zero reason to purchase CAT6A instead.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 2:56 pm to Hopeful Doc
The cost difference is negligible. My biggest concern is probably the installation issues, bend radius, connections, etc. compared to cat 6.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 3:15 pm to Simon Gruber
I don’t think you need to worry about bend radius for your home unless you have an unusual request/volume of cable or unusual walls.
The biggest thing will be how you enter the “data room” and how you account for the volume of cable coming through the room.
A 3” hole buys you 41 (and this is for plenum, so if anything, this should be conservative because I think plenum will all by a wee bit thicker and less pliable). 2” gives you 18. Design the room right for a 4” drop through conduit, and you can incrementally add on after the fact basically infinitely.
ETA: remark about bend radius. It’s still probably as/more flexible than RG6/coax.
The biggest thing will be how you enter the “data room” and how you account for the volume of cable coming through the room.
A 3” hole buys you 41 (and this is for plenum, so if anything, this should be conservative because I think plenum will all by a wee bit thicker and less pliable). 2” gives you 18. Design the room right for a 4” drop through conduit, and you can incrementally add on after the fact basically infinitely.

ETA: remark about bend radius. It’s still probably as/more flexible than RG6/coax.
This post was edited on 3/3/22 at 3:17 pm
Posted on 3/3/22 at 4:39 pm to Simon Gruber
Cat6 is more than enough for residential applications.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 5:46 pm to kywildcatfanone
Whatever you choose, make sure they run conduit too so you can easily upgrade in the future or add extra runs if need be.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 7:43 pm to VABuckeye
quote:
CAT6. In a residential application there is zero reason to purchase CAT6A instead.
This, we have a good idea of what we're talking about.
No reason to spend the extra $$$, and you are likely not skilled enough to terminate cat6A as it should be, if you are planning to install yourself.
This post was edited on 3/3/22 at 7:44 pm
Posted on 3/3/22 at 8:16 pm to shawnlsu
quote:
No reason to spend the extra $$$, and you are likely not skilled enough to terminate cat6A as it should be, if you are planning to install yourself.
Is it that much harder to terminate?
Posted on 3/3/22 at 8:25 pm to Simon Gruber
Found you a quick difference.
1. Cat6A cable is made and terminated to tighter tolerances than Cat6. This means the copper conductors are twisted tighter. This requires higher specification patch panels, wall jacks, and RJ45 connectors.
2. Cat6A speed is at least 500 MHz. This allows 10 Gbp/s (Gigabits per second) up to 328 feet (100 meters). Cat6 max speed is 250 MHz. Therefore, it only supports 10 Gbp/s to 165 feet (55 meters) under ideal conditions—less in heavy cross talk environments.
3. Cat6A cable often uses thicker copper conductors and jackets. This make installation more difficult and drives up the price.
1. Cat6A cable is made and terminated to tighter tolerances than Cat6. This means the copper conductors are twisted tighter. This requires higher specification patch panels, wall jacks, and RJ45 connectors.
2. Cat6A speed is at least 500 MHz. This allows 10 Gbp/s (Gigabits per second) up to 328 feet (100 meters). Cat6 max speed is 250 MHz. Therefore, it only supports 10 Gbp/s to 165 feet (55 meters) under ideal conditions—less in heavy cross talk environments.
3. Cat6A cable often uses thicker copper conductors and jackets. This make installation more difficult and drives up the price.
Posted on 3/3/22 at 8:27 pm to Simon Gruber
quote:It certainly takes more time.
Is it that much harder to terminate?
Posted on 3/4/22 at 8:33 am to Simon Gruber
Much more detailed/tedious in order to get the benefits out of it over cat6, but in the short distances involved in a residential environment, its not worth it.
A typical do-it-yourselfer wouldn't get any actual improvements in bandwith with 6A.
A typical do-it-yourselfer wouldn't get any actual improvements in bandwith with 6A.
Posted on 3/4/22 at 8:47 am to shawnlsu
Nor would they need it for now and the foreseeable future.
Posted on 3/4/22 at 10:28 am to jdd48
quote:
Whatever you choose, make sure they run conduit too so you can easily upgrade in the future or add extra runs if need be.
You do not need to run conduit in the walls to ensure upgrading or additions. This is a very unnecessary expense.
Oh, and CAT 6 will be fine for a residential application. Cat 6 allows 10G for up to 180' and Cat 6a allows it for up to 330'. Unless your runs are super long, you don't need 6a.
ETA: Sorry, I now see that td1 posted this info already.
This post was edited on 3/4/22 at 10:33 am
Posted on 3/4/22 at 10:52 am to SaintEB
quote:
Cat 6 allows 10G for up to 180'
Yea no kidding. Better question is, how friggin ballin' are some of y'all? How big are y'all's houses?
frick me - throw me a poboy or something, ya boy is poor apparently.
Posted on 3/4/22 at 11:36 am to DoubleDown
The language is typically "up to", so it's very much a YMMV situation. There are a lot of factors that determine whether a given cable will work at a given speed over a given length. Quality of the cable and terminations, environmental factors like interference and heat, whether the devices at both ends of the cable "like" the signals they're seeing.
Also you have to account for 10' of vertical at each end of the run in addition to the horizontal distance which is rarely a straight line. Even a small/average size house might have a run 10+30+50+10 = 100 feet or more, and my guess is there is a lot of cat6 out there that won't do 10G over that distance. According to Fluke's testing, something like 80% of cat6 cable doesn't meet spec. And according to these guys a lot of cat6 doesn't even meet cat5e spec.
Also you have to account for 10' of vertical at each end of the run in addition to the horizontal distance which is rarely a straight line. Even a small/average size house might have a run 10+30+50+10 = 100 feet or more, and my guess is there is a lot of cat6 out there that won't do 10G over that distance. According to Fluke's testing, something like 80% of cat6 cable doesn't meet spec. And according to these guys a lot of cat6 doesn't even meet cat5e spec.
Posted on 3/4/22 at 11:43 am to Korkstand
Which is why you have to purchase the good stuff and the good stuff isn't cheap.
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