- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Permanent LED light strings - best way to hang?
Posted on 12/7/23 at 3:04 pm
Posted on 12/7/23 at 3:04 pm
So I got 2 50' sections that will span the 100' across the front of the house. Then I noticed, what's the bets way to hang these given the flashing displays they can create?
I have the app and have each string entered and both are grouped together.
Do yall recommend version 1 or 2 below?
1- Originate both strings in the middle of the roof line working out to each end.
_________Roof Line___________
End-----------Power Power-----------End
OR
2- Originate string 1 at one end, then originate string 2 next in sequence.
__________Roof Line______________
Power------------End Power--------------End
I'm trying to visualize how the dancing patterns would look for each install? IE, a sweeping sequence of lights that went from power to end and back to power would appear as
1- Middle to outsides and back to middle or
2- Left and middle to middle and right then back to left and middle.
I have the app and have each string entered and both are grouped together.
Do yall recommend version 1 or 2 below?
1- Originate both strings in the middle of the roof line working out to each end.
_________Roof Line___________
End-----------Power Power-----------End
OR
2- Originate string 1 at one end, then originate string 2 next in sequence.
__________Roof Line______________
Power------------End Power--------------End
I'm trying to visualize how the dancing patterns would look for each install? IE, a sweeping sequence of lights that went from power to end and back to power would appear as
1- Middle to outsides and back to middle or
2- Left and middle to middle and right then back to left and middle.
This post was edited on 12/7/23 at 3:37 pm
Posted on 12/7/23 at 6:17 pm to Meauxjeaux
I'd lay the strips out on the lawn in front of the house in the two versions below and run some animations. Pick the one that looks the best.
Posted on 12/7/23 at 6:49 pm to Meauxjeaux
Eh, don't say that. I've done this a time or two. 

Posted on 12/7/23 at 8:23 pm to Lonnie Utah
quote:
I'd lay the strips out on the lawn in front of the house in the two versions below and run some animations. Pick the one that looks the best.
There are a host of controller options. WLED is a very popular one and allows for both of these setups to act the same- you can reverse each segment and have the animations play each way. Granted, you want the “right” way before you permanently install it, but both of these can be right, assuming the controller allows for it (my front lawn has a 50-pixel section running one direction and a 116 pixel section running the opposite, but with the reverse segment option, they basically function as a single segment, and animations “flow” through them to where you’d need to look at the actual cabling to know they are “split.”
Posted on 12/7/23 at 10:08 pm to Hopeful Doc
quote:Came here to post this. Actually it took me a minute to understand OP's dilemma until I remembered not everyone runs WLED.
WLED is a very popular one and allows for both of these setups to act the same- you can reverse each segment and have the animations play each way.

FWIW I put LEDs all around the ceiling in my son's room and the physical wiring is like option 1. All I had to do was reverse one segment like Doc said and his animations flow all the way around the room as expected.
Posted on 12/8/23 at 7:58 am to Korkstand
WLED is awesome. I run it on all my LED's.
The advantage of running option 1 is that you have to "injection points" for your data signal. The advantage of that is if you lose a LED that interrupts the data signal the maximum it can take out is 1/2 your strips/stings. Mine is not run this way (I don't think reversing was an option back when I put mine up). Problems in the data signal early in the segment could potentially take down all of my LED's. I had this happen a couple of years ago. Of course it was at the highest point of my roofline...
quote:
FWIW I put LEDs all around the ceiling in my son's room and the physical wiring is like option 1
The advantage of running option 1 is that you have to "injection points" for your data signal. The advantage of that is if you lose a LED that interrupts the data signal the maximum it can take out is 1/2 your strips/stings. Mine is not run this way (I don't think reversing was an option back when I put mine up). Problems in the data signal early in the segment could potentially take down all of my LED's. I had this happen a couple of years ago. Of course it was at the highest point of my roofline...

This post was edited on 12/8/23 at 8:03 am
Posted on 12/8/23 at 10:00 am to Korkstand
Thanks all, this is great news Because it’s much easier to run power to the one spot in the middle. I’ll get WLED. I just have been testing with the app downloaded with the lights so far.
Posted on 12/8/23 at 10:58 am to Meauxjeaux
quote:
I’ll get WLED.
Don't forget a controller. DiGQuad highly recommended.
Posted on 12/8/23 at 7:07 pm to Lonnie Utah
quote:
DiGQuad
Mine comes Monday. Can’t wait.
How far apart does everyone space their lights? I think I’m going to vinyl j-channel route with pixel lights. I was thinking 3” but now considering moving them closer.
Posted on 12/8/23 at 7:17 pm to ApisMellifera
3" spacing will be fine. I have 30 led/m strips. That's about 1.3 inches apart and only run 1/2 of them (skip ever other led) Honestly at times I think that even at that spacing they are too close.
This post was edited on 12/8/23 at 7:19 pm
Posted on 12/8/23 at 10:15 pm to Lonnie Utah
quote:
DiGQuad
I went with the DigOcta and so far do not regret it (though it took way too long to learn to flip the resistor switch when I had flickering lights, and now I have all these F-amps that I’m not using because it turns out I never really needed them).
Posted on 12/9/23 at 7:29 am to Hopeful Doc
quote:
DigOcta
Didn't even know this existed. Looks awesome, but overkill for my needs. But awesome.
Posted on 12/9/23 at 9:30 am to Lonnie Utah
On a side note, I gave the Chinese communist party unfettered access to my entire life doing this Wi-Fi install, correct?
Posted on 12/9/23 at 9:55 am to Lonnie Utah
quote:
overkill for my needs
I’m currently running 4 channels
100 pixels on the front of my house
100 on the side
117 in the side yard
50 more in the side yard (flower bed outline)
I’ll adding 50-60 to outline flower beds in my front yard on one side, 75-100 on the other
I also ordered an additional 500 of the 12mm bullets. I plan on wrapping garland and 4 small (3-4’) Christmas trees in them.
Effect wise, I’m mostly just mimicking boring Christmas lights patterns (warm white, bright white, RW, RWG, RG, multicolor and cycling through them every 10 minutes in sync.
Eventually I’ll add leaping arches and some props in the front yard.
It’s pretty addictive, and channels can fill up quick (though I could reconfigure and use this for all that if I wanted to be smart about it).
Posted on 12/9/23 at 9:56 am to Meauxjeaux
quote:
gave the Chinese communist party unfettered access to my entire life doing this Wi-Fi install, correct?
You installed it on your separate IOT network and isolated it from your “home” network, right?
Posted on 12/9/23 at 10:03 am to Hopeful Doc
What lights to you order? I’ve been looking at doing something but don’t want to buy the wrong thing.
Posted on 12/9/23 at 11:15 am to ShrevetownTiger
AliExpress link for 12mm 12v pixels
Link to AliExpress for c9-like 12v.
As you may be able to see, I like Paulzhang ETOPLED store.
Long story:
Initially bought from HolidayCoro. I have ZERO negatives to say about them. And they ship hella fast. The 200 pixels that outline my roof and the mounting strips that I use come from them. But they’re $1/pixel, and these are a bit cheaper and still have compatible xconnect pigtails. And I wanted to buy 500 of each type. They probably have better quality control than China, but I’m willing to take the risk.
I’m now sort of locked into this “strawberry” bulb for c9. It’s not my favorite. The pixabulb form factor is nice. But there are other options out there. If you search on AE for “12v milky c9” or throw “2811” somewhere in there, you’ll find a dozen or so other form factors, essentially all 12mm bullets in a custom case, with an “opaque” or “milky” bulb that I think would look better, but I was unaware of their existence when I started. The view from the road is probably not hugely different, but I just like the way light diffuses through that for my purposes (above- dull, “normal”-looking lights that change colors). I also like the rectangle base option and think those would have other great mounting options, like inside of PVC J-channel or maybe even some could be fit into the HolidayCoro aluminum pixel mount (looks like 1/2” PVC sawed in half and pre-drilled for 12mm nodes, mounts on 1/2” clips and is stiff without sag. I have mild sagging in mine and didn’t put enough J-bolts on my regular old PVC to hang them on my gutters. I have more j bolts in supply for when they come down on Ash Wednesday, but for now it’s noticeable to me. Don’t get me wrong, it looks as good as any other DIY house, but if you have an eye for it, it’s not quite “pro” looking).
So if I were starting over, I don’t want to say that I’d necessarily change form factors, but you should at least know there are at least 3 types of c9 (rectangle flat base, round flat base like mine, and then the “bullet” with wires going up the bottom end), and then you can find frosted/opaque/milky plastic on at least 2 of those. They are all 2811 pixels and will work with any ws2811 pixel controller
I could be wrong; but I think all c9-like ones are 12v. I have not seen many 5v but you may see them. There are lots of 5v 12mm pixels (which is the same pixel inside some of these c9). Just make sure you pick a voltage and stick with it unless you know why that statement is not entirely true; and if you’re choosing a voltage and don’t want to learn, I would recommend 12v over 5v (if you don’t want to learn anymore about it and talk about what that’s also not an absolute truth)
If you want a “fast” setup to toy with, buy a single strand from HolidayCoro- they aren’t terribly expensive (but then you either waste the strand or stick with the form factor), two female and one male pigtails, an Athom WLED controller (the one that says high current or high power. Not the strip controller with r/g/b lanes), and this power supply which can change voltages. I’d probably order 12mm nodes from them, and then this is eventually a fun setup for a tiny (3-4’) christmas tree (indoors) or a yard prop with a new power supply and a box.
Then when you get into outdoor stuff, you want a larger DC landscaping transformer to run power all over +/- a better controller (shout out DrZ diguno/quad/octa)
Link to AliExpress for c9-like 12v.
As you may be able to see, I like Paulzhang ETOPLED store.
Long story:
Initially bought from HolidayCoro. I have ZERO negatives to say about them. And they ship hella fast. The 200 pixels that outline my roof and the mounting strips that I use come from them. But they’re $1/pixel, and these are a bit cheaper and still have compatible xconnect pigtails. And I wanted to buy 500 of each type. They probably have better quality control than China, but I’m willing to take the risk.
I’m now sort of locked into this “strawberry” bulb for c9. It’s not my favorite. The pixabulb form factor is nice. But there are other options out there. If you search on AE for “12v milky c9” or throw “2811” somewhere in there, you’ll find a dozen or so other form factors, essentially all 12mm bullets in a custom case, with an “opaque” or “milky” bulb that I think would look better, but I was unaware of their existence when I started. The view from the road is probably not hugely different, but I just like the way light diffuses through that for my purposes (above- dull, “normal”-looking lights that change colors). I also like the rectangle base option and think those would have other great mounting options, like inside of PVC J-channel or maybe even some could be fit into the HolidayCoro aluminum pixel mount (looks like 1/2” PVC sawed in half and pre-drilled for 12mm nodes, mounts on 1/2” clips and is stiff without sag. I have mild sagging in mine and didn’t put enough J-bolts on my regular old PVC to hang them on my gutters. I have more j bolts in supply for when they come down on Ash Wednesday, but for now it’s noticeable to me. Don’t get me wrong, it looks as good as any other DIY house, but if you have an eye for it, it’s not quite “pro” looking).
So if I were starting over, I don’t want to say that I’d necessarily change form factors, but you should at least know there are at least 3 types of c9 (rectangle flat base, round flat base like mine, and then the “bullet” with wires going up the bottom end), and then you can find frosted/opaque/milky plastic on at least 2 of those. They are all 2811 pixels and will work with any ws2811 pixel controller
I could be wrong; but I think all c9-like ones are 12v. I have not seen many 5v but you may see them. There are lots of 5v 12mm pixels (which is the same pixel inside some of these c9). Just make sure you pick a voltage and stick with it unless you know why that statement is not entirely true; and if you’re choosing a voltage and don’t want to learn, I would recommend 12v over 5v (if you don’t want to learn anymore about it and talk about what that’s also not an absolute truth)
If you want a “fast” setup to toy with, buy a single strand from HolidayCoro- they aren’t terribly expensive (but then you either waste the strand or stick with the form factor), two female and one male pigtails, an Athom WLED controller (the one that says high current or high power. Not the strip controller with r/g/b lanes), and this power supply which can change voltages. I’d probably order 12mm nodes from them, and then this is eventually a fun setup for a tiny (3-4’) christmas tree (indoors) or a yard prop with a new power supply and a box.
Then when you get into outdoor stuff, you want a larger DC landscaping transformer to run power all over +/- a better controller (shout out DrZ diguno/quad/octa)
Popular
Back to top
