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re: PC case fan config
Posted on 12/29/20 at 6:27 pm to reauxl tigers
Posted on 12/29/20 at 6:27 pm to reauxl tigers
Push vs pull us purely a function of case allowance and aesthetics. My guess is that you will prefer how it looks in push, assuming your case is good for it.
Posted on 12/29/20 at 6:30 pm to Joshjrn
To say it another way, I’m curious what your temps look like keeping all of your fans oriented exactly as they are now as far as intake and exhaust, but putting your rad on the top. My guess is that your cpu temp is going to jump about 5C and your gpu will drop about 1-2C, but that’s just my taking a shot in the dark.
But, I would be curious to know what your other temps (RAM, etc) look like with the increased air flow, as well.
But, I would be curious to know what your other temps (RAM, etc) look like with the increased air flow, as well.
Posted on 12/29/20 at 8:33 pm to Joshjrn
Alright. I will try a couple of those things and post any results.
Posted on 12/29/20 at 8:45 pm to reauxl tigers
But yeah, I have an o11xl with intake from the top and bottom (360 rad on top) and exhaust out of the side bank, so I get into unusual fan configurations. Again, not that yours is in any way unusual, but I enjoy fricking around with it 

Posted on 12/29/20 at 8:53 pm to reauxl tigers
Anyway, to put a more concise thought process on it, being I've been all over the place:
Your case sounds like it's choking for air, which is causing negative pressure. You could shut down exhaust fans, like you did, but that means you're getting less air flow, because you're not increasing intake, but you're no longer going to get air sucking in through holes in the case, which is unfiltered airflow, but airflow nonetheless.
If your cpu temps can handle it, I think moving your rad to the top, and keeping all of your fans oriented the same (front is still intake, top and back are still exhaust) will significantly increase your airflow for your entire system, reduce dust intake, and probably allow you to slow your fans down a bit if noise is an issue. But ultimately, that's all in theory. Every case ecosystem is its own animal. Run stress test benchmarks, take notes on all your temps, and enjoy yourself. Hell, this kind of nitpicky bullshite is half the fun of diy pc building
If you need any tips on benching software, monitoring software, etc, just let me know. But if you can handle an oc, I assume you've got that already.
Your case sounds like it's choking for air, which is causing negative pressure. You could shut down exhaust fans, like you did, but that means you're getting less air flow, because you're not increasing intake, but you're no longer going to get air sucking in through holes in the case, which is unfiltered airflow, but airflow nonetheless.
If your cpu temps can handle it, I think moving your rad to the top, and keeping all of your fans oriented the same (front is still intake, top and back are still exhaust) will significantly increase your airflow for your entire system, reduce dust intake, and probably allow you to slow your fans down a bit if noise is an issue. But ultimately, that's all in theory. Every case ecosystem is its own animal. Run stress test benchmarks, take notes on all your temps, and enjoy yourself. Hell, this kind of nitpicky bullshite is half the fun of diy pc building

If you need any tips on benching software, monitoring software, etc, just let me know. But if you can handle an oc, I assume you've got that already.
This post was edited on 12/29/20 at 8:54 pm
Posted on 12/29/20 at 11:44 pm to Joshjrn
Here's what I've got from just a small sample size. Fan speeds were the same for both instances. (2 minute stress tests)
Front mounted
CPU: 68C max load
GPU: 65C max load
Top mounted
CPU: 72-73C max load
GPU: 63-64C max load
Looks like you were right on. I know 2 minutes isn't long but being that I can stay below 65C on my GPU under load gaming for hours, I figured it was long enough. I also only had the GPU fans running at 50%, I usually bump it up to 70% or so when playing games. Now my CPU did hit 76C after about 6 or 7 minutes at max load and fans at full blast. It is OCd to 5Ghz at 1.4v so really that's not that bad considering the only time I get it that hot is when stress testing it. I'll probably end up getting some Noctuas for the radiator either way. Good news is the incense test went great. No negative pressure anywhere, looks like the front fans are moving a lot more air as well.
Front mounted
CPU: 68C max load
GPU: 65C max load
Top mounted
CPU: 72-73C max load
GPU: 63-64C max load
Looks like you were right on. I know 2 minutes isn't long but being that I can stay below 65C on my GPU under load gaming for hours, I figured it was long enough. I also only had the GPU fans running at 50%, I usually bump it up to 70% or so when playing games. Now my CPU did hit 76C after about 6 or 7 minutes at max load and fans at full blast. It is OCd to 5Ghz at 1.4v so really that's not that bad considering the only time I get it that hot is when stress testing it. I'll probably end up getting some Noctuas for the radiator either way. Good news is the incense test went great. No negative pressure anywhere, looks like the front fans are moving a lot more air as well.

This post was edited on 12/30/20 at 3:43 am
Posted on 12/30/20 at 3:32 am to reauxl tigers
My knowledge on fans only goes so far. If you had to choose between these fans for the radiator which would you choose? Would any of them be much different in terms of cooling? As long as I have a top mounted rad, do the fans even matter as much?
Fan 1
CFM: 55
SP: 2.60
Fan 2
CFM: 87.6
SP: 2.30
Fan 3
CFM: 75
SP: 4.20
Fan 1
CFM: 55
SP: 2.60
Fan 2
CFM: 87.6
SP: 2.30
Fan 3
CFM: 75
SP: 4.20
This post was edited on 12/30/20 at 3:42 am
Posted on 12/30/20 at 9:56 am to reauxl tigers
quote:
My knowledge on fans only goes so far. If you had to choose between these fans for the radiator which would you choose? Would any of them be much different in terms of cooling? As long as I have a top mounted rad, do the fans even matter as much?
Assuming you're keeping the case front panel on, I would be inclined to go SP both for the top and front. The top because of the rad and the front because of that super choky front panel. But that's, as I've mentioned a few times, in theory.
Reality can be a different animal.
The important thing to remember about standard cooling (so either air or aio, not aio using ice water, etc) is that you can never cool anything below the temperature of the air you're moving over it. That's just how physics works. So when you're considering fans and whether they will help, think of this thought experiment:
Let's say you have your rad, but instead of having air pass freely through it, you gate the air, and only open the gates to replace the trapped air every X Seconds. If you go from five minutes to 30 seconds, you'll see a huge improvement. But if you go from two seconds to one second, you probably aren't going to see much change, because the air probably didn't reach equilibrium with the temp of your rad in that time period, anyway.
Now, that's a silly thought experiment, but it illustrates the point that, once you reach a certain point, moving more air, or faster air, across a heatsink won't give you much, if any, better performance. The trick is finding that point.
GN ran thermal results on aios a while back, focusing on fan normalized performance, and something jumped out at me: for every aio, 25% fan speed had super high temps. When you bumped to 50%, the temperature dropped significantly, generally 5-15 degrees. But when you bumped up to 75%? Maybe a degree. To 100%? Maybe one more. To give you an example, one aio was 81 - 74 - 72 - 71. Once you reached a certain threshold, moving the air faster just didn't matter a ton.
Now, none of that mattered when your rad was your intake, because you needed as much air as possible, regardless, Now that it's exhaust, you only need what you need. And here's where it starts to matter whether you're price conscious. If you aren't particularly price sensitive, buy six static pressure fans, slap them on there, and see where they take you. If you are, I would buy three. Put them on the front intake; put them on the top exhaust. See what your temps do. Put your hand behind your intake and above your rad and see if you can feel any difference in the amount of air moving. Just like with moving the rad, it's all about figuring out the best scenario for your specific usage case.
As for which fans, those numbers are going to be meaningless, assuming they came from different manufacturers, as they all have different methodologies. If they are from the same company, I would probably lean towards Fan 3 in a vacuum, but that's ignoring aesthetics, noise, vibration, etc. Fans are something that I spend very little time looking at stats for and focus far more on trusted reviewers whose methodology I trust.
Posted on 12/30/20 at 10:04 am to reauxl tigers
quote:
Looks like you were right on. I know 2 minutes isn't long but being that I can stay below 65C on my GPU under load gaming for hours, I figured it was long enough. I also only had the GPU fans running at 50%, I usually bump it up to 70% or so when playing games. Now my CPU did hit 76C after about 6 or 7 minutes at max load and fans at full blast. It is OCd to 5Ghz at 1.4v so really that's not that bad considering the only time I get it that hot is when stress testing it. I'll probably end up getting some Noctuas for the radiator either way. Good news is the incense test went great. No negative pressure anywhere, looks like the front fans are moving a lot more air as well.
Glad my dart throw hit pretty close to the mark

And yeah, full stress tests are brutal, especially if this is a gaming rig. With standard usage configuration (case fully closed, fans where I normally have them, which is static at about 65% pwm) my cpu maxes out at about 65C during stress testing. During gaming? I think the hottest I've ever gotten it was 55C, and those are temporary spikes. It normally sits around the high 40s (I'm significantly overcooling my cpu right now, planning to upgrade in a year or so). There's nothing wrong with cooling to your worst case scenario, but when you have an imperfect scenario (I know I keep picking on your case, but...) you're going to have to make some concession somewhere, so you're usually better off finding the good for your usage case instead of chasing the perfect.
This post was edited on 12/30/20 at 10:06 am
Posted on 12/30/20 at 12:54 pm to Joshjrn
quote:This caught my eye because I just looked at a chart that seems to describe the same concept.
GN ran thermal results on aios a while back, focusing on fan normalized performance, and something jumped out at me: for every aio, 25% fan speed had super high temps. When you bumped to 50%, the temperature dropped significantly, generally 5-15 degrees. But when you bumped up to 75%? Maybe a degree. To 100%? Maybe one more. To give you an example, one aio was 81 - 74 - 72 - 71. Once you reached a certain threshold, moving the air faster just didn't matter a ton.

quote:I have this problem every time I want to upgrade something in my PC. I get consumed with all the #s and stats and sometimes try too hard to be perfect.
you're usually better off finding the good for your usage case instead of chasing the perfect.

This post was edited on 12/30/20 at 12:57 pm
Posted on 12/30/20 at 1:24 pm to reauxl tigers
The important thing is to remember that your pc is a system, and I mean that in the scientific sense. Everything is connected.
As an example, according to GN, the 3xxx FE cooler is inferior to the AIB coolers. But I knew the system I wanted to build. I knew where I wanted the air to go. And I was pretty sure that Steve testing on a bench wasn’t going to be real world for me in an aquarium o11xl, and that the half blower style would matter. Jay did a review later and found that the FE cooler performs like gangbusters in closed case ecosystems.
Everything is connected. If you try to chase individual stats, you’ll pay more and get nothing out of it. The system is what’s important, not the individual component stats.
As an example, according to GN, the 3xxx FE cooler is inferior to the AIB coolers. But I knew the system I wanted to build. I knew where I wanted the air to go. And I was pretty sure that Steve testing on a bench wasn’t going to be real world for me in an aquarium o11xl, and that the half blower style would matter. Jay did a review later and found that the FE cooler performs like gangbusters in closed case ecosystems.
Everything is connected. If you try to chase individual stats, you’ll pay more and get nothing out of it. The system is what’s important, not the individual component stats.
This post was edited on 12/30/20 at 1:26 pm
Posted on 12/31/20 at 2:09 pm to Joshjrn
I think I've settled on fans, all Noctuas.
140mm NF A14 in the rear
120mm Nf A12x25s on the rad
moving the current fans on the rad to the front b/c they're actually pretty good.
Might get some Nf f12s for the front later on or for a push/pull if I wanna switch it up.
140mm NF A14 in the rear
120mm Nf A12x25s on the rad
moving the current fans on the rad to the front b/c they're actually pretty good.
Might get some Nf f12s for the front later on or for a push/pull if I wanna switch it up.
Posted on 12/31/20 at 4:17 pm to reauxl tigers
Great fans; hopefully one day Noctua will choose a new color scheme
And your rad isn't thick enough to need to go push/pull. I mean, it won't hurt anything, but it won't help anything, either.
Definitely looking forward to hearing what your fan curve and temps are like when you're all done

And your rad isn't thick enough to need to go push/pull. I mean, it won't hurt anything, but it won't help anything, either.
Definitely looking forward to hearing what your fan curve and temps are like when you're all done

Posted on 11/3/24 at 9:19 pm to reauxl tigers
*4 years later*
Going to be testing the NF-A14x25s and either Phantek T30s or the Lian Li P28s on the front intake soon. Yes I'm still using this exact setup aside from a few hardware upgrades.
Still have A12-25s on the rad and stock fans on the front intake.
Going to be testing the NF-A14x25s and either Phantek T30s or the Lian Li P28s on the front intake soon. Yes I'm still using this exact setup aside from a few hardware upgrades.

Still have A12-25s on the rad and stock fans on the front intake.
This post was edited on 11/4/24 at 12:53 am
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