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1
Posted on 4/13/16 at 7:48 am to bbap
also do they sell any smart dimmers that come with a round dimming knob?
For example:
For example:
Posted on 4/13/16 at 8:38 am to bbap
There are 3 types of dimmers:
$10 old school rotary/analog dimmers that mostly work with newer LED bulbs these days like your pic
$30+ LED dimmers which are fancier versions of the old rotary dimmer but typically have the large rectangle switch and sometimes have tiny LED lights under the paddle to look even fancier. They were better at dimming LED bulbs then the analog but this isn't such a big deal anymore since LED bulbs are getting much better at dimming on regular switches.
$50+ connected LED dimmers. Same as above but have some type of antenna and ability to get/send a simple on/off and dim command to a mother hub.
In the case of #3 above that tiny computer has to be powered on at all times. This is accomplished most of the time by the good old wiring standard known as the common.
The common wire is almost never used for normal boring mechanical switches which merely interrupt the circuit/juice when you flip them on or off.
As a result typically those common wires are in the back of the box.. A bunch of white wires twisted together with a big arse red wire cap. To tap into that your smart switch should come with a little wire sticking out of it (or make one yourself) then unscrew the cap and CAREFULLY add the new wire to the party and screw the wire cap back on.... Pull on your new wire afterwards to make damn sure it's in there tight.
Some houses or wiring do not have this.. The wires are in a Romex sheath with only a bare ground, line and load. You can easily tell if there are three wires plus a ground in the sheath (includes common) or only 2 plus a ground.
In the later situation you are screwed on most fancy connected switches.
$10 old school rotary/analog dimmers that mostly work with newer LED bulbs these days like your pic
$30+ LED dimmers which are fancier versions of the old rotary dimmer but typically have the large rectangle switch and sometimes have tiny LED lights under the paddle to look even fancier. They were better at dimming LED bulbs then the analog but this isn't such a big deal anymore since LED bulbs are getting much better at dimming on regular switches.
$50+ connected LED dimmers. Same as above but have some type of antenna and ability to get/send a simple on/off and dim command to a mother hub.
In the case of #3 above that tiny computer has to be powered on at all times. This is accomplished most of the time by the good old wiring standard known as the common.
The common wire is almost never used for normal boring mechanical switches which merely interrupt the circuit/juice when you flip them on or off.
As a result typically those common wires are in the back of the box.. A bunch of white wires twisted together with a big arse red wire cap. To tap into that your smart switch should come with a little wire sticking out of it (or make one yourself) then unscrew the cap and CAREFULLY add the new wire to the party and screw the wire cap back on.... Pull on your new wire afterwards to make damn sure it's in there tight.
Some houses or wiring do not have this.. The wires are in a Romex sheath with only a bare ground, line and load. You can easily tell if there are three wires plus a ground in the sheath (includes common) or only 2 plus a ground.
In the later situation you are screwed on most fancy connected switches.
This post was edited on 4/13/16 at 8:45 am
Posted on 4/13/16 at 8:42 am to CAD703X
So far every gangbox i've opened has neutral white wires in the back. I do know that smart switches need that to work properly.
I'm not worried about the wiring. I just havent seen any smart dimmers with a round knob.
I'm not worried about the wiring. I just havent seen any smart dimmers with a round knob.
Posted on 4/13/16 at 9:16 am to CAD703X
so what is the best smart switch to control a fan where you can manipulate the fan speed? I have read regular light dimmers are not good.
This post was edited on 4/13/16 at 9:17 am
Posted on 4/13/16 at 9:23 am to CarRamrod
i have a regular light dimmer and it works fine. I'm pretty sure if you put it on 12% or on 20% it's not going to change the speed of the fan.
My fan has an off, low, medium, and high. This is pure speculation but i think any percentage below 33% is going to put it on low, 34% - 66% on medium, 67% or higher on High.
but like i said if you switch the percentage and dont cross over any of those thresholds its just going to keep the fan on the same speed.
this is the one i have.
LINK
My fan has an off, low, medium, and high. This is pure speculation but i think any percentage below 33% is going to put it on low, 34% - 66% on medium, 67% or higher on High.
but like i said if you switch the percentage and dont cross over any of those thresholds its just going to keep the fan on the same speed.
this is the one i have.
LINK
This post was edited on 4/13/16 at 9:25 am
Posted on 4/13/16 at 9:27 am to bbap
I use the ge fan control as well. Works great.
Posted on 4/13/16 at 10:13 am to mctiger1985
man i wish all these switches werent 40-45 dollars a pop.
Posted on 4/13/16 at 1:05 pm to bbap
quote:
also do they sell any smart dimmers that come with a round dimming knob?
For example:
I'm guessing the answer to this question is no. Kinda disappointing. I prefer the rotary dimmer.
Posted on 4/13/16 at 1:31 pm to bbap
quote:
I'm guessing the answer to this question is no. Kinda disappointing. I prefer the rotary dimmer.
yeah i havent seen any. its possible some company might release a line of 'retro looking' switches, etc. but given how small this market currently is, i think we'd have to see it take off to justify small niches such as that.
lots of stuff is branded but comes from like 3 or 4 companies.
for instance the homeseer zwave bulb is the same thing as the domitech bulb which is the same thing as the dragontech bulb.
Posted on 4/13/16 at 1:35 pm to CAD703X
so how do dimmers with an up/down arrow work? each time you press it it dims the switch 10% or so?
Posted on 4/13/16 at 1:40 pm to bbap
ge & leviton you just hold the button down and it dims. lutron has 'steps' as well to do what you are talking about and of course, you can hold the button down.
honestly i've never thought about it because those are all being controlled through HA and if i occassionally actually use the switch, its to turn it off.
never actually tried dimming from the switch..sad huh?
eta that's because the main 3 smart dimmers i use control three different sets of floodlights around my house and i cant actually see any of them from the switches' positions inside the house so any 'dimming' is taking place with me in the front or backyard holding my phone.
honestly i've never thought about it because those are all being controlled through HA and if i occassionally actually use the switch, its to turn it off.
never actually tried dimming from the switch..sad huh?
eta that's because the main 3 smart dimmers i use control three different sets of floodlights around my house and i cant actually see any of them from the switches' positions inside the house so any 'dimming' is taking place with me in the front or backyard holding my phone.
This post was edited on 4/13/16 at 1:42 pm
Posted on 4/25/16 at 11:49 am to CAD703X
CAD, have you linked GE switches to the WINK?
I have a GE switch im trying to link. Going to ZWAve switch, the hub starts bliking blue, i make the switch pair, the hub goes green for a bit, then back to solib blue yet the switch doesnt pair. The switch is brand new. What else should i try?
I have a GE switch im trying to link. Going to ZWAve switch, the hub starts bliking blue, i make the switch pair, the hub goes green for a bit, then back to solib blue yet the switch doesnt pair. The switch is brand new. What else should i try?
Posted on 4/25/16 at 5:04 pm to CarRamrod
Tried power cycling the hub? Ive had switches appear after.
Posted on 4/26/16 at 7:48 am to CarRamrod
Go to hub. Look for zwave exclusion and inclusion mode. Set to exclusion mode, then hit up or down (basically have to trigger light on/off-so blue LED should either turn on or off). The hub with flash green. Then in zwave settings click inclusion mode. Once hub starts flashing hit the switch again on/off. Make sure you aren't just "dimming', go by the blue LED. The hub will flash green and inclusion mode will stop. Then in lights youll see " switch".
Posted on 4/26/16 at 10:31 am to CAD703X
ok i gthought i tried that but i didnt try to activate the switch while in the modes. Thanks ill update tonight when im home.
Posted on 4/26/16 at 12:26 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
Thanks ill COME BACK HERE AND THANK CAD tonight when im home.
Posted on 4/26/16 at 3:01 pm to CAD703X
CAD you have a pool huh? Is it automated or do i recall correctly that you had an issue with your switches not having a neutral wire.
I'd like to HA all the pool features. Ability to turn spa on/off, adjust temp, turn waterfall on/off, pool and spa lights on/off, etc. Is this feasible. We don't have the same hub but I figure you might have some insight into the feasibility of this either way.
This is the current control system i have.
LINK
I'd like to HA all the pool features. Ability to turn spa on/off, adjust temp, turn waterfall on/off, pool and spa lights on/off, etc. Is this feasible. We don't have the same hub but I figure you might have some insight into the feasibility of this either way.
This is the current control system i have.
LINK
This post was edited on 4/26/16 at 3:04 pm
Posted on 4/26/16 at 4:45 pm to bbap
my pool pump was a cinch to automate..just installed an intermatic CA3750 outdoor zwave 240/multi-voltage switch.
what you are referring to are some outdoor light switches attached to the rock wall behind my pool i wanted to add a smart dimmer to. the lack of a neutral at that location lead me to a $30 wasted purchase of a small zwave dimmer that lives inside the box behind the switch (but requires neutral).
that device you have looks pretty sophisticated and i would imagine you'd probably want to go through them to see if they offer any type of wifi-add-on that would allow remote control of those options.
the pool pump timer is practically a necessity for me given how far away that thing is from my house and how dangerous it is walking down that hill in the middle of the night in the dark.
what you are referring to are some outdoor light switches attached to the rock wall behind my pool i wanted to add a smart dimmer to. the lack of a neutral at that location lead me to a $30 wasted purchase of a small zwave dimmer that lives inside the box behind the switch (but requires neutral).
that device you have looks pretty sophisticated and i would imagine you'd probably want to go through them to see if they offer any type of wifi-add-on that would allow remote control of those options.
the pool pump timer is practically a necessity for me given how far away that thing is from my house and how dangerous it is walking down that hill in the middle of the night in the dark.
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