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re: Official WINK HUB Home Automation thread
Posted on 3/10/16 at 3:24 pm to CarRamrod
Posted on 3/10/16 at 3:24 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
so HD has to rekey the lock.... damn ok. i was hoping it was a DIY
seriously dude, you don't need a key. i honestly have ZERO idea where my keys are.
set up a few codes and you're good to go. you will know well in advance when the batteries are getting low.
there could be a DIY rekeying tool but the idea of using a key to get into my house these days seems alien to me.
between automated garage doors, 6 people in my house and touchscreen locks, i've all but given up on keys except for my 4runner.
4
Posted on 3/10/16 at 3:33 pm to CAD703X
Only thing i could think of that i want added to my Raptor fob with push button start so i never have to take my key out......Well that, a supercharger, and for it to fondle my balls.
Posted on 3/10/16 at 7:19 pm to CAD703X
Just hooked up a quirky spotter. Seems to work pretty good. Now i can take my leaksmart sensor out the baby's room.
Only cost me an outlink and gocontrol sensor
Only cost me an outlink and gocontrol sensor
This post was edited on 3/10/16 at 9:01 pm
Posted on 3/11/16 at 10:07 pm to CAD703X
So CAD, Got my thermostat in and it is brand spankin new. just an open box.
So i went to install it and there is only 4 wires no C (power)
so should i just go ahead and run an 18/5 wire or do the alternative buy jumping the fan wire as power like this says?
LINK
ETA: well if i have to mess with the furnace wiring i might as well just run i wire up there. It shouldnt be a hard run.
So i went to install it and there is only 4 wires no C (power)
so should i just go ahead and run an 18/5 wire or do the alternative buy jumping the fan wire as power like this says?
quote:
Remove the wire from the G terminal, and connect it to the C terminal.
Using a short piece of 18 AWG wire, make a jumper and connect it between the Y and G terminals (this is only required if you have both heat and central air).
LINK
ETA: well if i have to mess with the furnace wiring i might as well just run i wire up there. It shouldnt be a hard run.
This post was edited on 3/11/16 at 10:10 pm
Posted on 3/11/16 at 10:11 pm to CarRamrod
Are you 100% sure the c wire isn't in the wiring just not hooked up to anything?
Make triple sure it's not there and if it isn't I'll give you my extra add-a-wire kit. It's the only way to go. I'll need your email.
Google venstar add-a-wire video and it will make sense.
Make triple sure it's not there and if it isn't I'll give you my extra add-a-wire kit. It's the only way to go. I'll need your email.
Google venstar add-a-wire video and it will make sense.
Posted on 3/11/16 at 10:13 pm to CAD703X
give me 5 mins to take the panel back off to check
Posted on 3/12/16 at 7:55 am to CarRamrod
About $16
I know the venstar is super easy to install and I'm not familiar with that but from the description it sounds like a similar product.
It's up to you. I'm happy to give you my extra add-a-wire kit but if you want to go with the Honeywell solution I'm sure it will be fine too.
I know the venstar is super easy to install and I'm not familiar with that but from the description it sounds like a similar product.
It's up to you. I'm happy to give you my extra add-a-wire kit but if you want to go with the Honeywell solution I'm sure it will be fine too.
Posted on 3/12/16 at 11:34 am to CAD703X
i mean id take it since it doesnt look like i can get one at lowes/HD for today. But i whats the difference between giving up the independent fan control? I never turn the fan on by itself. Doing that, i can get it running today.
ETA: I ended up just bypassing the manual fan control. and got it working. I mean who really turns the circulation on without cool or heat?
for anyone else here is what i followed.
LINK
ETA: I ended up just bypassing the manual fan control. and got it working. I mean who really turns the circulation on without cool or heat?
for anyone else here is what i followed.
LINK
quote:
Alternative Solution
This solution is illustrated in this video from Honeywell. With this solution you lose the ability to manually turn on the blower fan, but the fan will still run properly in the Auto position.
WARNING: This procedure involves modifying the wiring in the furnace, and may not be approved by every manufacturer. Check with the furnace manufacturer, and all local codes before attempting this procedure. Make sure the breaker for the furnace is OFF before you begin.
Make sure the breaker for the furnace is OFF.
Start by removing the access panel on the furnace, and locating the thermostat wires.
Remove the wire from the G terminal, and connect it to the C terminal.
Using a short piece of 18 AWG wire, make a jumper and connect it between the Y and G terminals (this is only required if you have both heat and central air).
Replace the access panel.
Remove the thermostat from the wall to gain access to the wiring.
Remove the wire from the G terminal, and connect it to the C terminal.
Replace the thermostat.
Turn the furnace breaker back on.
This post was edited on 3/12/16 at 1:50 pm
Posted on 3/14/16 at 2:01 pm to CarRamrod
Anyone bought and set up the Bali blinds with WINK?
Any gotchas besides them being ridiculously expensive?
Any gotchas besides them being ridiculously expensive?
Posted on 3/14/16 at 2:04 pm to JollyGreenGiant
do those smart blinds simply go up and down? or do they sell the kind that rotate as well?
Posted on 3/14/16 at 2:10 pm to bbap
quote:
do those smart blinds simply go up and down? or do they sell the kind that rotate as well?
2 or 3 kickstarter campaigns (google iblinds) that are selling zwave doo-dads that do just the open/closing of the blinds.
i'm not familiar with bali, does it actually pull the blinds up & down?
Posted on 3/14/16 at 2:13 pm to CAD703X
this would probably not be something i invested in any time soon but if i ever did im pretty sure i'd want it to be able to pull the blinds up and down. But also rotate the slats.
Posted on 3/14/16 at 2:15 pm to bbap
quote:
this would probably not be something i invested in any time soon but if i ever did im pretty sure i'd want it to be able to pull the blinds up and down. But also rotate the slats.
same here. at the moment our house is 'blinds free' though so thats problem one...
Posted on 3/14/16 at 3:59 pm to CAD703X
did you back iblinds cad?
oohh you dont have blinds. well i really want to try it out for my bedroom. but id hate to love them and have to spend double for 2 more..... or hate them and wonder why i bought 4 of them.
oohh you dont have blinds. well i really want to try it out for my bedroom. but id hate to love them and have to spend double for 2 more..... or hate them and wonder why i bought 4 of them.
This post was edited on 3/14/16 at 4:01 pm
Posted on 3/14/16 at 4:35 pm to CAD703X
From facebook rep:The only generic Zigbee support our Hub has is for lighting, expanding that protocol further is challenging. I would not expect a large expansion on that front anytime soon. However, as far as partnerships go, thats's a different story, especially when it comes to Z-wave sensors. Nothing immediate I can share, but definitely some stuff in the roadmap :)
Posted on 3/14/16 at 4:46 pm to CarRamrod
I'm just not sure how practical iblinds is. Who wants to see a power cord coming out of their blind?
Posted on 3/14/16 at 4:49 pm to bbap
quote:
I'm just not sure how practical iblinds is. Who wants to see a power cord coming out of their blind?
i want to say there's an option for battery vs plugged in on these but i cant imagine the battery life would be great.
mstiger..what are you talking about?
Posted on 3/14/16 at 5:21 pm to CAD703X
Oh sorry. Just a general update because someone on there was complaining about the lack of sensors Wink compatible.
Posted on 3/14/16 at 10:49 pm to CAD703X
Well I see a use for them. Schedule them to open when you wake up on weekdays to aid in waking up. And closing during the day. Then opening in the evening.
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