- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: GFCI outlets
Posted on 4/30/18 at 7:41 am to kengel2
Posted on 4/30/18 at 7:41 am to kengel2
quote:
There are some pretty interesting changes that suck. Like a GFCI for your refrigerator.
My understanding is that this is not correct for residential kitchens. GFCI is required for dishwashers and countertop outlets only in the kitchen. I do think AFCI is required now for all outlets, this can present a small conundrum for kitchens but they do make dual function breakers now.
1
Posted on 4/30/18 at 9:31 am to mdomingue
Talked to some other guys at the shop.
I thought it was refrigerator on GFCI no matter what.
After digging and looking through the 2014 changes, it's supposed to be a AFCI no matter what and a GFCI if within 6 feet of any sink. Combo breakers for the win.
I also found a GFCI receptacle with an audible alarm, most companies make them, but might be a good idea in some spots.
I thought it was refrigerator on GFCI no matter what.
After digging and looking through the 2014 changes, it's supposed to be a AFCI no matter what and a GFCI if within 6 feet of any sink. Combo breakers for the win.
I also found a GFCI receptacle with an audible alarm, most companies make them, but might be a good idea in some spots.
Posted on 4/30/18 at 9:48 am to kengel2
First, you need to make sure it is wired correctly. This is a common problem that most laypeople don't realize because with a regular outlet you can wire it to whichever side and it doesn't matter.
If you have only ONE set of wires coming in to it, then that is the LINE and MUST be wired to the side that says LINE on the back. Often people wire it to the LOAD which is wrong and will continuously trip the breaker.
If you have TWO sets of wires, then you will have a LINE and LOAD, meaning the LOAD wire feeds from the GFCI to circuits further (or after) along the electrical line and protects those as well. If this is case, you need to make sure your "hot" LINE wire is wired to the LINE side on the back and the LOAD wire is wired to the LOAD side on the back. You will need a voltmeter to figure out which is which. The LINE when disconnected and breaker turn on, will have power and should read 120-125, the other wire will be your LOAD and will be dead because it doesn't have any power coming to it since it is disconnected. Mark them appropriately.
This is the first thing I would check. It is a VERY COMMON occurence when DIYers that have wired GFCIs wrong.
Watch this video (difference between GFCI load and line)...good explanation of what I posted above.
If you have only ONE set of wires coming in to it, then that is the LINE and MUST be wired to the side that says LINE on the back. Often people wire it to the LOAD which is wrong and will continuously trip the breaker.
If you have TWO sets of wires, then you will have a LINE and LOAD, meaning the LOAD wire feeds from the GFCI to circuits further (or after) along the electrical line and protects those as well. If this is case, you need to make sure your "hot" LINE wire is wired to the LINE side on the back and the LOAD wire is wired to the LOAD side on the back. You will need a voltmeter to figure out which is which. The LINE when disconnected and breaker turn on, will have power and should read 120-125, the other wire will be your LOAD and will be dead because it doesn't have any power coming to it since it is disconnected. Mark them appropriately.
This is the first thing I would check. It is a VERY COMMON occurence when DIYers that have wired GFCIs wrong.
Watch this video (difference between GFCI load and line)...good explanation of what I posted above.
This post was edited on 4/30/18 at 10:27 am
Posted on 4/30/18 at 10:07 am to LSUperior
quote:
If you have only ONE set of wires coming in to it, then that is the LOAD and MUST be wired to the side that says LOAD on the back. Often people wire it to the LINE which is wrong and will continuously trip the breaker.
If you have TWO sets of wires, then you will have a LOAD and LINE, meaning the LINE wire feeds from the GFCI to circuits further (or after) along the electrical line and protects those as well. If this is case, you need to make sure your "hot" LOAD wire is wired to the LOAD side on the back and the LINE wire is wired to the LINE side on the back. You will need a voltmeter to figure out which is which. The LOAD when disconnected and breaker turn on, will have power and should read 120-125, the other wire will be your LINE and will be dead because it doesn't have any power coming to it since it is disconnected. Mark them appropriately.
I think you have that backwards. The LINE side is where you wire up the power from your box. Anything in the circuit you feed from the GFCI outlet that you want protected is the LOAD.
ETA the video you linked also agrees with my statement.
This post was edited on 4/30/18 at 10:08 am
Posted on 4/30/18 at 10:24 am to mdomingue
quote:
I think you have that backwards. The LINE side is where you wire up the power from your box. Anything in the circuit you feed from the GFCI outlet that you want protected is the LOAD.
ETA the video you linked also agrees with my statement.
Yes...you are correct, not sure how I flipped those around lol (Monday morning brain fart)! Thanks for catching that. Will edit to make right.
This post was edited on 4/30/18 at 10:29 am
Posted on 4/30/18 at 10:40 am to LSUperior
quote:
Yes...you are correct, not sure how I flipped those around lol (Monday morning brain fart)! Thanks for catching that. Will edit to make right.
Trust me, I seem to do that regularly on here, or the one time I don't back check my recolection, it's exactly flipped.
Posted on 4/30/18 at 10:53 am to LSUtigerME
quote:
The same will apply to dishwashers and ice makers as well.
In that case, I would DEFINITELY have a sub panel in the pantry for all the kitchen appliances. If you have to have all those GFCI circuits, then I want the breakers right there in the kitchen so I don't have to walk across the house to reset them if they trip.
How many refrigerators full of food are going to be lost to this?
EDIT: Seems they've been thinking of this.
quote:
I also found a GFCI receptacle with an audible alarm, most companies make them, but might be a good idea in some spots.
This post was edited on 4/30/18 at 10:58 am
Page 2 of 2
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News