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re: Wide push mower?
Posted on 6/5/17 at 8:51 am to CAD703X
Posted on 6/5/17 at 8:51 am to CAD703X
it sounds to me like the shift lever is not aligned on the top transmission shaft right, or the nut holding it down is loose. The shaft coming out the top of the tranny is square and the hole in the shift lever is square.
Never shift on the fly. The only problem with these transmissions is wearing out the shift keys. Just replaced mine a month ago. Not terrible difficult but it wasn't too cheap either. If you shift on the fly then yo u will wear the normally square edges of the shift pins down and the edges will get rounded. This will cause the transmission to slip out of gear.
Never shift on the fly. The only problem with these transmissions is wearing out the shift keys. Just replaced mine a month ago. Not terrible difficult but it wasn't too cheap either. If you shift on the fly then yo u will wear the normally square edges of the shift pins down and the edges will get rounded. This will cause the transmission to slip out of gear.
1
Posted on 6/5/17 at 10:08 am to meauxjeaux2
quote:
or the nut holding it down is loose. The shaft coming out the top of the tranny is square and the hole in the shift lever is square.
its incredibly loose. the whole handle thing seems to just flop around at random.
you think i can tighten that nut and it might help? is it possible to overtighten it?
quote:
Never shift on the fly
just to be clear, you mean have both brakes held down while shifting correct? it bucks like a bronco and does a wheelie when i release them, i guess i just need to quit being a pussy and let up on the brakes in a more control fashion.
Posted on 6/5/17 at 10:14 am to CAD703X
quote:
its incredibly loose. the whole handle thing seems to just flop around at random.
you think i can tighten that nut and it might help? is it possible to overtighten it?
that's the whole reason you're having trouble selecting the proper gears. Yes, tighten it.
quote:
just to be clear, you mean have both brakes held down while shifting correct? it bucks like a bronco and does a wheelie when i release them, i guess i just need to quit being a pussy and let up on the brakes in a more control fashion.
Yes. Complete stop then change gears. Changing gears while the mower is moving will cause shift key wear.
This post was edited on 6/5/17 at 10:17 am
Posted on 6/5/17 at 1:57 pm to meauxjeaux2
thank you so much. your help has been invaluable. one last question..i'm having to use a bungie cord to 'hold down' the handle that engages the blades. it seems it rubs against the axle (see below where the copper is SHINY where it rubs when i drop the handle and it pulls up against the axle) and the vibration causes it to disengage. the only solution is that i've got a bungie cable stretched over it when its horizontal to keep it from flipping up. any thoughts as to what would cause this to not stay in a locked position?
perhaps adjusting it up/down based on the threads exposed in the pic?
This post was edited on 6/5/17 at 1:59 pm
Posted on 6/5/17 at 2:15 pm to CAD703X
that's a tough one man. There should also be an adjustment on the tensioner pulley where that arm connects.
Posted on 6/6/17 at 8:31 am to meauxjeaux2
Ok, so I've poked around a bit more and can definitely see a few problems. Is it wrong that I'm enjoying figuring this stuff out way too much? Never had this much fun with a mower before. 
Ok the little copper collar is definitely non-standard and I'm guessing that's probably the issue with the blade engagement lever. It appears the little metal band he's put on there is doing the job keeping the jackshaft from 'walking' so I don't think there's a point to the copper ring at this point so I'm going to try to remove it.
Also, I assume thats the bearing seal screwed into the metal frame on the left you posted a couple pages back (second pic). How difficult is it to replace that?
Now on to the left brake issue. I think I see the problem
The brake shoe is WAY off and appears to be bent or something is causing it to only catch about 15% of the rotor/metal wheel, the rest is hanging in space.
Not a great image but you can see how its not flush on the metal pulley.
I'm guessing if this is not properly pressing up against the wheel, thats part of my slipping issue..in particular when going uphill and i attempt to brake to slow things down or turn. This is probably why I got pinned against that telephone pole. 
I need to figure out if something is loose or what is causing it to be off like that. The mower is on a level surface right now in my garage so it should be ideal conditions to lock the brakes in the proper positions.
Ok the little copper collar is definitely non-standard and I'm guessing that's probably the issue with the blade engagement lever. It appears the little metal band he's put on there is doing the job keeping the jackshaft from 'walking' so I don't think there's a point to the copper ring at this point so I'm going to try to remove it.
Also, I assume thats the bearing seal screwed into the metal frame on the left you posted a couple pages back (second pic). How difficult is it to replace that?
Now on to the left brake issue. I think I see the problem
The brake shoe is WAY off and appears to be bent or something is causing it to only catch about 15% of the rotor/metal wheel, the rest is hanging in space.
Not a great image but you can see how its not flush on the metal pulley.
I'm guessing if this is not properly pressing up against the wheel, thats part of my slipping issue..in particular when going uphill and i attempt to brake to slow things down or turn. This is probably why I got pinned against that telephone pole.
I need to figure out if something is loose or what is causing it to be off like that. The mower is on a level surface right now in my garage so it should be ideal conditions to lock the brakes in the proper positions.
This post was edited on 6/6/17 at 8:36 am
Posted on 6/6/17 at 8:46 am to CAD703X
Very easy to replace that bearing. Took me 10 minutes on mine.
As the brake shoes and a slipping issue when attempting to turn, I have no idea. As I said, I removed my brake shoes. The mower stops on its own but I don't cut on uphill surfaces so I can see how this would be a concern. You can order those brake shoes new for very cheap. I would just replace them
As the brake shoes and a slipping issue when attempting to turn, I have no idea. As I said, I removed my brake shoes. The mower stops on its own but I don't cut on uphill surfaces so I can see how this would be a concern. You can order those brake shoes new for very cheap. I would just replace them
Posted on 6/6/17 at 2:36 pm to meauxjeaux2
quote:
Very easy to replace that bearing. Took me 10 minutes on mine.
awesome, seems like a good idea to swap it regardless. for $12 what can it hurt?
quote:
You can order those brake shoes new for very cheap. I would just replace them
good deal. i may do just that. i'm starting to get a little collection of cheap parts together that i need to keep the mower in shape thanks to you.
quote:
i have the 1 wheel Velky.
the little thing you ride on behind the mower
quote:
Mine is the wheel belt drive. That's what you want
got it, and done.
quote:
The hydros are unnecessary and very costly to maintain
yes i am seeing that now
quote:
Mine has the 5 speed Techumse Peerless transmission with reverse.
seeing where these can be found on ebay for $150-ish but much harder to find the older 700-022 (4sp) which is what i have.
i see some people are swapping for the 5sp but said the metal frame the shift handle is in may not be wide enough to support the 5th gear so they are removing that.
not sure what it would take to swap it over, something about going from a 16spline to a 9 spline?
here's a quote i saw on this:
quote:
I replaced one on a bobcat 48 inch walk behind earlier in the year with basically the same peerless transmission. Only the bolt pattern is different on the bottom of the tranny casing.
Only Two bolts on the underside of the transmission and remove the jackshafts coming out of the side of the transmission. This will expose the splines on each shaft. Slip in the new one, bolt it up from underneath, replace the jackshafts, slip the belts back on the pullys, and zoom!! Took about 45 minutes the first time, feeling my way as I went.
quote:
How do you remove the jack shafts?
There should be a retainer bolted to to the frame near the pulley. Unbolt it. It will slide out.
The larger pulley (underneath) is held on by a snap-ring,once this is removed, then the four bolts. etc.
quote:
You are going to remove the side cover that protects the drive pulley(double belt pulley), pull the drive belt off. It's easier to push the machine forward and pull outward on the belt, it should roll-off. LH and RH shafts are held on by two bolts and nuts. On the inboard side of the pulley, should be 2 bolt heads next to the retainer, next to the shaft should be two nuts. Remove them and double pulley and shaft should come out like as assemble. You are going to upgrade to a 5-speed transmission. Depending on the year you may have to remove the shift cover. The covers slot does not allow full travel of the gear shifter. If you do this just count the gears from neutral.
should i consider swapping for the newer/more common 5sp if and when my tranny dies?
I FEEL SO SMART NOW..i understand everything in your post and when i was on page 2 it was all greek to me
This post was edited on 6/6/17 at 2:43 pm
Posted on 6/6/17 at 2:45 pm to CAD703X
i wouldn't swap them out. No real difference between a 4 and 5 speed. I'm sure they both have the same final gear ratio in top gear.
Posted on 6/6/17 at 2:47 pm to meauxjeaux2
quote:
i wouldn't swap them out. No real difference between a 4 and 5 speed. I'm sure they both have the same final gear ratio in top gear.
ok so i dont get a faster gear swapping it? good to know. the older peerless is still around, its just $250+ as opposed to the 5sp which seems to be more common and can be had for $150+
Posted on 6/6/17 at 2:48 pm to CAD703X
same top speed. You should never have any ward parts break in that transmission. Only the shift keys if they're abused.
Posted on 6/6/17 at 2:49 pm to meauxjeaux2
quote:
Only the shift keys if they're abused.
i've been studying the parts diagram and for the life of me i cant figure out where those shift keys go. are they inside the tranny itself?
Posted on 6/6/17 at 3:06 pm to CAD703X
Posted on 6/6/17 at 3:55 pm to meauxjeaux2
that accent though and language ETA is that Ricky from TPB? i almost can't watch this video he's so clumsy.
This post was edited on 6/6/17 at 4:01 pm
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