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re: Need help with locating boat transducer NEW pics of transducer?
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:17 am to Chad504boy
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:17 am to Chad504boy
quote:
The transducer that comes with my GPS unit is a transom mount transducer. But thanks for all the confidence guys.
Just letting you know you have options. afermarket finders usually come with transom mount transducers because they are easy to install for owners. That does not mean they are the best or only option for that finder.
If the wires are cut to the existing transducer (leave enough to reconnect if you want to) there is no reason it has to be removed if you want to use the transom mount.
FWIW the transducer has NOTHING to do with the GPS portion of your finder.
This post was edited on 1/5/12 at 10:19 am
0
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:22 am to Chad504boy
quote:
Why everyone doubting my skills
wasnt meant to offend, just some questions led me to assume that a little. the transom is the last place i would want to drill a hole. depending on the composition of your transom (need boat year and model) some have wood and glass wrapped wood and once you start drilling there is where rot comes in. and those transom mounted ones like to get ripped off then u have a bigger problem. you can mount that transom mount transducer in your hull where your current one is located.
detailed instructions next post. this works for both types of ducers. yours should look like this?
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:23 am to Loanshark
I have good luck by going to a hobby store. They stock everything from 5 min epoxy (avoid this like the plague) to overnight cure. I personally do not like the putty crap either. Easy to get air pockets.
Here is my approach to epoxying in a new transducer.
1. You need the epoxy, and a round cardboard tube that is slightly larger than your transducer. A good paper cup, or even a plastic cup will do just fine, just cut it off about 1" or so from the top and save that part. You can use the bottom for mixing the epoxy. Finally get some modelling clay from wal-mart in the toy section.
2. Figure out where you want to mount the thing and clean the hull carefully. Mark the location by drawing a circle using your round cup as a guide. Scuff this up with coarse sandpaper to make sure the expoxy will bond.
3. Position the cup top and then use the modelling clay on the outside to hold the cup in position and also to seal the cup to the hull so that your expoxy won't run out underneath the edge of the cup.
4. Now mix up the epoxy, being careful to equally mix the two parts so that everything will cure properly. I usually pour a little into the cup, and then use a small spatula to make sure the epoxy wets the entire hull area without trapping a bubble. Now wet the bottom of the transducer with the epoxy as well. Carefully place the transducer in the cup, press down against the hull, and then cover the transducer with epoxy. Use something to hold the transducer down so that it doesn't tend to float away from the hull since the epoxy is pretty dense.
5. Check to make sure the transducer is all the way down, and that the epoxy comes up at least 1/2 way up the side of the thing, and then leave it alone. If you use 24 hour epoxy, I'd let it set for 48 hours. Then peel the modeling clay and the cardboard cup away and you are done.
Usually the slow-curing epoxy is quite a bit less viscous than the 5-minute type. The main thing you want to avoid is vigorous stirring while mixing as that can lead to lots of air bubbles. They will generally dissipate by floating to the top, but the fewer you have to start with, the better. To remove this later, a wood chisel and a hammer with the chisel set at the junction between the epoxy and the hull will pop it right out...
just make sure to get good epoxy, i use modeling epoxy that takes 24-48 hours to cure. this kind is HARD when it cures and provides better images on plane and at higher speeds.
good luck
Here is my approach to epoxying in a new transducer.
1. You need the epoxy, and a round cardboard tube that is slightly larger than your transducer. A good paper cup, or even a plastic cup will do just fine, just cut it off about 1" or so from the top and save that part. You can use the bottom for mixing the epoxy. Finally get some modelling clay from wal-mart in the toy section.
2. Figure out where you want to mount the thing and clean the hull carefully. Mark the location by drawing a circle using your round cup as a guide. Scuff this up with coarse sandpaper to make sure the expoxy will bond.
3. Position the cup top and then use the modelling clay on the outside to hold the cup in position and also to seal the cup to the hull so that your expoxy won't run out underneath the edge of the cup.
4. Now mix up the epoxy, being careful to equally mix the two parts so that everything will cure properly. I usually pour a little into the cup, and then use a small spatula to make sure the epoxy wets the entire hull area without trapping a bubble. Now wet the bottom of the transducer with the epoxy as well. Carefully place the transducer in the cup, press down against the hull, and then cover the transducer with epoxy. Use something to hold the transducer down so that it doesn't tend to float away from the hull since the epoxy is pretty dense.
5. Check to make sure the transducer is all the way down, and that the epoxy comes up at least 1/2 way up the side of the thing, and then leave it alone. If you use 24 hour epoxy, I'd let it set for 48 hours. Then peel the modeling clay and the cardboard cup away and you are done.
Usually the slow-curing epoxy is quite a bit less viscous than the 5-minute type. The main thing you want to avoid is vigorous stirring while mixing as that can lead to lots of air bubbles. They will generally dissipate by floating to the top, but the fewer you have to start with, the better. To remove this later, a wood chisel and a hammer with the chisel set at the junction between the epoxy and the hull will pop it right out...
just make sure to get good epoxy, i use modeling epoxy that takes 24-48 hours to cure. this kind is HARD when it cures and provides better images on plane and at higher speeds.
good luck
This post was edited on 1/5/12 at 10:26 am
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:27 am to Loanshark
quote:2005 Champion Sea Champ
(need boat year and model)
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:38 am to Chad504boy
the 2005 champ bass had all glass transom so i am assuming yours would too. just noticed the license plate on the trailer. u in la or nc?
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:39 am to Loanshark
quote:
you can mount that transom mount transducer in your hull where your current one is located.
I did not know this.
spring project. Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:42 am to Loanshark
LA
How does the transducer guage a water temp if its not in contact with the water? Is it just a hull temperature?
How does the transducer guage a water temp if its not in contact with the water? Is it just a hull temperature?
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:42 am to Bleeding purple
just have to hold it there longer so it doesnt roll if you have the one with the rounded sides
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:46 am to Loanshark
How do i tell if the current transducer would work with my new Lowrance HDS 5? I have no information as to what is there now. I guess I could tell you the model lowrance depth finder but thats it.
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:52 am to Chad504boy
No way the old transducer works with that unit. BTW, nice upgrade. I'd like to get an HDS one day.
Posted on 1/5/12 at 10:59 am to Chad504boy
look at the plugs on the back of your current graph. they should have a blue connector. if not go to lowrance dot com and see if there is an adaptor for that model. depending on the age/model of your current transducer it may or may not be compatible with your current ducer. the hds units have a 50/200 khz dual frequency transducer (or some variation). im not an elec engineer but have been told that the dual freq is what enhances the hds units display. if the current unit has the blue connector, then the other connector for power should match up as well, just swap the head units and go test it
what part of LA?
you close to central LA or toledo? would be glad to help
what part of LA?
you close to central LA or toledo? would be glad to help
Posted on 1/5/12 at 11:20 am to Loanshark
quote:
the hds units have a 50/200 khz dual frequency transducer (or some variation). im not an elec engineer but have been told that the dual freq is what enhances the hds units display. if the current unit has the blue connector, then the other connector for power should match up as well, just swap the head units and go test it
Yeah being i'm ordering a whole new setup, i rather just replace everything. I think the frequency of this transducer is superior as well. I'm in covington. I appreciate the offer. I think the planning out stage is tougher than doing the work stage.
Posted on 1/5/12 at 11:31 am to Chad504boy
quote:
Yeah being i'm ordering a whole new setup, i rather just replace everything. I think the frequency of this transducer is superior as well
sounds like a good plan
Personally, I would consider keeping both and placing the better sonar on the bow with a trolling motor mounted transducer. Even if I decided to keep the better one at the wheel I would put the other at the trolling motor.
Posted on 1/5/12 at 11:32 am to Chad504boy
What you found is definitely the transducer. My opinion - Best thing to do - leave it.
You can check with the manufacturer of the new electronic you are installing -- give them the model of your existing electronics and see if they have a unit that gives you the features you want and is compatible with the existing transducer.
If not, you can install a new transducer either inside the hull (like the existing one) or install a transom transducer. Easiest route is external transom mounted. I have found the best way to snake new wires on a boat is to go to Lowes and pick up a clothes dryer vent cleaning kit (will post pics below). Don't hook it up to your drill and snake it through like you would clean out your dryer vent -- that will have disastrous results. Insert slow and steady. Don't try to take out the existing transducer wire -- just leave it. Most likely, it is zip-tied to your wire harness and won't pull out.
As for mounting the transducer on your transom - not sure what kind of boat you are running, but the best thing to do is follow the path of the existing harness to the motor - break off the path and go straight down instead of up to the motor. There are wire clips you can get to screw into the outside of your transom to keep the wire straight and tight all the way down to the transducer.
One thing about the wire inside the boat - if it happens to run close to a radio amp, you may want to add additional rubber tubing around that section. You don't want to get unwanted noise caused by the amp feeding into your transducer wire.
Dryer vent cleaning snake (obviously you won't need the attachments, just the snake rods):
Transom mounted transducer:
You can check with the manufacturer of the new electronic you are installing -- give them the model of your existing electronics and see if they have a unit that gives you the features you want and is compatible with the existing transducer.
If not, you can install a new transducer either inside the hull (like the existing one) or install a transom transducer. Easiest route is external transom mounted. I have found the best way to snake new wires on a boat is to go to Lowes and pick up a clothes dryer vent cleaning kit (will post pics below). Don't hook it up to your drill and snake it through like you would clean out your dryer vent -- that will have disastrous results. Insert slow and steady. Don't try to take out the existing transducer wire -- just leave it. Most likely, it is zip-tied to your wire harness and won't pull out.
As for mounting the transducer on your transom - not sure what kind of boat you are running, but the best thing to do is follow the path of the existing harness to the motor - break off the path and go straight down instead of up to the motor. There are wire clips you can get to screw into the outside of your transom to keep the wire straight and tight all the way down to the transducer.
One thing about the wire inside the boat - if it happens to run close to a radio amp, you may want to add additional rubber tubing around that section. You don't want to get unwanted noise caused by the amp feeding into your transducer wire.
Dryer vent cleaning snake (obviously you won't need the attachments, just the snake rods):
Transom mounted transducer:
Posted on 1/5/12 at 11:42 am to Chad504boy
quote:No way. You have 4 holes there -- the hull drain plug, two live well overflows, and probably an ice chest? You can't run wires through those holes. Your transducer wire needs to follow the wires going from your throttle control to your motor - when it comes out the back with the rest of the wires/cables - make it go down your transom instead of to your motor.
Can I run the wires to any of those holes?
eta: one other piece of advice, and I only say this because I've had to correct this DIY mistake several times -- do not mount the bracket parallel with the V-bottom of the boat. I've seen people do this on more than one occasion just because it looks "natural" to make it line up with the v-bottom. You want the bracket to be parallel with the water line.
This post was edited on 1/5/12 at 11:46 am
Posted on 1/5/12 at 11:48 am to TxHillsTiger
YOu see how i have a lip that goes over the hull at the top (how the cover kind of tucks in over the lip)... anyways, on the left side underneath the lip and at the top of my fiberglass hull, i already kind of have a hole underneath the lip that i might be able to pass through and back down the hull into the bottom of the boat and not drill an additional hole. I would just wire clip it down the transom of the boat on that inside edge to make it nice and tidy.
Posted on 1/5/12 at 11:50 am to TxHillsTiger
quote:
eta: one other piece of advice, and I only say this because I've had to correct this DIY mistake several times -- do not mount the bracket parallel with the V-bottom of the boat. I've seen people do this on more than one occasion just because it looks "natural" to make it line up with the v-bottom. You want the bracket to be parallel with the water line.
Yeah thats one of the don'ts that was described in the instruction manual that i learned. You see on the right of the V in that picture i have a edge that's like 3 inches before the boat starts to angle back up... that's where i'm thinking of mounting it. (but on the left side)
Posted on 1/5/12 at 11:55 am to Chad504boy
quote:
i might be able to pass through and back down the hull into the bottom of the boat and not drill an additional hole. I would just wire clip it down the transom of the boat on that inside edge to make it nice and tidy.
Just make sure to epoxy or silicone all of the holes including the screw holes for the wireclips.
Posted on 1/5/12 at 11:56 am to Bleeding purple
quote:
including the screw holes for the wireclips.
I seen some that are adhesive that I think you can use a tie strap with it... wondering how that would do getting wet... maybe worth trying before screwing more holes.
Posted on 1/5/12 at 1:08 pm to Chad504boy
I doubt they will stick well but I would clean off the wax on the hull before trying them. denatured alcohol or scotts marine white both work well for this.
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