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Started By
Message
Lifting a Polaris Ranger Crew "Portals"
Posted on 3/15/24 at 6:26 am
Posted on 3/15/24 at 6:26 am
I understand if you want to play you have to pay! I would appreciate it if you would share your experience/advise w/portals & big tires. Frame issues and issues in general. What not to do.
Right or wrongRob. I'm all in on 8" portals (parts stacked in the cave) not sure if I will add more lift than I currently have. Wanting to run 40's but 38's are a confirmed fit. <-- not sure if it matters other than available tread pattern. I have frame stiffeners, but I'm also interested in keeping the tires where they belong & not folded up under the machine.
Currently running 2020 Ranger crew:
High-Lifter Apex front & rear control arms
3" bracket lift w/2" wheel spacers, running 32"s.
Stock axles
I don't drive aggressive, just setting it up "better" to get to camp. The trip is 45min-1hr from the tailgate, with a lot of water. It's a freaking expedition lol. Swamp buggy territory south of south of Lake Okeechobee mostly sand based. Current set up works but it's limits are pushed as far a deep water goes chest deep in several spots.
Right or wrongRob. I'm all in on 8" portals (parts stacked in the cave) not sure if I will add more lift than I currently have. Wanting to run 40's but 38's are a confirmed fit. <-- not sure if it matters other than available tread pattern. I have frame stiffeners, but I'm also interested in keeping the tires where they belong & not folded up under the machine.
Currently running 2020 Ranger crew:
High-Lifter Apex front & rear control arms
3" bracket lift w/2" wheel spacers, running 32"s.
Stock axles
I don't drive aggressive, just setting it up "better" to get to camp. The trip is 45min-1hr from the tailgate, with a lot of water. It's a freaking expedition lol. Swamp buggy territory south of south of Lake Okeechobee mostly sand based. Current set up works but it's limits are pushed as far a deep water goes chest deep in several spots.
4
Posted on 3/15/24 at 6:57 am to wrongRob
Not sure if that year model falls into the weak front a-arm mounting points or not. Tater Toys makes a beefy whole new front weld in lower frame section. I’d look into it if you’re going that big.
If you’re staying with factory a-arms look into heavy duty ball joints.
Going that high I would 100% do track bars.
Someone makes a clear belt box cover which is nice for the riding you’ll be doing to easily monitor your belt/clutches.
Keep clean oil in your portals and watch for slack. Brass brake pads, standard won’t hold up for anything.
If you’re staying with factory a-arms look into heavy duty ball joints.
Going that high I would 100% do track bars.
Someone makes a clear belt box cover which is nice for the riding you’ll be doing to easily monitor your belt/clutches.
Keep clean oil in your portals and watch for slack. Brass brake pads, standard won’t hold up for anything.
Posted on 3/15/24 at 7:31 am to Cypressknee
quote:
Not sure if that year model falls into the weak front a-arm mounting points or not. Tater Toys makes a beefy whole new front weld in lower frame section. I’d look into it if you’re going that big.
If you’re staying with factory a-arms look into heavy duty ball joints.
Going that high I would 100% do track bars.
Someone makes a clear belt box cover which is nice for the riding you’ll be doing to easily monitor your belt/clutches.
Keep clean oil in your portals and watch for slack. Brass brake pads, standard won’t hold up for anything.
I'm meeting with a fab shop in a couple weeks & will get more detail on the frame and the over the counter stuff I have already.
I have the hd version of the a-arms with hd ball joints.
Certainly interested in track bars.
I've seen the clear belt box on a very high end sxs thought it was a one off. I'll look for that momentarily.
Saw a video focused on 8" portals with a guy mentioning brass brakes on his video it had a ton of racket, are they noisy? His was unbearable in the video. I very rarely touch the breaks where & the way I ride.
Thank you!
Posted on 3/15/24 at 7:45 am to wrongRob
quote:
Brass brakes on his video it had a ton of racket, are they noisy?
I haven’t found them to be. Although, if there was slack say from a bad wheel bearing I could see that changing.
Posted on 3/15/24 at 2:35 pm to wrongRob
Seen someone with these sweet trailing arms the other day. If I was spending money again on mine or a new one. I would go that route for sure
Posted on 3/15/24 at 2:44 pm to wrongRob
quote:
8" portals
quote:
heavy duty ball joints
Doesn't compute. 4" sure you can use Dirt Mafia or Keller Ball joints. 8"? Ball joint delete is your only option.
Posted on 3/16/24 at 5:58 am to Nado Jenkins83
quote:
Nado Jenkins83
I apologize for the delayed response. Took the boat out yesterday.
I appreciate the info haven't seen those before, any info on them? I'm considering doing business with a shop that's done a lot of elite machines/trailer queens. I'll ask them about trailing arms in general but my ignorance figured bolting the portals onto the control arms I have (not stock) would be good enough. Thanks, now I'm in features/benefits/$$$ maybe I shouldn't have asked.
All seriousness thanks for the info and adding the pic!Posted on 3/16/24 at 6:05 am to Pauvetibete
quote:
Doesn't compute. 4" sure you can use Dirt Mafia or Keller Ball joints. 8"? Ball joint delete is your only option.
I apologize for the delayed response.
Whelp chalk this up to me being uninformed. I have the Keller ball joints in the "upgraded" apex control arms from HighLifter their info said good to go if I planned to go portals in the future. I appreciate your experience this is another great point to discuss with the shop I'm speaking with. Thank you!
Posted on 3/16/24 at 7:42 am to wrongRob
Gentlemen I appreciate all of your input & for now I think I'm good to go.
Upgraded equipment & where to get it has been provided. I guess I have to count the cost to see what I'm going to do. Y'all have opened my eyes to things I just didn't consider. I appreciate it.
This may take longer than expected
Upgraded equipment & where to get it has been provided. I guess I have to count the cost to see what I'm going to do. Y'all have opened my eyes to things I just didn't consider. I appreciate it.
This may take longer than expected
Posted on 3/16/24 at 10:23 am to wrongRob
Basically what everyone else said, if you can afford to do a ball joint delete, do it. That's a lot of stress and weight with a crew cab on ball joints. I've seen them all break no matter the brand, they make me nervous. Also if you can clear the tires with just portals I'd drop the bracket lift, it'll keep your axles at stock angles and significantly reduce stress on them as well
Posted on 3/16/24 at 11:33 am to OnePercent
quote:
OnePercent
Thank you! Truth is hurting a lil $$$ Good times!
Posted on 3/18/24 at 10:03 am to wrongRob
It's not that you can't, but more you shouldn't. 8" portals would put MOST of your pressure on your ball joints instead of your arms. Ball joints are going to be the weakest link, and since you want to avoid that tire folding in on itself I would ABSOLUTELY spend extra on a ball joint delete, especially since those big bikes are a PIA to get out of the woods once broken.
Posted on 3/18/24 at 10:06 am to OnePercent
Depends on the "bracket" lift. If it's on top of the shocks, dump it. If it's mounted on top of the a-arms it's fine. MMA and Pro Lift make 2 inch brackets that mount on top of the a arms which keep the axel angles close to stock.
That being said, a buddy has a 6 inch lift with 6 inch portal and I swear his axels are the best I've ever seen. Damn near straight.
That being said, a buddy has a 6 inch lift with 6 inch portal and I swear his axels are the best I've ever seen. Damn near straight.
Posted on 3/20/24 at 6:04 pm to Pauvetibete
quote:
It's not that you can't, but more you shouldn't. 8" portals would put MOST of your pressure on your ball joints instead of your arms. Ball joints are going to be the weakest link, and since you want to avoid that tire folding in on itself I would ABSOLUTELY spend extra on a ball joint delete, especially since those big bikes are a PIA to get out of the woods once broken.
I apologize for the delayed response. Message has been received.
I'm looking for kits with trailing arms & ball joint delete as we speak. Cypressknee directed me to Tatertoys and I've looked at others as well. There's a shop in Ferriday that builds them & I like to do business with Louisiana when I can.
I spoke to a local fab shop last week, they build very big high end wheelers. They are out of state doing a show, we plan to meet when they get back. I'll have a better direction then. Thanks!
Posted on 3/20/24 at 6:24 pm to Pauvetibete
quote:
That being said, a buddy has a 6 inch lift with 6 inch portal and I swear his axels are the best I've ever seen. Damn near straight.
My friend runs a similar set up, it's a nice rig. I would have done the same but I purchased the 8" instead not knowing what was truly needed. I'm pretty much all in on the ball joint delete, they have 6" built in plus the portal. I'll know more in a week or so. Thanks!
Posted on 3/24/24 at 7:53 am to Pauvetibete
quote:
Pauvetibete
Or anyone else in the know.
Ball joint delete on a side by side....
How did you do the delete?
Did you buy a complete aftermarket set with control arms & trailing arms from a retailer or is it feasible to modify my control arms & portal bracket with a cup/uniball setup?
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