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Message
Dual light switch question
Posted on 11/20/18 at 4:28 pm
Posted on 11/20/18 at 4:28 pm
I had a basic light socket break on me and it needs replaced. The ceramic/porcelain at the base cracked. So I’m looking to replace as well as redo some wiring.
Currently have 4 lights connected to this switch. One in the stairwell and three others on the “basement” side. There are also 3 on the “garage” side that operate with a pull chain.
I ordered a 6 pack of the basic variety with no pull chain. I plan on replacing the 3 pull chain ones with 3 of these and add 3 more on the garage side. While doing some cleaning out this weekend I found a switch I had bought for some renovations that we ended up not using. It fits in a single box but has two switches in it.
What I would like to do is keep the three way at the top of the stairs so we can turn on the existing “basement” half and wire the ones in the existing pull chain locations in the “garage” half to the other switch. So if you’re at the bottom of the stairs you can turn on either half from there.
Mainly need more light in my garage space since that is where I do woodwork and my wife does painting and other stuff for crafts she sells. All will have LED bulbs in them.
So to sum it up, 4 existing on one switch, and 6 on the other. My question is this, will I need to pull another wire from the fuse box to this switch or will it work with the one that is currently there? One of the pull chains is already pretty close to this switch so I can tap into that if I need another one. Just trying to avoid running more than I have to.
Currently have 4 lights connected to this switch. One in the stairwell and three others on the “basement” side. There are also 3 on the “garage” side that operate with a pull chain.
I ordered a 6 pack of the basic variety with no pull chain. I plan on replacing the 3 pull chain ones with 3 of these and add 3 more on the garage side. While doing some cleaning out this weekend I found a switch I had bought for some renovations that we ended up not using. It fits in a single box but has two switches in it.
What I would like to do is keep the three way at the top of the stairs so we can turn on the existing “basement” half and wire the ones in the existing pull chain locations in the “garage” half to the other switch. So if you’re at the bottom of the stairs you can turn on either half from there.
Mainly need more light in my garage space since that is where I do woodwork and my wife does painting and other stuff for crafts she sells. All will have LED bulbs in them.
So to sum it up, 4 existing on one switch, and 6 on the other. My question is this, will I need to pull another wire from the fuse box to this switch or will it work with the one that is currently there? One of the pull chains is already pretty close to this switch so I can tap into that if I need another one. Just trying to avoid running more than I have to.
4
Posted on 11/20/18 at 4:54 pm to TU Rob
Your dual switch (double despar)should have a connecting tab between two of the terminals on one side of the switch, so running a hot to either one of these will provide power to both switches. In applications requiring two separate hot leads to the switch, you break off the tab between the two screws.
You'll still need to run a separate hot lead back to the second switch. Your commons should be okay the way they are.
You'll still need to run a separate hot lead back to the second switch. Your commons should be okay the way they are.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 4:56 pm to TU Rob
You won't be able to do this with that double switch unless its also a 3-way.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 5:07 pm to FrankDrebin
What Frank said. I reread and see you mentioned the three way towards the end of your project. Good luck finding that in a dual switch.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 5:58 pm to TU Rob
So....
Now that I’ve made it back home let’s talk.
I’m assuming that you have a 3-way switch at the top and bottom of the stairs for the four lights in the stairwell and basement.
Leave this alone if that’s the case.
You should just add a new switch to operate the garage lights.
Of the three garage lights the constant “hot” wire will be going to one of them first and then to the others.
You’ll need to run a 12-2 from the light the hot wire goes to first to your new switch.
Rewire the wiring in the light so that the constant hot is connected to the white going to the switch and the black wire going to the switch connects to the wire feeding the lights.
All of this of course assumes that you can access the existing wiring.
Now that I’ve made it back home let’s talk.
I’m assuming that you have a 3-way switch at the top and bottom of the stairs for the four lights in the stairwell and basement.
Leave this alone if that’s the case.
You should just add a new switch to operate the garage lights.
Of the three garage lights the constant “hot” wire will be going to one of them first and then to the others.
You’ll need to run a 12-2 from the light the hot wire goes to first to your new switch.
Rewire the wiring in the light so that the constant hot is connected to the white going to the switch and the black wire going to the switch connects to the wire feeding the lights.
All of this of course assumes that you can access the existing wiring.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 6:48 pm to FrankDrebin
Thanks. I wasn’t sure about the 3 way. It is all exposed beam basement so wiring is accessible. I’ll just put a double box there instead of the single. It’s just mounted on a conduit pole and easy to replace.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 7:15 pm to TU Rob
There is no way to keep your three way with that switch configuration
Posted on 11/20/18 at 7:33 pm to FrankDrebin
quote:
You’ll need to run a 12-2 from the light the hot wire goes to first to your new switch.
Curious why you suggested 12-2 rather than suggesting he run the same gauge wire already being used (I may have missed where he said what the fuse/breaker size was). 14-2 is easier to work with and as likely to be what he already has for a lighting circuit. Though 12-2 would probably be safe for any fuse or breaker he is likely to have, it's rare to see 120 volt circuits over 20 Amps.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 8:13 pm to mdomingue
You are right, 14-2 is likely what is being used in his home.
I’m in the commercial, industrial industry and we rarely use anything smaller than #12 wire
except for controls. So I guess I always default to 12awg.
I’m in the commercial, industrial industry and we rarely use anything smaller than #12 wire
except for controls. So I guess I always default to 12awg.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 8:25 pm to FrankDrebin
I’ve got a roll of 14-2 from a previous project. Electrician wired up our renovation in the bathroom a few years back and told me to buy the wire and fixtures and just pay him for his time and that’s what he suggested.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 8:30 pm to TU Rob
As long as the fuse or breaker isn’t larger than 15amps you are good to go.
Edit to add
Not sure about codes were you are but here we have to use 12awg for 20amp circuits.
Edit to add
Not sure about codes were you are but here we have to use 12awg for 20amp circuits.
This post was edited on 11/20/18 at 8:35 pm
Posted on 11/20/18 at 8:44 pm to FrankDrebin
These three are on a 15a. I’ll be using LED bulbs in them and it will be 5 total sockets. Just looked at the wiring and it runs to the one nearest the switch first then out to the other two. I’ll just tie in between the last two for the ones I’m adding.
Posted on 11/20/18 at 8:55 pm to TU Rob
Yep,
Good luck on your install.
Good luck on your install.
Posted on 11/21/18 at 6:54 am to FrankDrebin
quote:
I’m in the commercial, industrial industry and we rarely use anything smaller than #12 wire
except for controls. So I guess I always default to 12awg.
That makes sense. It's sort of pointless to put in a 15 Amp primary circuit in a commercial/industrial environment. And that's about the only place you'll see a 30 Amp 120 volt circuit as well, though that is still fairly rare.
for your short comedy enjoyment.
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