Started By
Message

re: Anyone here keep Bees?

Posted on 5/16/19 at 4:56 pm to
Posted by Columbia
Land of the Yuppies
Member since Mar 2016
3132 posts
Posted on 5/16/19 at 4:56 pm to
Honestly that’s all I had at the time and a deep might have been too big. Letting them feed for a few days. Going to get some more boxes tomorrow and will check Nuc to see how bees are doing on feed and drawing comb. I’ll move them to a deep when they pack out the Nuc.

But I am new to all this so if I am doing something wrong, I’ll take all the negative criticism I can get in hopes of learning more.
This post was edited on 5/16/19 at 4:58 pm
Posted by cave canem
pullarius dominus
Member since Oct 2012
12186 posts
Posted on 5/16/19 at 5:01 pm to
quote:

But I am new to all this so if I am doing something wrong, I’ll take all the negative criticism I can get in hopes of learning more.



I am brand new and can only offer what I have been told for what it is worth, I was advised to move them as few times as possible and have been proceeding with that as a guideline.

Who knows if it is an issue or not, that is why I asked.

Posted by Columbia
Land of the Yuppies
Member since Mar 2016
3132 posts
Posted on 5/16/19 at 5:16 pm to
I’ll let ya know when they swarm once I move them again .
Posted by Bee Man
Hester, LA
Member since Mar 2018
327 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 7:13 am to
Cool video Columbia. You remained calm for that being your first swarm. I’ve learned that they can make comb and a huge mess very quickly after moving into a swarm trap. I used to leave them a couple weeks before moving them to a hive box. Now, I try to not go longer than 2-3 days.

The problem with trying to rubber band new comb like that is that it’s usually too soft to support itself. I usually rubber band comb from cut outs (hive removals) from houses since it’s usually older and stiffer comb than new comb.

I enjoyed your video. Keep posting them!
This post was edited on 5/17/19 at 2:04 pm
Posted by Bee Man
Hester, LA
Member since Mar 2018
327 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 7:16 am to
There’s nothing wrong with going into a nuc first. It’s a little more work, because you’ll have to move them again later, but they can actually defend their hive better in a smaller area like a nuc vs a full hive body. Sometimes, the swarms are so large, you need to go to a full hive body from the start.
This post was edited on 5/17/19 at 7:51 am
Posted by BallsEleven
Member since Mar 2019
6163 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 7:34 am to
How would you gauge when a swarm is too large for a nuc?
Posted by Bee Man
Hester, LA
Member since Mar 2018
327 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 7:35 am to
There are a couple things you can do for the beetles. If you have screened bottom boards with the pull out corrugated plastic sheet, you can place swiffer sheets on it and slide it back into place. Or, you can buy one of those cheap red and white plastic table cloths from Walmart and cut it to the size of your hive. Turn it upside down and tape it on the corrugated plastic sheet.

In either case, rough up the fibers before sliding it back into the bottom board. When the bees chase them down, they get tangled up in the fibers.

Placing your hives in full sun helps with beetles as well. They either can’t tolerate the heat, or just don’t like it.

As Cave Canem mentioned above, I believe there are also cheap plastic beetle traps that you can get from eBay. I’ve never used them, but I think you put some type of poison bait in them. I’ve heard they work really well. Here’s a link for making your own from CD cases: LINK

If you want to go the expensive route, look up Beetle Buster bottom boards. LINK /

They look well made and people seem to love them. They seem pricey to me though.
This post was edited on 5/17/19 at 7:56 am
Posted by Bee Man
Hester, LA
Member since Mar 2018
327 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 7:43 am to
Unfortunately, it’s kind of a judgement call. It’s easier if you use a normal swarm trap with five frames. Once you open up the trap, if they have all five frames covered, or if they look over crowded, I would put them in a full size box. You could also judge it by how much comb they made and how quickly they made it. If it looks like they’re filling out the frames with comb faster than normal, I would put them in a full sized box.

I wish I could give you a more definitive answer, but it’s really something you just get a feel for as you catch more swarms.
Posted by Bee Man
Hester, LA
Member since Mar 2018
327 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 7:48 am to
Cave, did you put the Flow hive cells on a new hive? If so, you should let the bees fill out two deep hive bodies the first year without using the flow cells (honey super). After the first year, add the flow cells to the hive just before the nectar flow starts. It also helps to melt some beeswax and, using a pain roller, roll it onto the flow cells.
Posted by BallsEleven
Member since Mar 2019
6163 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 8:00 am to


No worries, I figured there wasn't a clear cut answer.
Posted by cave canem
pullarius dominus
Member since Oct 2012
12186 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 9:19 am to
quote:

As Cave Canem mentioned above, I believe there are also cheap plastic beetle traps that you can get from eBay. I’ve never used them, but I think you put some type of poison bait in them. I’ve heard they work really well.


The ones I got have 3 chambers, 2 for vegetable oil to catch/drown the beetles and one for apple cider vinegar as an attractant.

Will report back if I find beetles in one or any in the hive, at this point I am beetle free.

The claim was bees chase them in and they cant get out due to the oil.
Posted by cave canem
pullarius dominus
Member since Oct 2012
12186 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 9:24 am to
quote:

Cave, did you put the Flow hive cells on a new hive? If so, you should let the bees fill out two deep hive bodies the first year without using the flow cells (honey super). After the first year, add the flow cells to the hive just before the nectar flow starts. It also helps to melt some beeswax and, using a pain roller, roll it onto the flow cells.


yes I added it as they built out the deep so fast, now I will have to figure out a way back up and punt.

Just seems counter intuitive as I am stacking supers on my regular langs as fast as they build them out.

On a positive note just left the garden a few min ago and the bees were lined up to get on the squash and zucchini which was the original reason I wanted bees so I was
Posted by Columbia
Land of the Yuppies
Member since Mar 2016
3132 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 9:53 am to
quote:

I used to leave them a couple weeks before moving them to a hive box. Now, I try to not go longer than 2-3 days.


Yeah that’s what I’ve been spinning my wheels on. Was thinking of waiting a week but may go ahead and check on them tomorrow and move to deep. What’s your experience on how fast these swarms will draw out a Nuc?

On another note, loving this thread. It’s been very helpful.
Posted by Bee Man
Hester, LA
Member since Mar 2018
327 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 2:03 pm to
If they already filled out two deeps, there’s no harm in putting the flow cells on there. It just helps them make it through winter if they have two deeps completely filled.

People also suggest not harvesting honey from the bees during their first year. Again, just to help them through winter.
Posted by Bee Man
Hester, LA
Member since Mar 2018
327 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 2:11 pm to
quote:

What’s your experience on how fast these swarms will draw out a Nuc?


It’s totally dependent on the time of year and how big the hive is. During the nectar flow, which is just getting started around the Baton Rouge/Gonzales area, an average sized swarm will build comb extremely fast. I would say that they could draw out a nuc in 2-3 weeks. During the dearth, they won’t build comb at all unless you’re feeding them.
Posted by cave canem
pullarius dominus
Member since Oct 2012
12186 posts
Posted on 5/17/19 at 3:02 pm to
I will leave two boxes on each hive unmolested, the others I will harvest.

A few will be deep+medium combos because I ended up scoring a large amount of medium boxes and frames from someone very cheaply.

Posted by weagle99
Member since Nov 2011
35893 posts
Posted on 5/18/19 at 7:17 am to
Hey guys interesting thread i have some hibiscus that is blooming that the bees seem to like. What other flowers are good to plant for them?

Bonus: I have a fountain with a mosquito dunk and some bleach in the water. I assume the bees will avoid that water due to smell?
Posted by Columbia
Land of the Yuppies
Member since Mar 2016
3132 posts
Posted on 5/18/19 at 7:27 am to
So far I’ve learned they love Privet and blackberry bushes. Some say in Mississippi that the Chinese Tallow tree contributes to the majority of honey production in Mississippi. They were going to release a beatle to kill off all of those trees since they're an invasive tree, but many were scared of the consequences to the bees.

Not sure about your water question.
Posted by Bee Man
Hester, LA
Member since Mar 2018
327 posts
Posted on 5/18/19 at 7:45 am to
I’m not sure about flower bed plants or flowers, other than lavender, that are really good at attracting honey bees. Some plants like clover, thistle, alfalfa, sunflower, buttonbush, passion vine, honey locust and dandelion are great for attracting pollinators, but you wouldn’t necessarily want them in your flower bed.

Trees and shrubs that are great for attracting them are the Chinese Tallow, bottle brush, ligustrum, and holly.

I’m not sure about the bleach water.
Posted by weagle99
Member since Nov 2011
35893 posts
Posted on 5/18/19 at 9:24 am to
Thanks to both of you guys for the replies.

Jump to page
Page First 6 7 8 9 10 ... 15
Jump to page
first pageprev pagePage 8 of 15Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookTwitterInstagram