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Anyone ever usee Krylon Fusion paint for plastic (canoe painting)
Posted on 1/21/18 at 8:32 am
Posted on 1/21/18 at 8:32 am
Recently got a canoe to leave at the camp. Great shape, no leaks.. but due to sitting out in the sun is faded bad. Was going to paint it, but dont want to do all the sanding and put in a ton of time. Ran across this krylon fusion brush on paint for plastic that says no sanding or priming. Any experience? Not trying to win a beauty pagent with it or nothing. Thanks
Posted on 1/21/18 at 8:46 am to oleyeller
If it's fiberglass it'll work
If it's plastic it might stick
I painted my old town and it's held up well
If it's plastic it might stick
I painted my old town and it's held up well
Posted on 1/21/18 at 8:58 am to oleyeller
I used the Fusion spray paint for my jeep fender flares and it has held up nicely for 3 years. It was spray paint though, not brush on. It is my understanding that they quit making it? I did the dash in my jeep last year and used rustoleum American accents 2x ultra cover spray paint and it has held up well so far. It was suggested as a replacement for the fusion.
ETA:
Prep is very important. Wash with Dawn, then wipe well with alcohol before you paint.
ETA:
Prep is very important. Wash with Dawn, then wipe well with alcohol before you paint.
This post was edited on 1/21/18 at 9:01 am
Posted on 1/21/18 at 9:11 am to oleyeller
Painted canoes always look like shite, as do most large things sprayed from a paint can, unless you have some basic skills. You might try waxing a small spot to see how that looks. It can always be removed with the rest of the stuff that has to be cleaned for a plastic paint job to have any chance of lasting. ETA: Canoes take a lot abuse, they get dinged when picked up and again when dropped, they hit stuff in the water, stuff hits them on land, and they'll often get drug around.
Hint:
If you do, go with paint as close as possible to original color, as it will eventually show once again.
Hint:
If you do, go with paint as close as possible to original color, as it will eventually show once again.
This post was edited on 1/21/18 at 9:20 am
Posted on 1/21/18 at 9:22 am to awestruck
yea i know its not going to come out looking factory new. Was just trying to bring it back to life a little bit.
Posted on 1/21/18 at 9:35 am to oleyeller
Seen lots of them sprayed and it does help protect from additional UV damage.
Have had real good results going to NAPA and getting one of the guys cook up something. It's just everyone's plastic boats all eventually show through, partially because most stuff doesn't stick very well to plastic, but you seem to already know!!!
and good luck
Have had real good results going to NAPA and getting one of the guys cook up something. It's just everyone's plastic boats all eventually show through, partially because most stuff doesn't stick very well to plastic, but you seem to already know!!!

This post was edited on 1/21/18 at 9:41 am
Posted on 1/21/18 at 11:23 am to oleyeller
what kind of plastic? HDPE like kayaks etc., or Royalex?
no paint will permanently bond to either material. royalex might do better with a rubbing or polishing compound to take the top oxidized/faded layer off.
HDPE, I use Fusion on my hunting kayak. clean it, let it dry, paint it, let it sit on sawhorses in the sun for 3-4 days before using it. Paint will still scrape and peel off, but slowly over time. Then just keep a can of the colors aruond and spray it to touch up.
again, though, no paint of any kind will ever permanently bond to either material.
no paint will permanently bond to either material. royalex might do better with a rubbing or polishing compound to take the top oxidized/faded layer off.
HDPE, I use Fusion on my hunting kayak. clean it, let it dry, paint it, let it sit on sawhorses in the sun for 3-4 days before using it. Paint will still scrape and peel off, but slowly over time. Then just keep a can of the colors aruond and spray it to touch up.
again, though, no paint of any kind will ever permanently bond to either material.
Posted on 1/21/18 at 11:32 am to oleyeller
for that, rattle cans arent the best choice so can paint is best, use a "flat" or "satin" finish paint because it doesnt show the streaks where dry paint meets wet paint on such a large area and it also helps hide scratches and imperfections.
prep with soap and water using a green scrubbing pad and then after its dry wipe down with alcohol and clean cloth.
when painting, use a roller and not a brush and do 2 or 3 thin coats rather then one thick coat.
prep with soap and water using a green scrubbing pad and then after its dry wipe down with alcohol and clean cloth.
when painting, use a roller and not a brush and do 2 or 3 thin coats rather then one thick coat.
Posted on 1/21/18 at 11:39 am to keakar
quote:
when painting, use a roller and not a brush and do 2 or 3 thin
this was what i had planned. But didnt know if even worth it
Posted on 1/21/18 at 5:32 pm to oleyeller
if you plan to keep it then its worth it
if you dont care what it looks like you can use that wipe new stuff, its just a thin clear coat you rub on using a small hand wipe like cloth soaked in the stuff. thats the ultimate easiest way to put a protective layer on it and it will look like it does when wet, so if it looks good wet do that
if you dont care what it looks like you can use that wipe new stuff, its just a thin clear coat you rub on using a small hand wipe like cloth soaked in the stuff. thats the ultimate easiest way to put a protective layer on it and it will look like it does when wet, so if it looks good wet do that
Posted on 1/21/18 at 5:53 pm to oleyeller
used it on bed rail covers and the wiper cowl on a '05 F150 i used to have. the paint held up great
Posted on 1/22/18 at 6:10 am to keakar
sorry - but paint gun - trumps brush
(if available)
The peel problem is why the auto finishing guy route... (NAPA around here's pretty good - in town specialty shops better but pricey)... worked best for me. They knew about plastic peeling concerns and most importantly matched the color. Acetone is a good way to go for cleaning and it dries fast. Best to clean off as good as you can before using it and the plus is you won't have wait very long after the acetone before painting (dries fast).
Avoid cleaning up with anything contaminated with silicons (ie" clean rags, not used for any waxing or car washing) as it will fish-eye the finish. eta: even the residue left from those fabric-softening dryer sheets can lead to silicon probelms
(if available)
The peel problem is why the auto finishing guy route... (NAPA around here's pretty good - in town specialty shops better but pricey)... worked best for me. They knew about plastic peeling concerns and most importantly matched the color. Acetone is a good way to go for cleaning and it dries fast. Best to clean off as good as you can before using it and the plus is you won't have wait very long after the acetone before painting (dries fast).
Avoid cleaning up with anything contaminated with silicons (ie" clean rags, not used for any waxing or car washing) as it will fish-eye the finish. eta: even the residue left from those fabric-softening dryer sheets can lead to silicon probelms
This post was edited on 1/22/18 at 7:07 am
Posted on 1/22/18 at 7:41 am to oleyeller
I used Parker duck boat paint, rolled it on a plastic canoe, been on there 10 years
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