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Started By
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Posted on 1/29/25 at 7:48 pm to Bucktail1
It wasn’t the rectifier. Changed it out and still nothing.
Posted on 1/29/25 at 8:44 pm to Bucktail1
My ignition switch went bad once and had a similar issue, but it was a Chinese replacement for a lost key and you typically don’t see the originals fail. See if you can find where the ignition plugs into the harness and unplug it, if one of the pins is burned that’s probably the issue.
Electrical issues suck, if you can get someone else to go around yanking on wires, sometimes that’s all it will take to see a light come on when it makes connection for a second, otherwise you just have to go piece by piece testing everything. Still think it’s worth cleaning all grounds and batt connections, they can look good but not be making good contact, and that’s free. The frame ground is usually on the engine near the pull rope.
Electrical issues suck, if you can get someone else to go around yanking on wires, sometimes that’s all it will take to see a light come on when it makes connection for a second, otherwise you just have to go piece by piece testing everything. Still think it’s worth cleaning all grounds and batt connections, they can look good but not be making good contact, and that’s free. The frame ground is usually on the engine near the pull rope.
Posted on 1/30/25 at 7:47 am to Bucktail1
Im in New Roads right outside of BR. I work on atv's on the side. I can take a look at if for you if you want.
Posted on 1/31/25 at 12:32 am to Bucktail1
quote:
What else could it be??
Does it turn over and not fire or you get nothing at all?
I've hit the kill switch just enough before while getting off to make my bike not start all of a sudden.
Posted on 1/31/25 at 5:55 am to thejudge
No sound at all when you hit the starter. Only the red oil light will come on
Posted on 1/31/25 at 6:39 am to Bucktail1
Jump the starter solenoid with a screw driver across the 2 large post and see if it will start.
If it does check the small wire on the solenoid with a test light and make sure its getting a signal when you hit the starter button.
Google how to disable the neutral safety switch and see if it will start.
Quit throwing parts at it
If it does check the small wire on the solenoid with a test light and make sure its getting a signal when you hit the starter button.
Google how to disable the neutral safety switch and see if it will start.
Quit throwing parts at it
Posted on 1/31/25 at 7:08 am to Bucktail1
quote:
Only the red oil light will come on
That usually means you’re getting power and it’s a switch of some kind.
Try holding down the brake and see if it turns over. Also assuming it’s a manual stomp on the shifter a couple times and see if it “thinks” it’s not in neutral.
Posted on 1/31/25 at 7:30 am to greasemonkey
I jumped the solenoid and it turns over when I do that. I don’t have a test light, like I said, I’m not a great mechanic! Lol
This post was edited on 1/31/25 at 7:33 am
Posted on 1/31/25 at 7:34 am to TheDrunkenTigah
I’ve stomped on the shifter, taken it out of neutral, put it back in neutral and tried again and still the same thing.
I held the brake and tried to start but still nothing.
I held the brake and tried to start but still nothing.
Posted on 1/31/25 at 9:23 am to Bucktail1
How many fuses does it have?
Posted on 1/31/25 at 9:25 am to White Bear
Electrical troubleshooting 101
Go to the thing that ain't doing it's thing (starter) and see if it is getting power. If it is not, then start working backwards until you find what gizmo is stopping the power from getting to the starter.
Randomly changing parts will not fix it.
Go to the thing that ain't doing it's thing (starter) and see if it is getting power. If it is not, then start working backwards until you find what gizmo is stopping the power from getting to the starter.
Randomly changing parts will not fix it.
Posted on 1/31/25 at 9:44 am to Bucktail1
You’re doing more than most would know how to do, but you’ve come up against one of the biggest pain in the arse troubleshooting jobs that exists, which is random electrical bullshite. It’s gonna be some little signal wire or spade connector that is fried or lost connection. My next step would be to take the plastics off and start looking at every place the wiring harness makes connection with anything, but wouldn’t blame you for taking it to someone who knows where to look.
Posted on 1/31/25 at 10:28 am to White Bear
I’m not there right now to look, but it has about 3 10 amp and 3 15 amp fuses, then a 30 amp in line fuse
Posted on 1/31/25 at 10:37 am to Bucktail1
quote:Is that all of them?
I’m not there right now to look, but it has about 3 10 amp and 3 15 amp fuses, then a 30 amp in line fuse
What about the neutral switch/indicator, whatever. Does it double to tell when it’s in reverse?
But the hand brake should bypass this switch.
This post was edited on 1/31/25 at 10:39 am
Posted on 1/31/25 at 10:56 am to Bucktail1
Here's a link to the repair manual. It's too large to email or I'd give you address. The link is in the first response.
450 foreman manual link
450 foreman manual link
Posted on 1/31/25 at 11:46 am to Bucktail1
quote:
I jumped the solenoid and it turns over when I do that.
I assume it didn't start? If not, pull the spark plug and see if it's firing.
I had another 4 wheeler (not a Honda) that wasn't getting fire. A buddy gave it to me because he didn't feel like spending the money getting it fixed. Turns out the run/stop switch went bad. I wound up cutting the wires to it. Can't remember if I had to wire nut them together or leave them open, but it runs fine to this day, just have to use the key to turn it off.
Posted on 1/31/25 at 11:47 am to White Bear
It has a separate reverse light that will not light up either.
Posted on 1/31/25 at 11:56 am to REB BEER
I just changed the spark plug as well. I was in the process of doing a tuneup.
So far, I’ve changed spark plug, battery, air filter, solenoid, 30 amp fuse, and rectifier.
So far, I’ve changed spark plug, battery, air filter, solenoid, 30 amp fuse, and rectifier.
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