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re: What to look for in a used Jeep Wrangler?
Posted on 1/17/20 at 9:03 pm to Napoleon
Posted on 1/17/20 at 9:03 pm to Napoleon
TJ's with the 4.0l are notorious for rear main seal leaking and also valve covers leaking... If you go to see one, check the ground where it's parked and also look under the hood to see how much oil has been slung around the engine (if it's caked on everything under hood mostly).
Rear main seal job is about $500 in labor...
Rear main seal job is about $500 in labor...
Posted on 1/17/20 at 9:10 pm to Napoleon
quote:
Unless they are listing them wrong. But there is also no lever to the left of the stick shift either.
Yeah, I have a 2WD, or former 2WD. Technically, still is because I don't run with a front drive shaft most of the time.
A lot were snatched up for offroad builds.
You can always tell them driving by looking for the pumpkin. 2007 was the only year they were massively made for the public. They didn't sell well.
Posted on 1/17/20 at 9:12 pm to Napoleon
A 2012 or later with the 3.6 Pentastar.
Posted on 1/17/20 at 10:23 pm to greenbean
quote:
2012 or later with the 3.6 Pentastar
2013+ as the 2012s have AB head issues. Lifter guides will work themselves loose and eat into the cams.
Minimum 3.73s if you’re even considering 35s and trying to drive about 60 mph. C gussets and sleeves if you’re wheeling it and you’ll be fine.
The Rubicon Dana 44s and JK Dana 30s are exactly the same with the difference behind the pumpkin shape. Same weak points and housing wall thickness.
Posted on 1/17/20 at 10:26 pm to Cotten
quote:
The Rubicon Dana 44s and JK Dana 30s are exactly the same with the difference behind the pumpkin shape. Same weak points and housing wall thickness.
I was seeing if anyone else caught this.
The 44 gives you a better ring/pinon, but unless you are running 5.XX it won't matter much.
Better to sleeve (truss) and gusset if you are worried about running 35s.
This post was edited on 1/17/20 at 10:27 pm
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