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re: OT Electrician wiring question pt 2 update its FIXED

Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:21 am to
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:21 am to
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:28 am to
quote:

I thought about that but someone told me not to connect a hot and common.


This is true but with three way switches some wiring methods use the white as a switched hot and not a neutral. I personally hate to do that. I almost always do it this way

Posted by Roman Candle Tag
Member since Mar 2016
1550 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:35 am to
Anytime I use a white as an energized traveller I wrap a band or two of black electrical tape close to the ends of those leads. I like to think they a sort of heads up to whoever may be following me.
Posted by Kajungee
South ,Section 6 Row N
Member since Mar 2004
17033 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:36 am to
I haven't read all this, and not even sure what your problem is. But I will say it was common to wire a 3-way threw the fixture box with two 3- wires by using black and red as travelers and wiring black to black and red to red in the light box. With one white being used as the common and the other white wire used as the switch leg. When wired this way the fixture was connected to the two white wires, one of the white wire actually being Hot ( switch-leg)
Posted by Roman Candle Tag
Member since Mar 2016
1550 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:38 am to
To OP:

worst case scenario you could tear everything apart and test continuity at every termination, determining wire paths. That will give you a cut and dry picture of what you are dealing with.
Posted by mpar98
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2006
8041 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:43 am to
quote:

haven't read all this, and not even sure what your problem is. But I will say it was common to wire a 3-way threw the fixture box with two 3- wires by using black and red as travelers and wiring black to black and red to red in the light box. With one white being used as the common and the other white wire used as the switch leg. When wired this way the fixture was connected to the two white wires, one of the white wire actually being Hot ( switch-leg)

This sounds like it could be it...so why wouldnt it work when wired the same way now? Is there some other config that should be done?
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:45 am to
Indeed, that is also a method that has been used. I frown upon using the white in any form for AC power, particularly because of the situation the OP is in now. It is just too confusing down the road and the potential for problems/mistakes is much higher as a result. I did mean to mention to the OP that he should mark the white that is the traveler or that is the switch leg (did not consider that as a possibility, should have) with red or black electrical tape to identify t as not the neutral.

It does seem a little confusing because he left the red hooked up and it would seem he would have left any other through connect wire hooked up. Wish I could actually put my eyes on it.
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:52 am to
If that is the case, then you need to wire black to black and one white to one side of the light and one white to the other.

That would be worth a try actually, because you would eliminate the possibility of wiring a hot to a neutral that way.

A good check would be to look at the switch itself. If the white is on the common wire of either switch, this would be the way to wire it.
Posted by Kajungee
South ,Section 6 Row N
Member since Mar 2004
17033 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:02 pm to
I am a little confused as to what exactly you did.

Did you change switches and lights> It is possible you have power but lost the neutral somewhere in this process and you actually have a hot, yet no natural.

need a volt meter and determine first if you have power to ground anywhere and start from there.
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:14 pm to
I think he just changed the light, based on original post. My concern is that he inadvertently connected the neutral to a switched hot. He can't find a tripped breaker or GFCI though, so I'm a bit confused myself.

I don't think he has a meter but he does have an inductive power indicator That should indicate on the hot if power is present.

Posted by Roman Candle Tag
Member since Mar 2016
1550 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:19 pm to
Harbor freight has meters that test voltage and continuity for like $5. Hell they give em away free with a coupon sometimes. Not one I would rely on for my daily use, but $5 could make this job alot easier (and safer) for him.
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:19 pm to
quote:

Is there some other config that should be done?



I just thought about a place that may have a GFCI, your Garage (if you have one). Not really common to have the actual GFCI there but those circuits are usually on a GFCI so it could be. If your garage door opener (if you have one) is not working, that would be a good indicator.
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:21 pm to
it would definitely be good enough. He said he has a few friends with a little more electrical knowledge coming over to give him a hand and eat crawfish (not necessarily in that order, I think ). Perhaps they'll have what he needs.
Posted by mpar98
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2006
8041 posts
Posted on 3/27/16 at 9:02 am to
LINK

Heres a pic...not good but it is what it is

If that is the case, then you need to wire black to black and one white to one side of the light and one white to the other

Sounds like I could give this a shot huh?

As in one of the whites would be connected to the blacks?
This post was edited on 3/27/16 at 9:11 am
Posted by mpar98
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2006
8041 posts
Posted on 3/27/16 at 10:42 am to
Friendly bumpage
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/27/16 at 1:09 pm to
Did you get power back to the wires?

quote:

As in one of the whites would be connected to the blacks?



Nope, what i was thinking is to wire the 2 blacks together then wire the whites to the fixture wiring.

IF you are inclined to do so, if you can pull the switches (leave them wired and take pictures of them and the boxes, that would help immensely. But no harm in wiring the 2 blacks together and wiring the 2 whites up to the light fixture. You'll need one more wire nut though.

ETA: Picture so its easy for others to see.
This post was edited on 3/27/16 at 1:13 pm
Posted by mpar98
Baton Rouge
Member since Jan 2006
8041 posts
Posted on 3/27/16 at 2:11 pm to
Ok so its fixed...one of the whites was the hot...so capped the blacks and shoved them back in the ceiling...one white (the hot)to light black and the other white to light white. We had to take the switches off to figure this crap out...thanks guys for all the help
This post was edited on 3/27/16 at 2:12 pm
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/27/16 at 2:51 pm to
Glad you got it. Kajungee deserves some kudos for mentioning a white wire being the switched hot.
Posted by mdomingue
Lafayette, LA
Member since Nov 2010
48609 posts
Posted on 3/27/16 at 2:52 pm to
He got it, looks like you called it on this one.
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