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re: OT Electrician wiring question pt 2 update its FIXED
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:21 am to tidalmouse
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:21 am to tidalmouse
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:28 am to mpar98
quote:
I thought about that but someone told me not to connect a hot and common.
This is true but with three way switches some wiring methods use the white as a switched hot and not a neutral. I personally hate to do that. I almost always do it this way
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:35 am to mdomingue
Anytime I use a white as an energized traveller I wrap a band or two of black electrical tape close to the ends of those leads. I like to think they a sort of heads up to whoever may be following me.
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:36 am to mdomingue
I haven't read all this, and not even sure what your problem is. But I will say it was common to wire a 3-way threw the fixture box with two 3- wires by using black and red as travelers and wiring black to black and red to red in the light box. With one white being used as the common and the other white wire used as the switch leg. When wired this way the fixture was connected to the two white wires, one of the white wire actually being Hot ( switch-leg)
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:38 am to Roman Candle Tag
To OP:
worst case scenario you could tear everything apart and test continuity at every termination, determining wire paths. That will give you a cut and dry picture of what you are dealing with.
worst case scenario you could tear everything apart and test continuity at every termination, determining wire paths. That will give you a cut and dry picture of what you are dealing with.
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:43 am to Kajungee
quote:
haven't read all this, and not even sure what your problem is. But I will say it was common to wire a 3-way threw the fixture box with two 3- wires by using black and red as travelers and wiring black to black and red to red in the light box. With one white being used as the common and the other white wire used as the switch leg. When wired this way the fixture was connected to the two white wires, one of the white wire actually being Hot ( switch-leg)
This sounds like it could be it...so why wouldnt it work when wired the same way now? Is there some other config that should be done?
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:45 am to Kajungee
Indeed, that is also a method that has been used. I frown upon using the white in any form for AC power, particularly because of the situation the OP is in now. It is just too confusing down the road and the potential for problems/mistakes is much higher as a result. I did mean to mention to the OP that he should mark the white that is the traveler or that is the switch leg (did not consider that as a possibility, should have) with red or black electrical tape to identify t as not the neutral.
It does seem a little confusing because he left the red hooked up and it would seem he would have left any other through connect wire hooked up. Wish I could actually put my eyes on it.
It does seem a little confusing because he left the red hooked up and it would seem he would have left any other through connect wire hooked up. Wish I could actually put my eyes on it.
Posted on 3/26/16 at 11:52 am to mpar98
If that is the case, then you need to wire black to black and one white to one side of the light and one white to the other.
That would be worth a try actually, because you would eliminate the possibility of wiring a hot to a neutral that way.
A good check would be to look at the switch itself. If the white is on the common wire of either switch, this would be the way to wire it.
That would be worth a try actually, because you would eliminate the possibility of wiring a hot to a neutral that way.
A good check would be to look at the switch itself. If the white is on the common wire of either switch, this would be the way to wire it.
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:02 pm to mpar98
I am a little confused as to what exactly you did.
Did you change switches and lights> It is possible you have power but lost the neutral somewhere in this process and you actually have a hot, yet no natural.
need a volt meter and determine first if you have power to ground anywhere and start from there.
Did you change switches and lights> It is possible you have power but lost the neutral somewhere in this process and you actually have a hot, yet no natural.
need a volt meter and determine first if you have power to ground anywhere and start from there.
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:14 pm to Kajungee
I think he just changed the light, based on original post. My concern is that he inadvertently connected the neutral to a switched hot. He can't find a tripped breaker or GFCI though, so I'm a bit confused myself.
I don't think he has a meter but he does have an inductive power indicator That should indicate on the hot if power is present.
I don't think he has a meter but he does have an inductive power indicator That should indicate on the hot if power is present.
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:19 pm to mdomingue
Harbor freight has meters that test voltage and continuity for like $5. Hell they give em away free with a coupon sometimes. Not one I would rely on for my daily use, but $5 could make this job alot easier (and safer) for him.
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:19 pm to mpar98
quote:
Is there some other config that should be done?
I just thought about a place that may have a GFCI, your Garage (if you have one). Not really common to have the actual GFCI there but those circuits are usually on a GFCI so it could be. If your garage door opener (if you have one) is not working, that would be a good indicator.
Posted on 3/26/16 at 12:21 pm to Roman Candle Tag
it would definitely be good enough. He said he has a few friends with a little more electrical knowledge coming over to give him a hand and eat crawfish (not necessarily in that order, I think
). Perhaps they'll have what he needs.
Posted on 3/27/16 at 9:02 am to mdomingue
LINK
Heres a pic...not good but it is what it is
If that is the case, then you need to wire black to black and one white to one side of the light and one white to the other
Sounds like I could give this a shot huh?
As in one of the whites would be connected to the blacks?
Heres a pic...not good but it is what it is
If that is the case, then you need to wire black to black and one white to one side of the light and one white to the other
Sounds like I could give this a shot huh?
As in one of the whites would be connected to the blacks?
This post was edited on 3/27/16 at 9:11 am
Posted on 3/27/16 at 1:09 pm to mpar98
Did you get power back to the wires?
Nope, what i was thinking is to wire the 2 blacks together then wire the whites to the fixture wiring.
IF you are inclined to do so, if you can pull the switches (leave them wired and take pictures of them and the boxes, that would help immensely. But no harm in wiring the 2 blacks together and wiring the 2 whites up to the light fixture. You'll need one more wire nut though.
ETA: Picture so its easy for others to see.

quote:
As in one of the whites would be connected to the blacks?
Nope, what i was thinking is to wire the 2 blacks together then wire the whites to the fixture wiring.
IF you are inclined to do so, if you can pull the switches (leave them wired and take pictures of them and the boxes, that would help immensely. But no harm in wiring the 2 blacks together and wiring the 2 whites up to the light fixture. You'll need one more wire nut though.
ETA: Picture so its easy for others to see.

This post was edited on 3/27/16 at 1:13 pm
Posted on 3/27/16 at 2:11 pm to mdomingue
Ok so its fixed...one of the whites was the hot...so capped the blacks and shoved them back in the ceiling...one white (the hot)to light black and the other white to light white. We had to take the switches off to figure this crap out...thanks guys for all the help
This post was edited on 3/27/16 at 2:12 pm
Posted on 3/27/16 at 2:51 pm to mpar98
Glad you got it. Kajungee deserves some kudos for mentioning a white wire being the switched hot.
Posted on 3/27/16 at 2:52 pm to Kajungee
He got it, looks like you called it on this one.
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