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Guitar hardware question #3... So if I decide to solder??
Posted on 3/30/18 at 11:27 am
Posted on 3/30/18 at 11:27 am
This maybe for the outdoor board too? But only needed for guitar.
Which soldering iron would be needed? What is sufficient. I mean they have $200 soldering stations on Amazon and there are $7 pens. What is best?
I understand through a little research that soldering wire to the harness and "tabs" of the switch requires less heat than soldering grounds to the back of pots. So a variable temp/wattage iron looks best. What wattage does both jobs? Is 60W overkill. Can I buy an iron that is "too hot" for what I need.
The difference in price in all the things I am looking at is about 10 bucks. You are spending 20 or 30 bucks, or you are stepping up to Weller soldering stations that can go for $60-200?
Thanks in advance.
Which soldering iron would be needed? What is sufficient. I mean they have $200 soldering stations on Amazon and there are $7 pens. What is best?
I understand through a little research that soldering wire to the harness and "tabs" of the switch requires less heat than soldering grounds to the back of pots. So a variable temp/wattage iron looks best. What wattage does both jobs? Is 60W overkill. Can I buy an iron that is "too hot" for what I need.
The difference in price in all the things I am looking at is about 10 bucks. You are spending 20 or 30 bucks, or you are stepping up to Weller soldering stations that can go for $60-200?
Thanks in advance.
2
Posted on 3/30/18 at 12:08 pm to LSU alum wannabe
You are overthinking this.
You are more likely to screw up from lack of soldering experience/technique than from heat. It is a fairly simple solder joint. You aren’t soldering mega expensive, super sensitive electronics that need ultimate heat control.
Just melt the tin and be on your way.
Also, you should practice a little before messing with something you need or care about.
You are more likely to screw up from lack of soldering experience/technique than from heat. It is a fairly simple solder joint. You aren’t soldering mega expensive, super sensitive electronics that need ultimate heat control.
Just melt the tin and be on your way.
Also, you should practice a little before messing with something you need or care about.
Posted on 3/30/18 at 12:38 pm to Marco Esquandolas
quote:
You are overthinking this
Have you chimed in one of my guitar threads before? This is a “water is wet” point. Lol.
Thanks for the input afterward though. So a $29 kit with a 60w tip or adjustable to 60w is MORE than enough, but not hot enough to damage anything?
Yep. Plan on practicing.
This post was edited on 3/30/18 at 12:58 pm
Posted on 3/30/18 at 5:36 pm to LSU alum wannabe
I like the 60w Weller iron at Lowe's if I was going to recommend a first iron.
I don't care if you're using 60 watts or 6000, you can fry stuff if you stay in/on too long, particularly capacitors. Get the business done and get the heat out of there. I use alligator clips as heat sinks/isolators if I'm working with or around vintage capacitors.
Watch YouTube videos on tinning your iron tip and keep it tinned, clean, non-rusty. Very important for getting quality, clean looking results.
Remember too that interchangeable tips exist for a reason. I usually use a sharp pointed tip for guitar cavity work.
For soldering stubborn pot backs and especially tremolo claws ...
a.) clean leftover/trace manufacturing lubricants off the pot backs with rubbing alcohol and a rag before you begin work.
b.) take an ice pick or a nail and scratch tic-tac-toes or X-like shapes at the solder contact point, or abrade with some coarse sandpaper. AKA, give the surface itself better ability to grasp the solder.
I don't care if you're using 60 watts or 6000, you can fry stuff if you stay in/on too long, particularly capacitors. Get the business done and get the heat out of there. I use alligator clips as heat sinks/isolators if I'm working with or around vintage capacitors.
Watch YouTube videos on tinning your iron tip and keep it tinned, clean, non-rusty. Very important for getting quality, clean looking results.
Remember too that interchangeable tips exist for a reason. I usually use a sharp pointed tip for guitar cavity work.
For soldering stubborn pot backs and especially tremolo claws ...
a.) clean leftover/trace manufacturing lubricants off the pot backs with rubbing alcohol and a rag before you begin work.
b.) take an ice pick or a nail and scratch tic-tac-toes or X-like shapes at the solder contact point, or abrade with some coarse sandpaper. AKA, give the surface itself better ability to grasp the solder.
Posted on 3/30/18 at 6:32 pm to TheFretShack
^^^^^
Everything he just said.
Everything he just said.
Posted on 3/30/18 at 7:16 pm to LSU alum wannabe
When I solder a insulated wire to a terminal such as the lead from a pickup to a pot or switch, and the wire has PVC plastic insulation, after stripping the insulation off, and exposing the needed amount of bare wire I place a piece of heat shrink tubing with a diameter just slightly larger than the wire and maybe 1/4" to 3/8" long over the wire insulation up to where the exposed wire starts. This helps greatly to prevent the insulation from melting back as you solder and gives a nice finished appearance to the connection. I wish manufacturers would use Teflon insulated wire on everything, doesn't melt.
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