Welders, need assistance on grounding

not real sure what your question here about a welding table is but you connect the ground lead to whatever metal you're welding

the metal weld table simply allows current to run thru it to the piece you're welding. It's best to ground directly to the piece you are welding.

No offense intended but if you have to ask this question then the rest is worth bringing up, what does the rest of your setup look like?

Even though the welder has a normal 110V plug on it, it's going to draw a shite load of amps to even put a puny weld on rebar. Ideally you need to be on a 20 amp dedicated circuit, and if that's not an option you need to take steps to turn off anything else drawing power on that circuit while the welder is running. It's still not a great idea.

I'm not a pro by any means but I've significantly decreased the shittiness of my flux core welds by using a mapp gas torch to preheat the area before welding and grinding all bonding surfaces down to clean metal before.

I would highly suggest moving this operation to the garage or renting/borrowing a generator. Very good chance you'll burn up the timer box, or worse.

A 20 amp plug will look like this:
You can verify by looking in the breaker box if you know the circuit the outlet is on. Bare minimum you will need a 15 amp outlet and breaker, which is much more common. You want to be as close to the breaker panel as possible. On a 15 amp circuit you will likely trip the breaker a lot unless you weld in short bursts, or something is going to melt. Extension cords are a no-no unless they cost more than the welder likely did.

Flux core welders are meant to weld very thin material, and rebar is by no definition thin. It still can be done but you will need to take steps to help yourself. You're on the right track with the grinder but I would also clamp the two pieces of rebar together, and maybe notch them a bit so they fit together pretty snug. Welding two round objects together is going to be a pain in the arse. Grind clean the area where your ground clamp is so it will make good contact. Heat the ever living shite out the rebar with a torch and your welds will stick much better. Be prepared to go slow and work in 5 minute intervals, which is likely the duty cycle of your welder at max amps.

Not trying to discourage you, but I recently learned all of this the hard way myself. There's a good reason that a proper welding setup costs thousands of dollars, but as long as you don't expect it to be pretty you can get by.

I thought they were preferable for thicker materials. That's what I'm reading anyway. I had thought about overlapping the rebar and then welding some flat stock to both sides. Not sure if that makes sense.

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No offense intended but if you have to ask this question then the rest is worth bringing up, what does the rest of your setup look like?

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I would modify your statement to say, "if you have to ask this question, then you have no business turning on a welder."

To the OP, you are getting a lot of advice without anyone even bothering to ask what welder you have, how many amps it draws, its power rating and duty cycle. The duty cycle probably doesn't matter much, or shouldn't for the types of welds you are describing, but you need to know the answer the to the question you are asking, and probably many more that you should ask, before you start this project.

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To the OP, you are getting a lot of advice without anyone even bothering to ask what welder you have, how many amps it draws, its power rating and duty cycle.

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He stated it’s a flux core machine, and almost across the board they have roughly the same specs on the entry level models. All that differs between them is the quality of the wire feed and nick nacks in the box. Without looking at it I can tell you it will put out about 80 amps at 18V with a 20% duty cycle drawing 20 amps out of the wall. He will have the amp dial all the way up to get any penetration in rebar, which is why I started off telling him to get the power source squared away first. All the box stores have been selling these entry level flux core machines for a couple years now, so not that hard to figure out what OP is working with. Nothing wrong with the guy asking questions.

Thanks guys. I have this one by the way...
LINK

The work lead is not grounding the metal anyway. It’s simply completing the circuit to either the positive polarity stud on the machine. You can clamp it to the workpiece or the metal table - doesn’t really matter as long as there’s a good conductive path. The machine frame is grounded through it’s own plug.

I would clean the rebar with a hard rock or flap disk to give yourself the best advantage you can. Watch a few welding tips and tricks YouTube videos and let it rip.