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Staircase structural support question
Posted on 8/21/23 at 2:58 pm
Posted on 8/21/23 at 2:58 pm
I have a split landing staircase that I would like to renovate under to add a bathroom.
My question is how important is the beam labeled “1” in the photo. Obviously important without modifications but if I put a stud wall on the left and right sides of the landing can I remove or reduce the beam labeled “1” to a 2x4?
The photos are representative of the real staircase
My question is how important is the beam labeled “1” in the photo. Obviously important without modifications but if I put a stud wall on the left and right sides of the landing can I remove or reduce the beam labeled “1” to a 2x4?
The photos are representative of the real staircase
3
Posted on 8/21/23 at 3:44 pm to Knuckle Checker
I'm pretty confused on where you plan on having this bathroom but...
You could shore the joists, remove the ledger, build a wall with double top plate up to 3.5" below the top of the joists, replace the ledger with a 4x4 sill plate, and use top mounted hangers to support the landing joists.
Again, confused on if the space under the landing is what you want to convert to a bathroom because there is no head clearance. Unless y'all are midgets? In which case I'm gonna need some pics.
You could shore the joists, remove the ledger, build a wall with double top plate up to 3.5" below the top of the joists, replace the ledger with a 4x4 sill plate, and use top mounted hangers to support the landing joists.
Again, confused on if the space under the landing is what you want to convert to a bathroom because there is no head clearance. Unless y'all are midgets? In which case I'm gonna need some pics.
Posted on 8/21/23 at 3:51 pm to Knuckle Checker
I'm interested as well. What are you gaining by changing this to a 2x4 other than a few inches? FWIW, i would do like the other poster suggested and hang it from above, you can use flat bar or angle to suspend that crossmember.
I've been knee deep in hanging stair design since i decided to build this contraption to allow me to still use my garage stall while having stairs for attic access. Definitely one of those "WTF am i thinking" projects but i'm almost done!
I've been knee deep in hanging stair design since i decided to build this contraption to allow me to still use my garage stall while having stairs for attic access. Definitely one of those "WTF am i thinking" projects but i'm almost done!
This post was edited on 8/21/23 at 3:54 pm
Posted on 8/21/23 at 3:56 pm to junkfunky
quote:
Again, confused on if the space under the landing is what you want to convert to a bathroom because there is no head clearance. Unless y'all are midgets? In which case I'm gonna need some pics.
There is currently 74.5 inches of clearance under the landing. I need to create 8 inches of space under the landing to get me to the 82.5 inches necessary for an exterior door. The framing directly under the landing is made of 2x12s. If I can get this framing under the landing to be made of 2x4s I would have the clearance needed.
If I add a stud wall under the right and left sides of the landing it should be completely supported on 3 sides. In which case I don’t see why 2x12 support under the landing is necessary.
Posted on 8/21/23 at 3:59 pm to Knuckle Checker
Cut the door
Posted on 8/21/23 at 4:02 pm to Knuckle Checker
Assuming the landing is about 3' wide you probably could get decent performance from 2x4s at 12" centers. I'd have to run the numbers though to see what deflection to expect. How think is your deck going to be?
Posted on 8/21/23 at 4:05 pm to Knuckle Checker
quote:
Knuckle Checker
why not reverse the landings so it turns to the left instead of right?
move top over to the left and bottom over to the right. that way the space is easier to access and use then what you have in mind
that, or cut the door and guests just need to duck if they are over 6ft tall
Posted on 8/21/23 at 4:55 pm to junkfunky
quote:
How think is your deck going to be?
What part are you calling the deck? The square framing of 2x12s under the landing? Or the plywood and wood floor on top?
Sorry it’s probably my fault I’m not more familiar with the terminology.
For others in the thread, I can’t reverse the layout because my house is already built. I’m just using these pictures as a representation to show you what part I want to alter
Posted on 8/21/23 at 5:02 pm to keakar
quote:
that, or cut the door and guests just need to duck if they are over 6ft tall
I wouldn’t mind at all but it won’t be up to code. An exterior door needs to be 80 inches tall.
Posted on 8/21/23 at 5:35 pm to Knuckle Checker
quote:
I wouldn’t mind at all but it won’t be up to code. An exterior door needs to be 80 inches tall.
i keep losing you with this "exterior door" you want to install in the middle of your room
nothing in that picture is an exterior wall, so if its completely different then the picture, why show us that picture?
This post was edited on 8/21/23 at 5:37 pm
Posted on 8/21/23 at 5:42 pm to Knuckle Checker
Looks like non-egress exterior doors can be 76”.
ETA: per code
But, f da code.
ETA: per code
But, f da code.
This post was edited on 8/21/23 at 5:44 pm
Posted on 8/21/23 at 5:44 pm to keakar
quote:
i keep losing you with this "exterior door" you want to install in the middle of your room nothing in that picture is an exterior wall, so if its completely different then the picture, why show us that picture?
The picture in the OP is the best representation of the framing of the stairs I could find. The walls are currently sheetrocked and a picture isn’t going to show you what is going on. The framing of the stairs is similar OTHER THAN the beam labeled “1” is on an exterior wall that I want to add and exterior door to.
This post was edited on 8/21/23 at 5:46 pm
Posted on 8/21/23 at 5:46 pm to poochie
quote:
Looks like non-egress exterior doors can be 76”.
It will be the only exit to the room. I am assuming that would be classified as an egress door, correct?
This post was edited on 8/21/23 at 5:47 pm
Posted on 8/21/23 at 6:41 pm to Knuckle Checker
Man, I’m trying to figure this out but I’m stumped.
Firstly, what’s the deal with exterior door?
Secondly if you manage to get this to work, you’ll have a bathroom with an 80” ceiling. Remember 80” is without trim. Then if it’s a bathroom you’re going to jam a light figure and a vent in that 3.5”? Plus this is what I would assume is a heavily used landing. Then where’s the toilet going? Sink? Any plumbing roughed in?
Plus it would likely have to be an out swinging exterior door.
Just seems like you’re trying to squeeze 10 pounds of shite in a 5 pound sack. I’m all about solving problems like this but I’m stumped.
Firstly, what’s the deal with exterior door?
Secondly if you manage to get this to work, you’ll have a bathroom with an 80” ceiling. Remember 80” is without trim. Then if it’s a bathroom you’re going to jam a light figure and a vent in that 3.5”? Plus this is what I would assume is a heavily used landing. Then where’s the toilet going? Sink? Any plumbing roughed in?
Plus it would likely have to be an out swinging exterior door.
Just seems like you’re trying to squeeze 10 pounds of shite in a 5 pound sack. I’m all about solving problems like this but I’m stumped.
This post was edited on 8/21/23 at 7:35 pm
Posted on 8/21/23 at 7:27 pm to Knuckle Checker
quote:
It will be the only exit to the room.
im pretty sure egress is a defined entry or exit door to the house, not from doorways between interior spaces
Posted on 8/22/23 at 6:28 am to poochie
quote:
Man, I’m trying to figure this out but I’m stumped.
Here is a 3D drawing that might help clear some things up. The first 3 pictures are current framing. Proposed changes are in red. The downstairs ceilings are 12 feet.
This would be a small bathroom with an outside entrance for a pool.
Posted on 8/22/23 at 6:42 am to Knuckle Checker
Is the plumbing roughed in?
If so, remove the current stair framing from the bottom first to the first landing. Remove the first landing and install it the same height as the second landing for one big wide landing. Extend the bottom stairs one step further at the bottom.
If so, remove the current stair framing from the bottom first to the first landing. Remove the first landing and install it the same height as the second landing for one big wide landing. Extend the bottom stairs one step further at the bottom.
Posted on 8/22/23 at 6:50 am to poochie
Everything is already built. This is a remodel. I know it seems crazy but there are reasons I can’t put an outside bathroom anywhere else.
Posted on 8/22/23 at 6:56 am to Knuckle Checker
Is the plumbing roughed in?
If this is a remodel, who you worried about coming check how tall your door is?
If this is a remodel, who you worried about coming check how tall your door is?
This post was edited on 8/22/23 at 7:08 am
Posted on 8/22/23 at 7:18 am to poochie
quote:
Is the plumbing roughed in? If this is a remodel, who you worried about coming check how tall your door is?
No plumbing is not roughed in.
I would prefer to do it by code so I don’t have to rip it all out if I ever sell the house. If there is absolutely no way to do it up to code then that’s what I will do.
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