- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Siberian/Chinese Elms sprouting everywhere - best management options?
Posted on 8/7/26 at 10:28 am
Posted on 8/7/26 at 10:28 am
So, got into our house a few years ago. It took several months for me to notice all these little saplings sprouting in the yard and then a few more months to notice decent size saplings sprouting up through the ornamental bushes around the yard.
I noticed these saplings had leaves that looked exactly like the Siberian Elm trees in my and my neighbor's yards. Reading up on them revealed they are very prolific and spread by dropping seeds and by suckering from their root system.
The question I have is besides treating the lawn to help keep them down is pruning the best option to keep them at bay inside the ornamental bushes? That's what the previous owner did for years apparently; some of them are a few inches in diameter at the base.
I noticed these saplings had leaves that looked exactly like the Siberian Elm trees in my and my neighbor's yards. Reading up on them revealed they are very prolific and spread by dropping seeds and by suckering from their root system.
The question I have is besides treating the lawn to help keep them down is pruning the best option to keep them at bay inside the ornamental bushes? That's what the previous owner did for years apparently; some of them are a few inches in diameter at the base.
Posted on 8/7/26 at 11:08 am to SparkyWilson
I have the same problem from a neighbor’s Chinese elm. If they are too large to pull up by hand (they have deep taproot so even small ones are hard to pull out) I cut them at ground level and “paint” (cheap artist’s brush or smallest, cheap “throw away” paint brush from the big box stores) the exposed stem Immediately with concentrated trichlopyr herbicide. The herbicide must be applied to the fresh exposed surface. The herbicide is translocated to the root and kills the sapling, obviously preventing re-sprouting.
This post was edited on 8/7/26 at 3:29 pm
Posted on 8/7/26 at 11:13 am to CrawDude
quote:
I have the same problem from a neighbor’s Chinese elm. If they are too large to pull up by hand (they have deep taproot so even small ones are hard to pull out) I cut them at ground level and “paint” (cheap artist’s brush or smallest, cheap “throw away” paint brush from the big box stores) the exposed stem Immediately with concentrated trichlopyr herbicide. The herbicide must be applied to the fresh exposed surface. The herbicide is translocated to the root and kills the sapling, obliviously preventing re-sprouting.
Ah, I hadn't considered that. Immediately after it rains, I make the rounds to and pull all the small ones I can.
I check out the hardware store for a trichlopyr herbicide. Painting is defintely enough? Would I need to drill into a bigger one?
Posted on 8/7/26 at 11:49 am to SparkyWilson
quote:
I check out the hardware store for a trichlopyr herbicide. Painting is defintely enough? Would I need to drill into a bigger one?
Good retail garden centers and some hardware stores will have it - look for something like Bonide Stump and Vine Killer. It actually has a small brush attached to the cap. LINK
Yes painting is enough, no need to drill holes. Actually, you only need to apply the herbicide to the outer edge of the bark - it contains the cells that transport the herbicide to the roots (technically it is the “phloem”, and it lies directly underneath the bark), the inner sapwood is strictly structural. But we are talking saplings so you don’t have to get fancy…..lol. But for a 2 or 3 inch dia sapling just paint the outer bark on the freshly cut wound so as to not waste the herbicide.
Posted on 8/7/26 at 12:14 pm to CrawDude
quote:
Good retail garden centers and some hardware stores will have it - look for something like Bonide Stump and Vine Killer. It actually has a small brush attached to the cap. LINK
Yes painting is enough, no need to drill holes. Actually, you only need to apply the herbicide to the outer edge of the bark - it contains the cells that transport the herbicide to the roots (technically it is the “phloem”, and it lies directly underneath the bark), the inner sapwood is strictly structural. But we are talking saplings so you don’t have to get fancy…..lol. But for a 2 or 3 inch dia sapling just paint the outer bark on the freshly cut wound so as to not waste the herbicide.
Awesome. Thank you!
Popular
Back to top
1





