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Rotary mower guys: How low can I go?
Posted on 3/25/25 at 7:15 pm
Posted on 3/25/25 at 7:15 pm
Starting year two of having a badass lawn. Last year I used a manual reel and it kicked my butt, but it kept me in shape. I had to give up after leaving town a couple times and never being able to get the height back down where I wanted it.
I want to keep my bermuda at 1” again this year but might try the rotary for a break. Will this do any damage? Would 1.25 be better? I just rotary cut to 1” for dethatching/compost dressing and the cut actually looks really good but doesn’t have that softness I get with the reel. Grass is still mostly brown.
Mower is deer x300 42”.
ETA: I’m reading only northern, shallow root stuff like bent grass technically “need” a reel mower to be cut low, but I’m wondering what people’s results have been like.
I want to keep my bermuda at 1” again this year but might try the rotary for a break. Will this do any damage? Would 1.25 be better? I just rotary cut to 1” for dethatching/compost dressing and the cut actually looks really good but doesn’t have that softness I get with the reel. Grass is still mostly brown.
Mower is deer x300 42”.
ETA: I’m reading only northern, shallow root stuff like bent grass technically “need” a reel mower to be cut low, but I’m wondering what people’s results have been like.
This post was edited on 3/25/25 at 7:37 pm
Posted on 3/25/25 at 7:55 pm to Dallaswho
Rotary won’t harm your Bermuda, but obviously it won’t provide the cleanest cut. Scalp on lowest setting and maintain at one notch above.
So it sounds like 1.25 will be your maintenance HOC. And that should allow for a good looking lawn.
Edit: Your biggest issue may be scalping. Rotary will scalp way worse than the cylinder of a reel, which follows the contours of the ground much better.
Low rotary mowers are unforgiving unless you’re really leveled.
So it sounds like 1.25 will be your maintenance HOC. And that should allow for a good looking lawn.
Edit: Your biggest issue may be scalping. Rotary will scalp way worse than the cylinder of a reel, which follows the contours of the ground much better.
Low rotary mowers are unforgiving unless you’re really leveled.
This post was edited on 3/26/25 at 11:20 am
Posted on 3/26/25 at 11:19 am to bayoubengals88
Thanks. I can definitely see a couple spots where scalping might be an issue once the yard greens. I’m only on year two of leveling and only using compost. I’ll have to experiment.
That’s another mystery: so when I add sand to my clay, in the bare areas like under trees, it turns rock hard. Can I assume the roots will help the turf areas stay loamy even with clay/sand mix or should I stick with organic dressing?
That’s another mystery: so when I add sand to my clay, in the bare areas like under trees, it turns rock hard. Can I assume the roots will help the turf areas stay loamy even with clay/sand mix or should I stick with organic dressing?
Posted on 3/26/25 at 11:34 am to Dallaswho
quote:You're in the Dallas area?
so when I add sand to my clay, in the bare areas like under trees, it turns rock hard. Can I assume the roots will help the turf areas stay loamy even with clay/sand mix or should I stick with organic dressing?
I would try manually aerating and adding something like a humic dg over the next year or two.
Ultimately, you'll need sand to level. I don't think there's anyway around it.
The compost will not last as a leveling agent as it completely breaks down over time.
Posted on 3/26/25 at 8:38 pm to bayoubengals88
You might also look into PGRs, plant growth regulators, to cut down on your mowing frequency. I’m going to venture into it this season.
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