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Started By
Message
New tankless water heater
Posted on 5/14/26 at 11:33 am
Posted on 5/14/26 at 11:33 am
So, I plan on putting a tankless water heater in the attic of my home. I live in a two story home and the plumber who is quoting to install the gas lines says I need to increase the pressure at the meter to 1psi from the current 0.5psi or ill starve my stove and other utilities and I wont get gas upstairs. This would involve increasing1 psi at the meter and installing a regulator for upstairs and downstairs utilities to bring it back down to 0.5psi. He says we have to drop it back down to 0.5psi or I will end up with possible leaks because of the step-up in pressure. I have a hard time believing a 0.5 psi increase will result in any leaks. Does any of this sound legit. I'm going to get a second opinion, but I thought I would ask the HG board. BTW, he is quoting me $3k for 40ft of pipe, two regulators, some elbows, and a ball valve termination. Thanks
7
Posted on 5/14/26 at 11:57 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
That price doesn't include install of the new on demand water heater?
Posted on 5/14/26 at 12:05 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
Can you install it elsewhere? You have to flush it once a year, maybe even flush it every 6 months depending on your water. I'd put it in a convenient spot keeping that in mind. Make sure a flush kit is installed too...
Posted on 5/14/26 at 1:16 pm to wickowick
This price is just to run the line to the attic and not the water heater. The eventual water heater would have a catch pan underneath for leaks and flushings. The water here in south carolina is pretty soft so flushings aren't really frequent.
Posted on 5/14/26 at 9:30 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
Normally a hone has about 7-10” WC gas pressure.
If you want to add a water heater in the attic you have to determine the developed length of the gas system, add up the total load and size your piping accordingly.
I’m guessing he recommended increasing the gas pressure and using regulators so you could use the piping you had. But it is more complicated and without knowing exactly what you have it’s hard to know what is best.
If you want to add a water heater in the attic you have to determine the developed length of the gas system, add up the total load and size your piping accordingly.
I’m guessing he recommended increasing the gas pressure and using regulators so you could use the piping you had. But it is more complicated and without knowing exactly what you have it’s hard to know what is best.
Posted on 5/14/26 at 9:57 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
I'd be asking myself if all this trouble is worth unlimited hot water.
Posted on 5/14/26 at 10:22 pm to Turnblad85
Ive had tankless before. Im back to traditional and wont go back. Theres a reason it hasnt changed in 50 years. Its simple and reliable.
Posted on 5/15/26 at 8:58 am to AtticusOSullivan
Yea, this post really isn't about the water heater itself. I'm trying to figure out if this estimate seems reasonable and the reasoning seems legit. I guess no one here really knows.
Posted on 5/15/26 at 9:37 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
quote:it is unknowable without an assessment of your current situation. Your best bet is to get another plumber to quote
I guess no one here really knows.
Posted on 5/15/26 at 7:00 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
I can tell you this, I have a Rinnai RX180in 180,000 btu
Its about 15ft from my meter. 10ft before it I have my generator plug in for a 9000 watt inverter. I run them both at the same time. They are on the same 1in gas line with no special regulator or service. Neither one starves the other when running at the same time. Hopefully that gives you some kind of idea?
I do know that after building home made crawfish boiler rigs that run off of natural gas and converting other things from propane, NG is very volume dependent. I always opt to plumb things on the fatter side if I am unsure...example, if tankless calls for 3/4" gas pipe, I might err on the side of caution and run 1" if possible.
Dont know how to answer what it is that you are asking unfortunately...maybe look up a chart that sizes pipe run length, psi, diameter, and BTU capacity.
Its about 15ft from my meter. 10ft before it I have my generator plug in for a 9000 watt inverter. I run them both at the same time. They are on the same 1in gas line with no special regulator or service. Neither one starves the other when running at the same time. Hopefully that gives you some kind of idea?
I do know that after building home made crawfish boiler rigs that run off of natural gas and converting other things from propane, NG is very volume dependent. I always opt to plumb things on the fatter side if I am unsure...example, if tankless calls for 3/4" gas pipe, I might err on the side of caution and run 1" if possible.
Dont know how to answer what it is that you are asking unfortunately...maybe look up a chart that sizes pipe run length, psi, diameter, and BTU capacity.
This post was edited on 5/15/26 at 7:32 pm
Posted on 5/16/26 at 10:39 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
Tank > tankless
Posted on 5/17/26 at 1:57 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
Dont mount it on floor! You will be on your knees flushing it once a year, ask me how I know, got 2 of them. Plumb a drain pipe tying into sewer line, ac drain line or outside so you can dump vinegar after flushing, much easier than carrying full bucket of it down a attic ladder. Also if you got well water, a good home water filter help reduce scaling. My 2 cents
This post was edited on 5/17/26 at 2:22 pm
Posted on 5/17/26 at 9:48 pm to GoAwayImBaitn
quote:
I do know that after building home made crawfish boiler rigs that run off of natural gas and converting other things from propane, NG is very volume dependent
I have NG line with a quick connect on my back patio and would love to use it for crawfish boiling, but was told the pressure would be too low.
Is there a converter or fittings to use that would make the NG useable vs. using propane?
Posted on 5/17/26 at 10:14 pm to LeGrosChat
quote:
I have NG line with a quick connect on my back patio and would love to use it for crawfish boiling, but was told the pressure would be too low.
Is there a converter or fittings to use that would make the NG useable vs. using propane?
I use a MB Sturgis 3/4 quick connect coming right off the meter pretty much. This fitting has a true 3/4" throat. Very important for flow.
I use a Fill Rite 3/4" fuel transfer hose. Its heavy duty black rubber with a metal coil in the center (not necessary) but way cheaper than some Natural Gas hoses. I've been using this setup 10 years with no issues. Throws out massive amounts of heat with a 32 jet wok burner placed into a big turkey fryer stand. Its super quiet too. Boils just as fast if not faster than a propane jet burner.
This post was edited on 5/17/26 at 10:16 pm
Posted on 5/18/26 at 10:06 pm to GoAwayImBaitn
quote:
I use a MB Sturgis 3/4 quick connect coming right off the meter pretty much. This fitting has a true 3/4" throat. Very important for flow.
Great, thanks for all the advice. I am going to mine set up like this. Cheers, appreciate it.
Posted on 5/19/26 at 10:24 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
quote:
Yea, this post really isn't about the water heater itself. I'm trying to figure out if this estimate seems reasonable and the reasoning seems legit. I guess no one here really knows.
Regulators that size arent that expensive. Having a gas leak in your home is a problem you want to avoid much more than the cost of having a regulator put in. You could be getting taken for a ride but you have to trust the plumber if your dealing with a gas line.
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