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Help me repair copper propane tubing

Posted on 12/1/21 at 8:35 am
Posted by PTBob
Member since Nov 2010
7071 posts
Posted on 12/1/21 at 8:35 am
The gas line coming from my propane tank that goes to our gas fireplace broke when I was reattaching after I refilled the tank.



I want to repair myself if possible, but I need help and advice. I purchased



I need some help on fittings to splice the lines together.

Or should I not bother and call a plumber?
Posted by Unobtanium
Baton Rouge
Member since Nov 2009
1593 posts
Posted on 12/1/21 at 9:11 am to
Since you have a flaring tool, you should be able to find brass flared fittings at most hardware stores and/or big box stores.

I don't remember if standard compression fittings (Swagelok, Gyrolok, etc.) are legal for indoor gas service.
Posted by Tiger-Striped-Bass
The Bay Area
Member since Dec 2004
1266 posts
Posted on 12/1/21 at 9:36 am to
My point of reference is like yours-industrial compression fittings, and I wouldn't have even considered the code-legality of using those since they are rated for thousands of pounds. The pics show that this is outdoors and I wouldn't hesitate for second using a standard compression nut/ferrule union and skipping the flaring. But they're not easily available outside of a plant.

I would suggest going to a local Ace Hardware/True Value hardware type store. They'll have the union you need and will have it in hand while they explain to you what to do. Tell them you have a flaring tool and cutter already. That will probably be more helpful than trying to explain here and you need the union anyway. Your cutter is good. Just make sure you don't over tighten too much at once to deform the soft copper. Tighten in small increments and make a few rotations between. This is a very simple repair
Posted by Tiger-Striped-Bass
The Bay Area
Member since Dec 2004
1266 posts
Posted on 12/1/21 at 9:46 am to
This would be a non-flare compression union. It says it's rated for 200psi. I assume those are inserts in the centers that would go inside of your tube ends so that the ferrule bites against something solid and doesn't squeeze the copper out of shape. Industrial fittings generally don't have that. This is what I would use in your case, and return the flare tool kit. Just cut your ends, slide your nut and ferrule over it first, then install the inserts into the ends. Then insert your tube into the fitting body making sure it goes in all the way to the stop and stays there as you then tighten the nut. Get it pretty tight where it bites good. But don't go crazy. Once complete, put pressure on it and check for leaks with soapy water. Again, this is a very simple fix




LINK
This post was edited on 12/1/21 at 9:48 am
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
15096 posts
Posted on 12/1/21 at 9:54 am to
Why not just replace the entire line and be done with it? The more connections you make, the more of a chance for leaks in the future.


They make a spring-like sleeve to fit over copper and aluminum tubing that allows you to bend it to fit your needs without kinking it. You slide it over the tubing, bend it to the shape you need to get the connection----90/45 degree bends, u-shaped bends etc. and then remove the sleeve.


I've used these different size sleeves many times to make up brake lines out of aluminum or copper over the years and it works great.
Posted by PTBob
Member since Nov 2010
7071 posts
Posted on 12/1/21 at 1:53 pm to
Thanks for the replies. Replacing is an option too. I work in patient care and a patient told me that it really should be black pipe and not copper pipe. Not sure how reliable he is. Any truth to this?
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
15096 posts
Posted on 12/1/21 at 3:37 pm to
quote:

I work in patient care and a patient told me that it really should be black pipe



Almost all gas appliances in my house have a flex type line from the black pipe that comes from the meter to all areas of the house with gas appliances.

My stove, oven and dryer all have flexible lines finishing the supply to them and each has a gas shut-off valve on the black pipe in case there is a leak so it can isolate the leak and not have to shut down the whole house.

You are using a portable propane tank to supply the fireplace, so it would be ideal to use a flexible line to facilitate removing the line and replacing it when needing to fill the tank.

What I would do is run black pipe as close to the propane tank as I could and then run a flex line from the tank to the black pipe. I really would not use copper since it it easily broken-----as you now know and easily kinked. You'd probably do better just using one of those stainless steel lines like those that are used for a crawfish pot or gas BBQ pit.
Posted by Unobtanium
Baton Rouge
Member since Nov 2009
1593 posts
Posted on 12/1/21 at 7:38 pm to
Per this website copper is acceptable in propane service. Take that info for what it's worth.

If replacing the entire tubing run is practical and fairly cheap (copper is high as a cat's back right now), that would be my first choice. If changing propane tanks is a regular activity, I might even add a piece of stainless flex hose between the tank and the copper tubing.
Posted by gumbo2176
Member since May 2018
15096 posts
Posted on 12/2/21 at 11:44 am to
quote:

Per this website copper is acceptable in propane service. Take that info for what it's worth.



It may be acceptable, but not very practical since it is so easily kinked and broken as per the OP's situation.

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