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Fall/Winter Lawn planning?
Posted on 8/1/26 at 9:39 am
Posted on 8/1/26 at 9:39 am
Couple of questions:
When to put down pre emergent in BTR area and once or twice a few months later?
Any value to putting down winterizer fertilizer in BTR area? if so, when?
I have used pre-emerg before but never more than once in a season and have not been consistent. I retired earlier this year and worked hard on weed control and grass health this year. Trying to keep the flame burning into next season.
When to put down pre emergent in BTR area and once or twice a few months later?
Any value to putting down winterizer fertilizer in BTR area? if so, when?
I have used pre-emerg before but never more than once in a season and have not been consistent. I retired earlier this year and worked hard on weed control and grass health this year. Trying to keep the flame burning into next season.
Posted on 8/1/26 at 10:52 am to GetmorewithLes
In the BTR area, apply in late Sept/early Oct, right before soil temperature cools to 70 F, germination temperature of annual bluegrass seeds (Poa annua). Then apply again in early-mid Feb, when soil temperatures warm to 55 F, the germination temperature for crabgrass seeds.
Two most common pre-emergents recommended on this board, and they are both good, are Prodiamine (Barricade) and Dithiopyr (Dimension). Those two will control the vast majority of annual lawn weeds, but not all.
Now, if you do have particular problems with certain weeds in your lawn, more so than others, let us know as we might suggest another application of a different pre-emergent herbicide at a different time of the year to target those weeds not controlled by Prodiamine or Dimension. For example Doveweed is a problem for me, not controlled by Prodiamine or Dimension, so I apply Specticle pre-emergent herbicide in late April to target that weed.
Also remember, pre-emergents needed to be watered in to activate them, and move the herbicide into the soil were the weed seeds are located, so consider applying the product before a good rain or water them with sprinklers soon after application.
Two most common pre-emergents recommended on this board, and they are both good, are Prodiamine (Barricade) and Dithiopyr (Dimension). Those two will control the vast majority of annual lawn weeds, but not all.
Now, if you do have particular problems with certain weeds in your lawn, more so than others, let us know as we might suggest another application of a different pre-emergent herbicide at a different time of the year to target those weeds not controlled by Prodiamine or Dimension. For example Doveweed is a problem for me, not controlled by Prodiamine or Dimension, so I apply Specticle pre-emergent herbicide in late April to target that weed.
Also remember, pre-emergents needed to be watered in to activate them, and move the herbicide into the soil were the weed seeds are located, so consider applying the product before a good rain or water them with sprinklers soon after application.
This post was edited on 8/1/26 at 12:44 pm
Posted on 8/1/26 at 11:07 am to CrawDude
quote:
Now, if you do have particular problems with certain weeds in your lawn, more so than others, let us know as we might suggest another application of a different pre-emergent herbicide at a different time of the year to target those weeds not controlled by Prodiamine or Dimension.
You Da Man! Thanks too much.
I worked hard on general weed control this yr starting in the Spring with a two apps of Weed B Gon. Did OK but left a lot. I applied Image for Nutsedge in May/June and knocked out a lot more weeds. I have been working lately on spot pray of MSM turf for Virginia Buttonweed.
So my big emphasis going into the winter and next season is crabgrass and keeping the general weed population down. I have a little bit of Nutsedge left that I will hit again in the Spring and continue on eradication of VB.
I asked about winterizer fertilizer because I tend to get a lot of winter kill in my front lawn from looks like root rot and freeze kill. This section is very flat and can hold some water puddles in the spring when it is still cool and grass is still dormant or just emerging. Probably hit it with some antifungal .
Posted on 8/1/26 at 11:28 am to GetmorewithLes
quote:
Any value to putting down winterizer fertilizer in BTR area? if so, when?
A winterizer fertilizer is one high in potassium (K) which helps strengthen the lawn turf with cold hardiness & disease resistance. No real downside to not applying it and if you do, I’d suggest Muriate of Potash (0-0-60) and not a winterizer fertilizer that has any nitrogen (N) in it.
You might want to have a soil analysis done for you lawn by the LSU AgCenter just to see where you stand on K level, as well as other soil chemistry parameters. If your soil is low in K, a recommendation will be provided on how much 0-0-60 per 1000 sq ft of lawn. Usual recommendation is about 1 to 2 pounds of 0-0-60 per 1000 sq ft in the absence of a soil analysis.
The other important thing is “winterizer” fertilizer needs to be applied in the fall when the grass is still actively growing so it can uptake the potassium, and not applied when the grass is dormant (winter) - a common mistake by many. So in the BTR area, apply at the same time as you apply fall pre-emergent herbicide and water them in together.
Posted on 8/1/26 at 11:39 am to GetmorewithLes
quote:
So my big emphasis going into the winter and next season is crabgrass and keeping the general weed population down. I have a little bit of Nutsedge left that I will hit again in the Spring and continue on eradication of VB. I asked about winterizer fertilizer because I tend to get a lot of winter kill in my front lawn from looks like root rot and freeze kill. This section is very flat and can hold some water puddles in the spring when it is still cool and grass is still dormant or just emerging. Probably hit it with some antifungal
Pre-emergent herbicides are game changers when it comes to lawn weed control. But sedges, like nutsedge, are not controlled by pre-emergent herbicides so you you’ll still need to spray post-emergent herbicides to control them. Nor are perennial weeds (as opposed to annual weeds) such as Virginia Buttonweed or Dallisgrass controlled by pre-emergents so you still have to spray those with post-emergent herbicides.
Consider filing in low areas of the lawn that hold water with mason sand (no weed seeds) to help mitigate winter kill of lawn grass, and using lawn fungicides in those problem areas can help.
This post was edited on 8/1/26 at 11:41 am
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