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Encapsulating pier and beam crawl space
Posted on 4/16/19 at 3:38 pm
Posted on 4/16/19 at 3:38 pm
Anyone have experience doing this? I'm in louisiana climate.
I'm thinking about a installing a new brick wall between the existing brick pillars, with polyiso foamboard on the back, with 15-20 mil plastic laid on the ground and run up the sides of walls and pillars. Interested for a number of reasons, keep animals out, insulation, moisture control, and least importantly, aesthetics.
There appears to be some good building science behind it, but very few people have actually started doing it. Every contractor I speak to is scared of enclosed crawl spaces. But when I ask them the specifics of what they think an enclosed crawl space is, they inevitably skip or leave out an important piece of the equation which leads me to believe that they haven't tried this particular way.
I'm thinking about a installing a new brick wall between the existing brick pillars, with polyiso foamboard on the back, with 15-20 mil plastic laid on the ground and run up the sides of walls and pillars. Interested for a number of reasons, keep animals out, insulation, moisture control, and least importantly, aesthetics.
There appears to be some good building science behind it, but very few people have actually started doing it. Every contractor I speak to is scared of enclosed crawl spaces. But when I ask them the specifics of what they think an enclosed crawl space is, they inevitably skip or leave out an important piece of the equation which leads me to believe that they haven't tried this particular way.
6
Posted on 4/16/19 at 3:57 pm to rotrain
quote:
Every contractor I speak to is scared of enclosed crawl spaces.
If you can't regulate the humidity in the space then it is a bad idea that can and will cause rot and mold. I have seen it plenty of times before.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 4:12 pm to wickowick
Yep--an enclosed crawl space will trap moisture that inevitably rises from the ground, wicks up from the ground into the brick or concrete piers or brick skirting. Trapping moist air, water, and condensation beneath a structure is NOT a good idea. Moisture will rise into your structure, since it can't escape anywhere else.
You can insulate the home's subfloor if you want to increase energy efficiency.
You can insulate the home's subfloor if you want to increase energy efficiency.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 4:13 pm to wickowick
Thats the reason for the 20 mil plastic and polyiso board. Keep ground evaporation out and outside humidity out. Forgot to mention a dehumidifier as well. possibly also an AC return and venting.
Also, the existing problem is excessive moisture, along with failed insulation. So thats what I'm trying to solve. Haven't found a contractor to tell me what WILL solve the problem, only that encapsulation might cause the same problem in the future.
Also, the existing problem is excessive moisture, along with failed insulation. So thats what I'm trying to solve. Haven't found a contractor to tell me what WILL solve the problem, only that encapsulation might cause the same problem in the future.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 4:15 pm to rotrain
If the underside of the home is open enough for ventilation, why are you having moisture issues? Where is it coming from?
Posted on 4/16/19 at 4:20 pm to hungryone
Hadn't thought about the wicking up the brick piers. Good point. The method calls for wrapping in plastic at least a foot up the pier. Would moisture wick that far? If so, would it be enough that the dehumidifier could handle it?
Its not just energy efficiency I'm after, I have an existing moisture problem and animals nesting in there.
Its not just energy efficiency I'm after, I have an existing moisture problem and animals nesting in there.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 4:25 pm to rotrain
I have lattice panels on mine, and it still gets humid under there. Couldn't imagine how bad it would be without air movement
Posted on 4/16/19 at 4:25 pm to wickowick
Good question and I suppose I don't know 100%. I'm on a gently sloping lot w/ generally good drainage from one side to the other. The high side (also the north side that gets little sun) of the house does have some small puddles that stand maybe a day after a rain about 3-4 feet from the house. Its an old house that has had some additions done in the past, so the area under floor so to speak is quite large.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 4:29 pm to rotrain
You are much better-served locating and stopping the water source than trying you above plan. Not to mention, it will be much cheaper.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 4:30 pm to Hammertime
Thats kind of the nail on the head; by encapsulating you are keeping the humid air out, and the conditioned and dehumidified air in. Its sort of like making your crawl space part of your enclosed living area.
I have a link to a pdf, but don't want to copy it here. If you google "encapsulated crawl space research" its the 2nd link, and there a plenty of other links there too.
I have a link to a pdf, but don't want to copy it here. If you google "encapsulated crawl space research" its the 2nd link, and there a plenty of other links there too.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 5:01 pm to rotrain
I'm with wick on this. Trying to keep moisture out seems futile. Do you have anything blocking air flow from going underneath your house? How high up is it? Is it sloped properly underneath? What type of soil?
Posted on 4/16/19 at 5:07 pm to rotrain
Look up Matt Risinger out of Austin. Has a channel on YouTube I think and a ton of videos, several related to your question. New construction is absolutely go with conditioned crawlspace.
If you can put down vapor barrier and seal the ground, before building the walls it could work. I definelty wouldn’t be trying to do it without having some barrier on the ground.
If you can put down vapor barrier and seal the ground, before building the walls it could work. I definelty wouldn’t be trying to do it without having some barrier on the ground.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 5:59 pm to rotrain
It is great when done correctly. Keeps humidity, odors, and pest out. In TN, saves about 20-30% on heating in the winter. You must have a permanent dehumidifier though. I did my crawlspace and we are very happy with it. Used 12 mil reinforced liner (most people selling 20-30 mil is not actually that thick). Used a Santa Fe dehumidifier (no digital controls to fail and American made).
Posted on 4/16/19 at 6:01 pm to rotrain
In Florida we are required to have one vent per 150 sq. ft. of crawl space. You have to have some air flow under there.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 8:07 pm to ericberryistheman
glad to hear it CAN work. Thanks. Also good idea on the dehumidifier w/ nothing digital.
Do you also run AC vents, or is the dehumidifier enough by itself?
Do you also run AC vents, or is the dehumidifier enough by itself?
Posted on 4/16/19 at 8:08 pm to ChenierauTigre
One per 150? That sounds like a lot more than I was expecting. yikes.
Posted on 4/16/19 at 8:09 pm to GoldenSombrero
thanks for the reference. I will definitely check him out.
Posted on 4/17/19 at 12:34 am to rotrain
Though I can’t provide input your question, on Sat 10 am-Noon WWL 870 radio has a call in show called the Home Improvement Show hosted by Paul LaGrange who is an expert on these matters. I bet 2/3 of the time on his radio program is answering questions and offering solutions on subject issues nearly identical to yours. You can call in or text your questions, and if he doesn’t get to you on the program you can email him and he will respond. Many of his radio shows are on podcast if you want to listen to a couple to see if you think he has the knowledge base to answer your questions. He is a forensic home inspector who says most of his jobs are crawling through attics and crawl spaces trying to solve and provide solutions to moisture issues in south Louisiana.
WWL Home Improvement Show Paul LaGrange
You can access more on him via Facebook by searching “Paul’s House”
WWL Home Improvement Show Paul LaGrange
You can access more on him via Facebook by searching “Paul’s House”
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