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Started By
Message
Did freeze cause water heater damage? Inconsistent heating.
Posted on 3/1/21 at 10:16 pm
Posted on 3/1/21 at 10:16 pm
Live in TX and it got cold. Y'all know the story. I have two water heaters. I believe one serves generally one side of the house and the other the other half, but we'll see if that matters.
Here's the weirdness. My kitchen sink used to be awesome and water would turn hot very fast. Since the freeze, it is wildly inconsistent. Most of the time taking 5-10 minutes to warm up, and not be all that hot. Just now I went in there and it's hot AF like the old times. There's a bar sink in the kitchen as well that acts the same way in unison with the kitchen sink.
A plumber came by and said the water heater was operating fine, but I'm not sure I explained the situation well.
Is there any logical reason why this is happening? Is there a part on the water heater that could be going bad that would explain this?
Thanks,
Here's the weirdness. My kitchen sink used to be awesome and water would turn hot very fast. Since the freeze, it is wildly inconsistent. Most of the time taking 5-10 minutes to warm up, and not be all that hot. Just now I went in there and it's hot AF like the old times. There's a bar sink in the kitchen as well that acts the same way in unison with the kitchen sink.
A plumber came by and said the water heater was operating fine, but I'm not sure I explained the situation well.
Is there any logical reason why this is happening? Is there a part on the water heater that could be going bad that would explain this?
Thanks,
This post was edited on 3/1/21 at 10:28 pm
5
Posted on 3/1/21 at 10:17 pm to Teddy Ruxpin
Hows the pressure before/after? He checked for leaks? He checked to make sure the water heater is in fact heating the water correctly?
Posted on 3/1/21 at 10:20 pm to wizard1183
quote:
Hows the pressure before/after?
Water pressure is good. I've been monitoring the water usage as well, and a week or so ago tested by cutting off the main, so I have no leaks. He went up in the attic to check them and said they were fine, but he also wouldn't know how fast they were before. I've been up there as well and know at least how to ignite the pilots and cut the water but that's the extent of my water heater knowledge at the moment.
Frankly, his English wasn't great so I was going to get a second opinion but this board is pretty good for information.
It just makes me wonder if the water heater isn't getting the signal appropriately to turn on to keep the water hot consistently or something.
This post was edited on 3/1/21 at 10:39 pm
Posted on 3/2/21 at 4:08 am to Teddy Ruxpin
Are they tanked or tankless?
Posted on 3/2/21 at 7:20 am to Teddy Ruxpin
drain your water heater
you might have sediment build up at the bottom of your water heater that is causing the issue
with all the broken water lines, this has become an issue
I had to clean out/replace all of the filters on my faucets due to sediment build up during the storm
you might have sediment build up at the bottom of your water heater that is causing the issue
with all the broken water lines, this has become an issue
I had to clean out/replace all of the filters on my faucets due to sediment build up during the storm
Posted on 3/2/21 at 9:09 am to Salmon
I'll look into that. Thanks
They are tanked as someone above was asking.
They are tanked as someone above was asking.
Posted on 3/2/21 at 9:28 am to Teddy Ruxpin
Was going to start a new thread, but I'll jump in here.
I've got an old tank gas water heater, and it has developed a slight leak at the T/P relief valve. There is about a 3-4 foot copper pipe pointing down out of the valve, and about 3 years ago I just stuck a 5 gallon bucket under it. This was about 5-6 months after I had someone work on it, replacing the sac rods. It was already old then, and I didn't want to sink any more money into it than I already had.
Basically, after a good amount of hot water was used, like for a bath/shower or the dishwasher, there would be a few drips. It would drip very slowly for about 5 minutes, at a rate of about 1 drip every 5-6 seconds. After about 2-3 months, there would be maybe a half gallon of water collected. I know some probably evaporated, but I would just dump the bucket and sit it back under the pipe. After this last cold spell, and we never lost power and it never got to freezing temps in my basement, it seems to drip at a faster rate. It isn't a stream of water by any means, but instead of a drip every 5-6 seconds it would be about every 2-3 seconds, and would drip longer than 5 minutes. So it is leaking more than before.
Could the really cold water coming into it have an effect on this? Should I replace the T/P valve, or should I start looking at a new unit? I'm thinking it might be time for it to go. We moved into this house almost 14 years ago, and I think the previous owners are the ones that replaced it. It appears to be a 2005 model if I'm reading the label correctly.
Are tankless options all they're advertised to be? To replace a 40 gallon tank model, I'm looking at anywhere from $400-700 based on what Lowe's has. I can get a 6.5GPM Rinnai tankless for $680.
I've got an old tank gas water heater, and it has developed a slight leak at the T/P relief valve. There is about a 3-4 foot copper pipe pointing down out of the valve, and about 3 years ago I just stuck a 5 gallon bucket under it. This was about 5-6 months after I had someone work on it, replacing the sac rods. It was already old then, and I didn't want to sink any more money into it than I already had.
Basically, after a good amount of hot water was used, like for a bath/shower or the dishwasher, there would be a few drips. It would drip very slowly for about 5 minutes, at a rate of about 1 drip every 5-6 seconds. After about 2-3 months, there would be maybe a half gallon of water collected. I know some probably evaporated, but I would just dump the bucket and sit it back under the pipe. After this last cold spell, and we never lost power and it never got to freezing temps in my basement, it seems to drip at a faster rate. It isn't a stream of water by any means, but instead of a drip every 5-6 seconds it would be about every 2-3 seconds, and would drip longer than 5 minutes. So it is leaking more than before.
Could the really cold water coming into it have an effect on this? Should I replace the T/P valve, or should I start looking at a new unit? I'm thinking it might be time for it to go. We moved into this house almost 14 years ago, and I think the previous owners are the ones that replaced it. It appears to be a 2005 model if I'm reading the label correctly.
Are tankless options all they're advertised to be? To replace a 40 gallon tank model, I'm looking at anywhere from $400-700 based on what Lowe's has. I can get a 6.5GPM Rinnai tankless for $680.
Posted on 3/2/21 at 12:21 pm to Teddy Ruxpin
Probably not a factor if you’ve not noticed a pressure of flow drop, but you should clean out the strainer/aerator at each sink after a freeze. Stuff gets knocked loose and can block some of the flow, especially if you have an older house with galvanized pipes.
Posted on 3/2/21 at 12:36 pm to uaslick
Ya, we cleared the faucets.
I tell ya, I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.
Today is heating fast.
I tell ya, I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.
Today is heating fast.
Posted on 3/2/21 at 3:30 pm to Teddy Ruxpin
FYI. A customer just had a 50 gallon gas tanked heater do this exact thing. Went to check on it. The pilot was lit. I sent the customer into a bathroom to turn on hot water. With the hot water running, the cold water makeup would cool the water in the tank enough to kick on burner. It would randomly kick on. Not when it should. I recommended the control unit to be changed. They will malfunction and the pilot will stay lit. The heater is 4 years old. Just my .02.
Posted on 3/2/21 at 3:44 pm to Teddy Ruxpin
Is it gas or electric?
If electric, it could be an element that is cracked and only making contact at times. Most have an upper and lower one.
You could check it with a multimeter.
If electric, it could be an element that is cracked and only making contact at times. Most have an upper and lower one.
You could check it with a multimeter.
Posted on 3/2/21 at 4:52 pm to HarryCallahan
Thanks for this information. This sounds like something that would cause uneven heating.
Posted on 3/2/21 at 4:52 pm to ItzMe1972
Gas. Has pilot light with main burner.
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