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Message
Completely Desolated/Restore Back Yard
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:03 am
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:03 am
I've got a property with a TON of weeds and just an absolute dumpster fire of a situation in the backyard (some random concrete side walks from possibly a backhouse structure but I think I'm just eff'd on that and will have to leave it) and no neighbors on either side so no maintained grass (just mowed/weed-wacked by land owner).
The back yard is maybe 80 feet by 30 feet so nothing crazy huge.
My question is, what the hell do I do? Do I pull up every damn weed and try and put down grass? How do I prevent the weeds from getting into my grass. Do I just pour gasoline on everything and have a dirt backyard?
The back yard is maybe 80 feet by 30 feet so nothing crazy huge.
My question is, what the hell do I do? Do I pull up every damn weed and try and put down grass? How do I prevent the weeds from getting into my grass. Do I just pour gasoline on everything and have a dirt backyard?
This post was edited on 6/19/19 at 9:07 am
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:10 am to MisslePig
kill everything with round up, rake it all up with an iron rake or rent an aerator or power rake. Then seed or sod. It's not rocket surgery
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:11 am to MisslePig
Don’t pull them spray and kill the weeds. Then till and put down new grass
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:23 am to MisslePig
Do you have any lawn grass mixed in with the weeds, if so do you know what kind of lawn grass? If you could post some photos of the most significant types of weeds you are dealing with that would help. Many annual weeds can be reliably controlled, some perennial weeds are more problematic.
2400 sq ft is about 5 to 6 pallets of sod, at $180 to 250 per pallet depending grass. Does not include delivery of sod, killing all the existing grass, tilling and prepping the lawn after grass is killed. I could see $2000-2500 to replace the lawn if you did it yourself.
Maybe you want to try controlling the weeds and working on establishing a lush lawn as a cheaper alternative?
2400 sq ft is about 5 to 6 pallets of sod, at $180 to 250 per pallet depending grass. Does not include delivery of sod, killing all the existing grass, tilling and prepping the lawn after grass is killed. I could see $2000-2500 to replace the lawn if you did it yourself.
Maybe you want to try controlling the weeds and working on establishing a lush lawn as a cheaper alternative?
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:30 am to CrawDude
^^ this. Sod is expensive, and it's already a bit too hot to put it down without watering every dang day (or it will die on you). If it's truly all weeds, you can try this ultra-cheap strategy: mow it once a week, like clockwork. Regular mowing will work to select for the more grass-like plants in your weed mix....IOW, some plants grow from leaf tips, others (like grasses) grow from leaf bases. Regular mowing will cause some of your weeds to be killed off, while the more grasslike plants will be fine.
At some point, you'll have a green carpet of grasslike plants. Do you care what species those plants are? If not, then just keep on mowing.
At some point, you'll have a green carpet of grasslike plants. Do you care what species those plants are? If not, then just keep on mowing.
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:30 am to CrawDude
Thanks! You guys have me on the right path, just ordered weed killer to spray and will take the next step from there!
Question, should I water the yard during the 3 weeks it will take to kill the weeds?
Question, should I water the yard during the 3 weeks it will take to kill the weeds?
Posted on 6/19/19 at 9:43 am to MisslePig
Like said above, mow it low. A lot. And if you have any amount of good grass, you can start with some selective herbicides to start weeding out some species.
This post was edited on 6/19/19 at 9:48 am
Posted on 6/19/19 at 10:10 am to MisslePig
if it is truly all weeds, all you're going to be doing is watering weeds...
pics would help. Also, with roundup or something similar it doesn't take 3 weeks to kill the weeds. You will see some dying the next day.
Need more details tho
pics would help. Also, with roundup or something similar it doesn't take 3 weeks to kill the weeds. You will see some dying the next day.
Need more details tho
Posted on 6/19/19 at 10:51 am to AU_251
What herbicide did you order? Assuming you have some desirable grass - St Aug, centipede, Bermudagrass or zoysia - mixed in with the weeds, I suggest using methsulfuron methyl (MSM Turf) or Celsius herbicides to spray the entire lawn because not only are they good broad spectrum weed killers they are safe to use on the 4 lawn grasses in this summer heat.
Other good lawn herbicides can potentially kill your good grass at temperatures exceeding high 80s-90s. Follow the label diections and use spreader/sticker (surfactant) in the herbicide solution.
You’ll need to spray again after a few weeks and be aware that younger weeds are more easily controlled than older weeds. Usually the herbicides are “rain fast” after several hours so yes you can water. Do as others suggest by cutting the grass/weeds often so they don’t develop seed heads but don’t scalp the good grass.
After you see some significant death of the weeds, I’d fertilize the good grass with lawn fertilizer, but not weed & feed, to stimulate growth of the lawn grass.
In fall (Sept/Oct), I’d apply a granular pre-emergent herbicide, for example, Dimension, and re-apply it in the spring (late Feb/March). Pre-emergent herbicides are a game changer in suppressing annual weeds in problem lawns.
Certain perennial weeds and grassy weeds may require special attention and spot spraying with certain herbicides depending on your lawn grass.
Be patient, but persistent, and you should be able to turn your lawn around.
Other good lawn herbicides can potentially kill your good grass at temperatures exceeding high 80s-90s. Follow the label diections and use spreader/sticker (surfactant) in the herbicide solution.
You’ll need to spray again after a few weeks and be aware that younger weeds are more easily controlled than older weeds. Usually the herbicides are “rain fast” after several hours so yes you can water. Do as others suggest by cutting the grass/weeds often so they don’t develop seed heads but don’t scalp the good grass.
After you see some significant death of the weeds, I’d fertilize the good grass with lawn fertilizer, but not weed & feed, to stimulate growth of the lawn grass.
In fall (Sept/Oct), I’d apply a granular pre-emergent herbicide, for example, Dimension, and re-apply it in the spring (late Feb/March). Pre-emergent herbicides are a game changer in suppressing annual weeds in problem lawns.
Certain perennial weeds and grassy weeds may require special attention and spot spraying with certain herbicides depending on your lawn grass.
Be patient, but persistent, and you should be able to turn your lawn around.
Posted on 6/19/19 at 4:22 pm to MisslePig
kill it all start over and when its established then use a pre emergent on it
Posted on 6/19/19 at 4:28 pm to MisslePig
Can you post some pics of what you are dealing with?
Posted on 6/19/19 at 5:54 pm to MisslePig
Post some pictures so we can see if you have any grass that you can establish before “killing it all.”
Posted on 6/19/19 at 7:42 pm to MisslePig
If you have a dog that runs the back yard you probably should research before you do some of the things in the posts here.
Posted on 6/20/19 at 6:29 am to MisslePig
Scrape it. Topsoil. Sod. Water.
Posted on 6/20/19 at 12:34 pm to ItNeverRains
LINK
Here’s some pics and a video, thanks for all the advice it’s greatly appreciated and my mood has gone from “OMG what have I done” to “Ok, I think I can do this”, so thank you.
Here’s some pics and a video, thanks for all the advice it’s greatly appreciated and my mood has gone from “OMG what have I done” to “Ok, I think I can do this”, so thank you.
Posted on 6/20/19 at 1:00 pm to MisslePig
The pics and video help. I’m sure others will weigh in but i’ll start.
The shady area beneath the trees is going to be difficult to establish grass - not enough sunlight. Doesn’t look you have any grass there now - just the weeds. I’d be thinking along the lines of building some shade garden landscape beds in that area with pathways - you can do that over time. Maybe keep the weeds mowed close to the ground as recommended by others until you can map out a game plan for that area. If you kill all the weeds now you may be dealing with a muddy mess in that area until you can decide on a game plan.
The open lawn area with sunlight shouldn’t be an issue. Spray the open areas with selective herbicides, fertilize the lawn grass, use pre-emergent herbicides in fall and spring as suggested in the earlier post.
Do you know what kind of grass you have in the open, sunny area - I can’t tell from the video.
The shady area beneath the trees is going to be difficult to establish grass - not enough sunlight. Doesn’t look you have any grass there now - just the weeds. I’d be thinking along the lines of building some shade garden landscape beds in that area with pathways - you can do that over time. Maybe keep the weeds mowed close to the ground as recommended by others until you can map out a game plan for that area. If you kill all the weeds now you may be dealing with a muddy mess in that area until you can decide on a game plan.
The open lawn area with sunlight shouldn’t be an issue. Spray the open areas with selective herbicides, fertilize the lawn grass, use pre-emergent herbicides in fall and spring as suggested in the earlier post.
Do you know what kind of grass you have in the open, sunny area - I can’t tell from the video.
Posted on 6/20/19 at 5:59 pm to MisslePig
I would begin by pruning lower branches, at least, on trees to allow more sunlight.
I can’t tell what kind of grass you have, need closeups.
I would probably cut one of the trees down if it were me. Most likely end up with the same amount of canopy but a prettier tree. crowded trees tend to hold each other back.
I can’t tell what kind of grass you have, need closeups.
I would probably cut one of the trees down if it were me. Most likely end up with the same amount of canopy but a prettier tree. crowded trees tend to hold each other back.
This post was edited on 6/20/19 at 6:02 pm
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