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Base size needed for island installation
Posted on 8/27/24 at 9:54 pm
Posted on 8/27/24 at 9:54 pm
Installing an island outside that will be ~10/10.5' X 42". It's going to be placed onto to a stainless steel tube tube base (BBQ Tubes). Plan is for the base to measure 8' X 27". Leaving a 2" lip and 13" overhang, as well as 1' on each side. I can add L brackets if needed.
Preliminary plan is to fasten the tubes into the slab with wedge anchors.
All I see online are minimum walk through areas, nothing regarding minimum base dimensions for island size. Anything on the face of this look off, regarding the tube structure size vs slab size?
Preliminary plan is to fasten the tubes into the slab with wedge anchors.
All I see online are minimum walk through areas, nothing regarding minimum base dimensions for island size. Anything on the face of this look off, regarding the tube structure size vs slab size?
This post was edited on 8/27/24 at 9:56 pm
1
Posted on 8/28/24 at 6:20 am to weurf3
quote:I’ve read this sentence several times and still have no idea what you are asking…
Anything on the face of this look off, regarding the tube structure size vs slab size?
it seems you are building an island counter and top outside on a slab. What I would do is use dimensional lumber (2x6) and build short stud walls (top and bottom plate) to make your perimeter, gusset the corners on the inside and shoot the bottom plate down to the slab. Over the top plate install 2 layers 3/4 plywood and one layer 3/4 on the sides over the studs. It will be rock solid
Posted on 8/28/24 at 8:14 am to cgrand
quote:
still have no idea what you are asking…
This. wtf is a bbq tube?
If you’re asking if stainless pipe will hold up a counter top the answer is yes. I would go 1” diameter minimum but more for stiffness than strength.
Posted on 8/28/24 at 8:40 am to cgrand
quote:
still have no idea what you are asking…
I think he's asking if the countertop overhang/lip is ok or does it need to be smaller?
Posted on 8/28/24 at 8:52 am to kengel2
You need to figure how much overhang you want. And how much space you need in between. What are you putting as a counter top? Nice bar overhang that you can tuck a chair under. Then you need to know what you are using to face the bar. Brick, wood? Figure that then subtract to get your framing.
Posted on 8/28/24 at 9:04 am to kengel2
2 layers of 3/4 ply will hold any countertop overhang. If in doubt it’s easy enough to gusset underneath
Posted on 8/28/24 at 9:12 am to kengel2
Is that modern art?
Posted on 8/28/24 at 10:00 am to cgrand
Sorry for ambiguity. Trying to make sure the base size is adequate for the slab size for stability, design.
BBQ tubes for ease of construction.
Hardie shiplap attached to frame.
3cm Quartzite.
BBQ tubes for ease of construction.
Hardie shiplap attached to frame.
3cm Quartzite.
This post was edited on 8/28/24 at 12:29 pm
Posted on 8/28/24 at 6:46 pm to cgrand
quote:then you have to put an edge to cover the plywood.
2 layers of 3/4 ply will hold any countertop overhang. If in doubt it’s easy enough to gusset underneath
Quartzite will be nice. I feel like that tube steel should have some welded brackets to have a fastener to the ground. Also see it they can accommodate for an overhang so you don’t have to have anything underneath
Posted on 8/28/24 at 7:23 pm to Art Vandelay
quote:basic carpentry offers a number of solutions, including ripping strips of the same hardi he is siding the box with. There simply is no point to having a flimsily supported counter when wood offers all the solutions
then you have to put an edge to cover the plywood.
I don’t know how expensive those steel tubes are but I do know that plain old #2 pine would be easier, cheaper and stronger
Posted on 8/28/24 at 8:21 pm to cgrand
quote:
basic carpentry offers a number of solutions, including ripping strips of the same hardi he is siding the box with
This is my thought. Why use steel if you’re going to cover it up? I’ve welded up a couple tables and shelves and there are few options:
-make them flimsy on purpose
-use on a forgiving surface like earth
-perfectly match them to floor grade.
-anchor to floor
-use forgiving “feet”
Only tried the first two myself and neither of those work for this application.
This post was edited on 8/28/24 at 8:24 pm
Posted on 8/29/24 at 3:03 pm to cgrand
Not arguing steel vs wood. Maybe the guy got some this steel. Might work great. Mine is all wood. Wood counter epoxy coated with Exterior mdf doors
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