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re: 2019 Garden Thread
Posted on 6/1/19 at 9:19 am to LSUlefty
Posted on 6/1/19 at 9:19 am to LSUlefty
Same. It kinda pisses me off, cause my plants have actually rebounded and are looking pretty healthy. Seeing quite a few new flowers, but they’re not setting fruit.
Oh well. Cucumbers, peppers, and okra are doing well. So there’s that...
Oh well. Cucumbers, peppers, and okra are doing well. So there’s that...
1
Posted on 6/1/19 at 9:29 am to PillageUrVillage
The plants themselves look great, just no new flowers. I'm picking the last of the green beans and them yanking them out. I'll just save that bed for cabbage in a couple of months.
Posted on 6/1/19 at 9:55 am to LSUlefty
I’ve been on a fishing trip for the past week. My mom has been riding by my place and taking care of the plants. According to her everything looks good. We’ll see when I get home. She’s picked squash and zucchini, cucumbers, and a bunch of heirlooms this week and I should have some photos to show y’all of the striped ones when I get home tomorrow. She also says the pepper plants are loaded, but she hasn’t picked any.
Posted on 6/1/19 at 10:01 am to bluemoons
I will say that next to my Early Girl, the most productive has been my Black Krim. Taste like a Cherokee Purple, but much easier to grow.
Posted on 6/1/19 at 1:29 pm to LSUlefty
My Cherokee purples are thriving. Each plant has about 5-6 fruit on them.
German Johnson has several.
I have three brandy wine and they’re sucking. Ton of flowers but the fruit isn’t setting. Have been trying to pollinate them myself. Will know in a few days if it’s working.
German Johnson has several.
I have three brandy wine and they’re sucking. Ton of flowers but the fruit isn’t setting. Have been trying to pollinate them myself. Will know in a few days if it’s working.
Posted on 6/1/19 at 3:49 pm to bbvdd
I tried several times growing Brandywine and Paul Robeson with little to no luck.
Posted on 6/1/19 at 4:32 pm to LSUlefty
quote:
I will say that next to my Early Girl, the most productive has been my Black Krim. Taste like a Cherokee Purple, but much easier to grow.
My black krim has definitely been my best producer so far. And they test great too.
Posted on 6/1/19 at 4:46 pm to nismosao
What do you guys consider good production from an heirloom plant? Not being snarky. Legitimately curious because this is my first year really successfully growing tomatoes. Each of my Cherokee purples ultimately produced about 15-20 tomatoes and my large barred boar plants produced 20-25. I felt really good about that.
Posted on 6/1/19 at 4:51 pm to bluemoons
You maxed out IMO. I got those numbers last fall. Terrible this spring. Try to remember your soil composition, watering, where you bought, etc. Nice job!
Posted on 6/1/19 at 5:02 pm to bluemoons
I have eight Cherokee and eleven Rainbow right now.
One Cherokee barely fits in the palm of my hand.
I think you’ve fared better than I have in SELA.
One Cherokee barely fits in the palm of my hand.
I think you’ve fared better than I have in SELA.
Posted on 6/1/19 at 5:40 pm to bluemoons
quote:
Each of my Cherokee purples ultimately produced about 15-20 tomatoes
That's a lot for that variety.
Posted on 6/3/19 at 9:50 am to LSUlefty
So now that I'm in a consistent harvest period I figured I'd post a full update with photos/what I've learned this spring/etc. This will be a pretty long post just because I haven't really kept up with posting in here like I'd like to (for both my future reference and y'all's info) just because it's hard for me to find time.
For reference, I've got tomatoes in 10gal grow bags and in a raised bed. I grew two dwarf varieties, heirlooms, and a couple of hybrids. Cherries are all in bags. I've got 20 something pepper plants. One in a grow bag, 7 in a raised box on a fence, and the rest in a raised bed. I've got 2 squash plants and 2 zucchini plants in a raised bed, and several cucumbers which are in a raised box on my fence trellised. I generally follow the square foot idea for plant spacing.
First, things I've learned:
1. the dwarf tomato varieties are very productive and really manageable. It's nice to not have to worry about how to stabilize a 7' tall tomato plant. I grew a variety called Fred's Tie Dye and Sarandipity. Sarandipity was a smaller, round tomato. Fred's Tie Dye is a cross between Pink Berkley Tie Dye and Dwarf Wild Fred. Both are striped. I plan to save seeds from the Fred's Tie Dye and grow again in the future. The Sarandipity variety was cool but I don't really like the taste too much. Pretty bland for an heirloom. The Fred's produced some pretty big tomatoes in the 10-14oz range. The plants stayed about 36" tall. People recommend not pruning the dwarf types, but they get very dense with foliage so I pruned for airflow. I didn't sucker them.
2. regular heirlooms. Cherokee purple is still my favorite, but I grew the large barred boar as well and it's very similar in taste. It was my biggest tomato so far at right over a pound. Biggest CP was like 14oz.
3. Tomatoes grow better in raised beds than the bags. The bags are great to prevent overwatering, but in the heat they require watering twice a day at full size. This leads to some cracking. I've had no cracking on my tomatoes in the raised bed, but some cracking on the heirlooms in bags.
4. Caging works very well for squash and zucchini. I used some pretty small tomato cages (mistake) to keep them contained, and I prune them heavily (once a week or so) to keep the leaves in check. Now that the plants are mature, they're outgrowing their cages. Next time, I'll use a full size cage. The zucchini variety I grew (Tiger) produced huge plants. Will grow again because it looks really cool and it tastes good, but those plants are 2x the size of my regular straightneck squash plants.
5. Sevin works for vine borers. This may be frowned upon by some and that's fine, but I fought the vine borers this year with diligent applications of sevin dust. I use a bulb sprayer to apply the dust directly and only to the vine probably once every 10 days, or after a heavy rain. I do not put the dust on the leaves and I don't use it elsewhere in my garden. As of now, my plants are still healthy and producing, and I've had no issues with borers. I was also out of town all last week, and no issues. I've also found 5-6 dead vine borer moths on the ground around my plants over the spring.
6. Bleach spray mixed per my earlier post in this thread is really a miracle worker for some diseases on tomato plants. The affected leaves dry up, which may cause you to think it's not working. I only used once after original transplant after a period of really heavy rain which caused a couple of my plants to fall over. As of now, all of my tomato plants are disease-free even though they're not setting anymore fruit (except cherries). I used the bleach spray to kill disease, and Serenade to prevent.
7. Topping certain pepper varieties works better than others. I experimented by topping one of each of the varieties of peppers I grew, except the dwarfs. The Jimmy Nardellos, Shishitos, Hungarian Wax, and Jalapenos responded really well. The bell peppers, corno di toro giallo, carmens, and marconis did not. I also saw no noticeable difference between the Poblano I topped and the one I didn't top.
8. Over wintering container peppers is the way to go. I overwintered an established Anaheim plant from last year. Cut it back almost to the base. It had red peppers on it before any of my other plants this spring, and currently has a ton of peppers hanging waiting to turn. I think in the future, I will pick 4-5 varieties that I really like and plant them in containers, then overwinter them every year. It required minimal effort and results were great. One plant overwintered may produce 2x as much as a regular plant just started.
9. IMO it's important to remove pepper flowers until the plants are at least like 14" tall depending on type. I let some fruit develop earlier on my bell/stuffing varieties and it stunted their growth. I eventually had to remove the peppers to encourage the plants to get taller so they wouldn't get shaded out by my other plants.
10. I suckered one of each of my heirloom plants to one stem, and the other I left to two or three main stems. In the future, I'll stick to two-three main stems. I don't see any difference in size of tomatoes. Actually, the biggest tomato I got came from a plant with three main stems. The plants with more stems are more productive than plants with just one.
11. Per LSUSON's advice, the toothbrush method for pollinating tomatoes is a miracle worker. Hand pollinating squash and zucchini plants with a paintbrush has also tripled my harvest. From 4 plants, I have more squash and zucchini than I know what to do with. Over eating it already.
12. the Texas Tomato Food works just as well as Masterblend. I used the latter last fall, and my production this year was much better. This was likely in part due to me just learning this stuff more and using better cultural practices, but I'm a believer. I use it once every 2 weeks on raised bed plants, and once every few days on container plants. I also supplement with epsom salt every now and then.
13. Sweet Success is still my favorite cucumber to eat raw, but don't let the self-pollinating moniker fool you. The plants are indeed self-pollinating, but they're not incredibly productive. The Ukrainian plants I got are more productive, but they don't taste as good and they've got more seeds.
14. Sungold is my favorite tasting cherry tomato. I've got sungold, sweet million, and purple bumble bee, and prefer them in that order. The PBB tomatoes look really cool and I like the size for salads, but they don't taste as good as the sungold and sweet million. They're also not as prolific. I hope to keep the sungold and sweet million plants going as long as I can, clone them, then regrow in the fall.
That's all I can think of for now but I'm sure something will come to mind later and I'll add.
For reference, I've got tomatoes in 10gal grow bags and in a raised bed. I grew two dwarf varieties, heirlooms, and a couple of hybrids. Cherries are all in bags. I've got 20 something pepper plants. One in a grow bag, 7 in a raised box on a fence, and the rest in a raised bed. I've got 2 squash plants and 2 zucchini plants in a raised bed, and several cucumbers which are in a raised box on my fence trellised. I generally follow the square foot idea for plant spacing.
First, things I've learned:
1. the dwarf tomato varieties are very productive and really manageable. It's nice to not have to worry about how to stabilize a 7' tall tomato plant. I grew a variety called Fred's Tie Dye and Sarandipity. Sarandipity was a smaller, round tomato. Fred's Tie Dye is a cross between Pink Berkley Tie Dye and Dwarf Wild Fred. Both are striped. I plan to save seeds from the Fred's Tie Dye and grow again in the future. The Sarandipity variety was cool but I don't really like the taste too much. Pretty bland for an heirloom. The Fred's produced some pretty big tomatoes in the 10-14oz range. The plants stayed about 36" tall. People recommend not pruning the dwarf types, but they get very dense with foliage so I pruned for airflow. I didn't sucker them.
2. regular heirlooms. Cherokee purple is still my favorite, but I grew the large barred boar as well and it's very similar in taste. It was my biggest tomato so far at right over a pound. Biggest CP was like 14oz.
3. Tomatoes grow better in raised beds than the bags. The bags are great to prevent overwatering, but in the heat they require watering twice a day at full size. This leads to some cracking. I've had no cracking on my tomatoes in the raised bed, but some cracking on the heirlooms in bags.
4. Caging works very well for squash and zucchini. I used some pretty small tomato cages (mistake) to keep them contained, and I prune them heavily (once a week or so) to keep the leaves in check. Now that the plants are mature, they're outgrowing their cages. Next time, I'll use a full size cage. The zucchini variety I grew (Tiger) produced huge plants. Will grow again because it looks really cool and it tastes good, but those plants are 2x the size of my regular straightneck squash plants.
5. Sevin works for vine borers. This may be frowned upon by some and that's fine, but I fought the vine borers this year with diligent applications of sevin dust. I use a bulb sprayer to apply the dust directly and only to the vine probably once every 10 days, or after a heavy rain. I do not put the dust on the leaves and I don't use it elsewhere in my garden. As of now, my plants are still healthy and producing, and I've had no issues with borers. I was also out of town all last week, and no issues. I've also found 5-6 dead vine borer moths on the ground around my plants over the spring.
6. Bleach spray mixed per my earlier post in this thread is really a miracle worker for some diseases on tomato plants. The affected leaves dry up, which may cause you to think it's not working. I only used once after original transplant after a period of really heavy rain which caused a couple of my plants to fall over. As of now, all of my tomato plants are disease-free even though they're not setting anymore fruit (except cherries). I used the bleach spray to kill disease, and Serenade to prevent.
7. Topping certain pepper varieties works better than others. I experimented by topping one of each of the varieties of peppers I grew, except the dwarfs. The Jimmy Nardellos, Shishitos, Hungarian Wax, and Jalapenos responded really well. The bell peppers, corno di toro giallo, carmens, and marconis did not. I also saw no noticeable difference between the Poblano I topped and the one I didn't top.
8. Over wintering container peppers is the way to go. I overwintered an established Anaheim plant from last year. Cut it back almost to the base. It had red peppers on it before any of my other plants this spring, and currently has a ton of peppers hanging waiting to turn. I think in the future, I will pick 4-5 varieties that I really like and plant them in containers, then overwinter them every year. It required minimal effort and results were great. One plant overwintered may produce 2x as much as a regular plant just started.
9. IMO it's important to remove pepper flowers until the plants are at least like 14" tall depending on type. I let some fruit develop earlier on my bell/stuffing varieties and it stunted their growth. I eventually had to remove the peppers to encourage the plants to get taller so they wouldn't get shaded out by my other plants.
10. I suckered one of each of my heirloom plants to one stem, and the other I left to two or three main stems. In the future, I'll stick to two-three main stems. I don't see any difference in size of tomatoes. Actually, the biggest tomato I got came from a plant with three main stems. The plants with more stems are more productive than plants with just one.
11. Per LSUSON's advice, the toothbrush method for pollinating tomatoes is a miracle worker. Hand pollinating squash and zucchini plants with a paintbrush has also tripled my harvest. From 4 plants, I have more squash and zucchini than I know what to do with. Over eating it already.
12. the Texas Tomato Food works just as well as Masterblend. I used the latter last fall, and my production this year was much better. This was likely in part due to me just learning this stuff more and using better cultural practices, but I'm a believer. I use it once every 2 weeks on raised bed plants, and once every few days on container plants. I also supplement with epsom salt every now and then.
13. Sweet Success is still my favorite cucumber to eat raw, but don't let the self-pollinating moniker fool you. The plants are indeed self-pollinating, but they're not incredibly productive. The Ukrainian plants I got are more productive, but they don't taste as good and they've got more seeds.
14. Sungold is my favorite tasting cherry tomato. I've got sungold, sweet million, and purple bumble bee, and prefer them in that order. The PBB tomatoes look really cool and I like the size for salads, but they don't taste as good as the sungold and sweet million. They're also not as prolific. I hope to keep the sungold and sweet million plants going as long as I can, clone them, then regrow in the fall.
That's all I can think of for now but I'm sure something will come to mind later and I'll add.
This post was edited on 6/3/19 at 9:54 am
Posted on 6/3/19 at 9:50 am to bluemoons
Second, photos.
Biggest tomato - large barred boar.
Raised bed. Closts plant on right corner is the tiger zucchini. It's almost as tall as the poblano pepper plant. The back right corner is a full-sized heirloom tomato for reference. The little plants are baby okra.
Squash. Sevin on vine:
Sarandipity dwarf tomato:
Cucumbers:
Large Barred Boar tomatoes:
Harvest after being out of town for a week. My mom was watching everything for me. She took all the cucumbers and let the squash/zucchini get huge
Nardello plants with turning peppers:
Hot wax:
Tomato bags and Anaheim:
Fence box with redskin, mohawk, and shishito:
Overwintered Anaheim:
Fred's Tie Dye dwarf:
Another harvest from before I left town last week:
Overall, I feel like this spring has been kinda short from a productivity standpoint just because of the weather, but I'm very happy with the production I've gotten and I feel like I've learned a ton about growing food...no doubt thanks to some advice I've gotten on here. This is about as big as I want to get though, and I'll probably downsize in the fall. It's just my girlfriend and I living in my house, and we don't need to feed a family. I currently have more vegetables than I know what to do with and will be making salsa for sure. Also going to try my hand at pickling some cucumbers soon.
Biggest tomato - large barred boar.
Raised bed. Closts plant on right corner is the tiger zucchini. It's almost as tall as the poblano pepper plant. The back right corner is a full-sized heirloom tomato for reference. The little plants are baby okra.
Squash. Sevin on vine:
Sarandipity dwarf tomato:
Cucumbers:
Large Barred Boar tomatoes:
Harvest after being out of town for a week. My mom was watching everything for me. She took all the cucumbers and let the squash/zucchini get huge
Nardello plants with turning peppers:
Hot wax:
Tomato bags and Anaheim:
Fence box with redskin, mohawk, and shishito:
Overwintered Anaheim:
Fred's Tie Dye dwarf:
Another harvest from before I left town last week:
Overall, I feel like this spring has been kinda short from a productivity standpoint just because of the weather, but I'm very happy with the production I've gotten and I feel like I've learned a ton about growing food...no doubt thanks to some advice I've gotten on here. This is about as big as I want to get though, and I'll probably downsize in the fall. It's just my girlfriend and I living in my house, and we don't need to feed a family. I currently have more vegetables than I know what to do with and will be making salsa for sure. Also going to try my hand at pickling some cucumbers soon.
This post was edited on 6/3/19 at 1:48 pm
Posted on 6/3/19 at 10:09 am to bluemoons
Fantastic!
I think I will use this at a slightly weaker dilution next year really early on. The plants I sprayed with bleach a few weeks ago have rebounded beautifully. Unfortunately, it’s all leaves and flowers. No more fruit is setting. But I will definitely use it and save the peroxide for the roots. Watering with diluted peroxide seemed to save some of my plants that showed signs of root rot during that period of non stop rain that lasted a couple weeks.
ETA: I haven’t been taking many pictures, but I snapped a few of my okra and peppers this weekend. Those and my cucumbers are doing really well.
Have about a dozen or more okra pods growing. I’m looking forward to harvesting those. I love okra. Will probably sow more in place of one row of the tomatoes when I pull them.
ETA2: Do you keep a garden journal? I’ve been thinking that I should probably do that to help me keep up with what works best.
quote:
6. Bleach spray mixed per my earlier post in this thread is really a miracle worker for some diseases on tomato plants. The affected leaves dry up, which may cause you to think it's not working. I only used once after original transplant after a period of really heavy rain which caused a couple of my plants to fall over. As of now, all of my tomato plants are disease-free even though they're not setting anymore fruit (except cherries). I used the bleach spray to kill disease, and Serenade to prevent.
I think I will use this at a slightly weaker dilution next year really early on. The plants I sprayed with bleach a few weeks ago have rebounded beautifully. Unfortunately, it’s all leaves and flowers. No more fruit is setting. But I will definitely use it and save the peroxide for the roots. Watering with diluted peroxide seemed to save some of my plants that showed signs of root rot during that period of non stop rain that lasted a couple weeks.
ETA: I haven’t been taking many pictures, but I snapped a few of my okra and peppers this weekend. Those and my cucumbers are doing really well.
Have about a dozen or more okra pods growing. I’m looking forward to harvesting those. I love okra. Will probably sow more in place of one row of the tomatoes when I pull them.
ETA2: Do you keep a garden journal? I’ve been thinking that I should probably do that to help me keep up with what works best.
This post was edited on 6/3/19 at 10:26 am
Posted on 6/3/19 at 10:33 am to bluemoons
Looking great man. I'm jealous of the amount of sun your back yard looks to get. I think I've about maxed out what I can do with the yard getting shaded in the afternoon.
Agree on overwintering, it's a game changer for peppers that traditionally take time to bulk up. It's effectively doubled my growing season.
Also learned my lesson about being too aggressive in pulling suckers. I was pulling all suckers trying to train the vines straight up and low and behold one plant just randomly terminated. Sent out two side branches, and a blossom cluster, but no upward growing stem. That plant is now stuck at about half the height of the others. Since then it happened to another plant but it had a sucker growing, and that sucker just took over. From now on I'll always let a couple suckers grow to ensure the plant always has a way to grow. I don't notice much of a "drain" on the plant from suckers as long as I keep it fed.
Learning more about fertilization has been a big step forward for me, especially when and what. TTF is similar to the home blend I've been using, which is lower on nitrogen, high on potassium, and gets supplemented with a lot of calcium and magnesium. Differences have been night and day with the amount of blossoms and fruit set. In containers it can make or break your yield since nutrients are constantly being washed out.
quote:
8. Over wintering container peppers is the way to go. I overwintered an established Anaheim plant from last year. Cut it back almost to the base. It had red peppers on it before any of my other plants this spring, and currently has a ton of peppers hanging waiting to turn. I think in the future, I will pick 4-5 varieties that I really like and plant them in containers, then overwinter them every year. It required minimal effort and results were great. One plant overwintered may produce 2x as much as a regular plant just started.
Agree on overwintering, it's a game changer for peppers that traditionally take time to bulk up. It's effectively doubled my growing season.
quote:
10. I suckered one of each of my heirloom plants to one stem, and the other I left to two or three main stems. In the future, I'll stick to two-three main stems. I don't see any difference in size of tomatoes. Actually, the biggest tomato I got came from a plant with three main stems. The plants with more stems are more productive than plants with just one.
Also learned my lesson about being too aggressive in pulling suckers. I was pulling all suckers trying to train the vines straight up and low and behold one plant just randomly terminated. Sent out two side branches, and a blossom cluster, but no upward growing stem. That plant is now stuck at about half the height of the others. Since then it happened to another plant but it had a sucker growing, and that sucker just took over. From now on I'll always let a couple suckers grow to ensure the plant always has a way to grow. I don't notice much of a "drain" on the plant from suckers as long as I keep it fed.
quote:
12. the Texas Tomato Food works just as well as Masterblend. I used the latter last fall, and my production this year was much better. This was likely in part due to me just learning this stuff more and using better cultural practices, but I'm a believer. I use it once every 2 weeks on raised bed plants, and once every few days on container plants. I also supplement with epsom salt every now and then.
Learning more about fertilization has been a big step forward for me, especially when and what. TTF is similar to the home blend I've been using, which is lower on nitrogen, high on potassium, and gets supplemented with a lot of calcium and magnesium. Differences have been night and day with the amount of blossoms and fruit set. In containers it can make or break your yield since nutrients are constantly being washed out.
Posted on 6/3/19 at 11:35 am to TheDrunkenTigah
I wanted to update on my brandywine tomatoes.
I've been trying to pollinate the flowers and have been just basically rubbing flowers together.
I don't know if it's me or not but I'm getting several tomatoes growing now. I plan of keeping up doing that until I get some more bee activity around the garden. I have a huge catnip plant that should be blooming in the next few days. Last year it brought in a ton of bees. Hope it does the same this year.
I've been trying to pollinate the flowers and have been just basically rubbing flowers together.
I don't know if it's me or not but I'm getting several tomatoes growing now. I plan of keeping up doing that until I get some more bee activity around the garden. I have a huge catnip plant that should be blooming in the next few days. Last year it brought in a ton of bees. Hope it does the same this year.
Posted on 6/3/19 at 12:33 pm to bbvdd
No need to rub tomato or pepper flowers together, they are autogamous meaning all the flowers have both male and female parts. Just have to knock the pollen loose such that it will contact the rest of the flower. That's why the electric toothbrush is popular, just hit the stem of the cluster of blossoms for the few seconds and move on to the next. Thumping or shaking works but is slower and less thorough.
Posted on 6/3/19 at 1:43 pm to PillageUrVillage
quote:
Have about a dozen or more okra pods growing. I’m looking forward to harvesting those. I love okra. Will probably sow more in place of one row of the tomatoes when I pull them.
ETA2: Do you keep a garden journal? I’ve been thinking that I should probably do that to help me keep up with what works best.
Thanks man. How old are your okra plants? Just curious as I've never grown them before and I'd like to gauge how long it will take mine to start producing. I also planted clemson spineless. The flowers are pretty good looking for a vegetable. I'll plant more okra when my squash/zucchini/tomatoes die out as well.
I do keep a garden journal...kinda. I have a written journal of things I've learned like fertilizer mixtures, what plants like what mineral/fertilizer, transplant times, etc. Everything else, I keep a dated note in my phone to keep up with fertilizing schedules and keep track of harvest times and whatnot.
Posted on 6/3/19 at 1:45 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
quote:
TheDrunkenTigah
Thanks dude. My back yard does get a good bit of sun. My raised bed is a little close to my house for full sun in the winter, but it's level in that spot so I put it there. I've got sun back there from about 10am-an hour before dark most of the year.
Also agree re: the consistent fertilizing schedule with good fertilizers.
Some of the peppers in my fence box seem to be kinda thin walled, and the vegetables have some soft spots on them. You guys think this is a calcium issue?
Posted on 6/3/19 at 2:34 pm to bluemoons
quote:
Thanks man. How old are your okra plants? Just curious as I've never grown them before and I'd like to gauge how long it will take mine to start producing. I also planted clemson spineless. The flowers are pretty good looking for a vegetable. I'll plant more okra when my squash/zucchini/tomatoes die out as well.
I sowed the seeds around early/mid April. These are a dwarf variety (Cajun Jewel) and, depending on which website you visit, it's either 53 or 65 days to harvest. Supposedly they only get about 4 feet tall. Mine are about 2 feet tall right now. Apparently okra is related to hibiscus. And it's noticeable by the flowers they produce. I have Cows Horn and Clemson Spineless seeds. I may do both. I'll probably be giving away okra in a couple of months.
quote:
I do keep a garden journal...kinda. I have a written journal of things I've learned like fertilizer mixtures, what plants like what mineral/fertilizer, transplant times, etc. Everything else, I keep a dated note in my phone to keep up with fertilizing schedules and keep track of harvest times and whatnot
That's kinda what I'm thinking about doing. As of now, I just have a crap load of links bookmarked on my phone. But I think writing stuff down might help me be more consistent.
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