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re: Homebrewing Thread: Volume II
Posted on 12/10/20 at 11:03 am to GeauxPack81
Posted on 12/10/20 at 11:03 am to GeauxPack81
quote:
What is your reasoning behind splitting up between Pale Malt and 2-Row?
It's 2 row and Golden Promise. No specific reasoning other than doing some research and found a few recipes used Golden Promise. Tree House Julius, in particular. I've used slight variations to this recipe in the past.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 11:14 am to BugAC
i personally dont think the neepah yeast does as good as Vermont ipa or London3.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 12:40 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
i personally dont think the neepah yeast does as good as Vermont ipa or London3.
First time using it. What's the issues with it?
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:04 pm to BugAC
Not sure if i posted this in the past, but a few of us have ScottJanish's book on the New IPA, and goes into detail on the affects of hops in beer. He posted a full chapter on dry hopping on his website back in march. It's a good read, technical, but has some good information. I may have posted some of this stuff in the past, but don't remember if posted this whole chapter.
What we know about dry hopping
Another useful article
A case for short and cool dry hopping
What we know about dry hopping
quote:
Key Findings
- Oxygen will inevitably be introduced to beer when dry hopping. To keep oxygen levels low try adding hops during first 3-5 days of fermentation or continually purging the headspace with CO2 while adding dry hops, especially when post-fermentation.
- Dry hopping for just 24 hours has been tested for nearly complete extraction, however the size of the batch plays a role. Homebrewers will get faster extraction than commercial breweries.
- With agitation or recirculation, extraction can peak as quickly as four hours, but may also enhance the astringency, especially when hop usage rates are high.
- Dry hopping at colder temperatures will still see extraction, likely peaking in three days.
- Hop pellets have higher extraction rates than whole leaf hops.
- As dry hop rates increase, so will the amount of more non-polar compounds like myrcene (green) and aggressive tasting polyphenols. This is particularly true with high-protein and beta-glucan grist.
- In general, hops low in a-acids will have more polyphenols than hops high in a-acids.
- Polyphenols peak after three days of dry hopping and will have higher extraction rates at warmer dry hop temperatures.
- Increased yeast pitching rates may help to remove more non-polar hop compounds and polyphenols.
- Dry hopping too much of a particular variety can alter that hop’s profile, likely going from fruity flavors to more herbal and raw flavors.
- Dry hopping in stages will result in greater extraction than one large dry hop addition.
- Both a-acids and humulinones (oxidized a-acids) will increase beer foam, but higher beer pH from dry hopping can negatively impact beer foam as well as hop varieties high in fatty acids.
- Chit malt can help increase foam stability as well as slightly increase beer clarity.
Another useful article
A case for short and cool dry hopping
quote:
Key Findings
- Desirable monoterpene alcohols like linaool and geraniol have been found to extract quickly during dry hopping. When agitated their extraction can take place in hours and when left static extraction was primarily done after just one day.
- Greener and resinous tasting hydrocarbons like myrcene are retained in higher concentrations in hazy IPAs and can mask some of the fruitier more polar compounds. One test found that myrcene levels raised rapidly after the first 24-hours of dry hopping leading towards a less fruit-forward beer.
- Hop thiols are important to overall flavor and aroma despite being in hops in lower concentrations because of their low taste thresholds. One commonly studied thiol called 4MMP was also found to extract quickly in beer during dry hopping, peaking after just two days.
- The longer dry hops were on a beer, the lower the head retention. In addition, alpha-acids from hops help improve beer foam when introduced at cooler temperatures.
- Too many polyphenols from dry hops can lead to astringent and bitter tasting beer. The cooler the dry hop temperature and the shorter the duration, the less polyphenol extraction will likely take place.
- Cooler and shorter dry hop durations can lead to less hop creep.
- Metals from hops can have a negative impact on beer stability and in particular manganese has been found to be one of the most efficient at extracting. Shorter durations and cooler durations were found to reduce this manganese extraction into beer, potentially helping with long-term stability.
This post was edited on 12/10/20 at 2:23 pm
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:09 pm to BugAC
it leaves a lot out of the mouthfeel of a neipa. i used it in a split batch. the only difference was the yeast(london3/neepah). the london3 tasted great and had the juicy mouthfeel. The neepah tasted good but was just a heavy dry hoped pale ale.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:11 pm to BugAC
quote:im about halfway through. i need to get back to it. there are a bunch of ideas i would like to implement into my brews regarding hop type, timing and temp. I really like the book and how he references all these studies on hops that date back hundreds of years.
Not sure if i posted this in the past, but a few of us have ScottJanish's book on the New IPA,
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:11 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
it leaves a lot out of the mouthfeel of a neipa. i used it in a split batch. the only difference was the yeast(london3/neepah). the london3 tasted great and had the juicy mouthfeel. The neepah tasted good but was just a heavy dry hoped pale ale.
Same water profile for both beers? I would think the water profile is more important for mouthfeel than the yeast strain.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:14 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
im about halfway through.
Same i quit reading a while back and just skimmed the key findings of each chapter.
quote:
there are a bunch of ideas i would like to implement into my brews regarding hop type, timing and temp. I really like the book and how he references all these studies on hops that date back hundreds of years.
Everytime i read his articles, i come away thoroughly impressed of how he could read so many scientific papers, analyze them, and then summarize each papers findings, and manage to somehow organize all of his summations and the findings in the right order. I also come away kinda confused if it wasn't for his summations at the end.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:23 pm to BugAC
quote:yes i split the batch into 2 different fermenters with the same dry hop schedule. And yea i thought to so but it made a noticeable difference. Im not saying it is bad... it just doesnt have the full power of juice the other contribute to.
Same water profile for both beers? I would think the water profile is more important for mouthfeel than the yeast strain.
I had a couple more of those in my fridge but in the move i forgot to plug it back in once i got to the new place and i lost all my yeast and bacteria. luckily they were all in the big plastic bag because some burst open. IT wasnt a good smell.
This post was edited on 12/10/20 at 2:25 pm
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:24 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
yes i split the batch into 2 different fermenters with the same dry hop schedule. And yea i thought to so but it made a noticeable difference.
Interesting, well i'll see how it goes. Like i said before, with NEIPA's I change about 3 or 4 things each time just so i won't be able to pinpoint any one factor that could help me next time.
I also added another article onto my last post about Janish.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:39 pm to BugAC
Oh, and here's some links to Trinity brewers out of Texas. They have a lot of good info on clone beers, tree house and trillium in particular.
LINK
Julius Clone Recipe
This is trinity's yeast profile.
12.8 g Fermentis SafAle S-04 English Ale
0.4 g Fermentis SafBrew WB-06 Wheat
0.7 g Fermentis SafBrew T-58 Specialty Ale
LINK
Julius Clone Recipe
This is trinity's yeast profile.
12.8 g Fermentis SafAle S-04 English Ale
0.4 g Fermentis SafBrew WB-06 Wheat
0.7 g Fermentis SafBrew T-58 Specialty Ale
This post was edited on 12/10/20 at 2:55 pm
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:49 pm to BugAC
I have this Frankenstein beer that was a mess up by nothern brewer. It is a stout like beer but is very dry. Anyway to back sweeten it and give it some body? It’s finished fermenting.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 2:52 pm to BigPerm30
quote:
I have this Frankenstein beer that was a mess up by nothern brewer. It is a stout like beer but is very dry. Anyway to back sweeten it and give it some body? It’s finished fermenting.
Maybe add some lactose (milk sugar)? Lactose isn't a fermentable sugar anyway (may want to confirm that from someone else), so you should be fine. Should give you some added sweetness and mouthfeel.
I'd maybe boil 1/2 lb. in a small amount of water, cool, then rack to fermenter and let it sit for a few days before kegging.
This post was edited on 12/10/20 at 2:54 pm
Posted on 12/10/20 at 3:07 pm to BugAC
Seems like the NEEPAH just has a higher attenuation
Posted on 12/10/20 at 3:07 pm to BugAC
1/2 lb for 5 gallons? I figured to throw in some lactose but I wasn’t sure how much. It ended up being freeze. As long as it’s drinkable it’s all good.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 3:15 pm to BigPerm30
quote:
1/2 lb for 5 gallons? I figured to throw in some lactose but I wasn’t sure how much. It ended up being freeze. As long as it’s drinkable it’s all good.
Actually, go with 1 lb. I've brewed with lactose once and made a strawberry milkshake sour. Used 1 lb. of lactose. The beer was excellent, BTW. My wife's cousin helped us drink it and his wife told me it was the best strawberry beer she's had. I learned to stop talking so much shite about milkshake beers after than one.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 3:15 pm to GeauxPack81
quote:
Seems like the NEEPAH just has a higher attenuation
Yeah, i'm hoping the higher mash temp can act as a buffer against that.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 3:24 pm to BugAC
now i have a RIMS i can not wait to do a full stepped mash and a true mash out.
Posted on 12/10/20 at 3:30 pm to CarRamrod
quote:
now i have a RIMS i can not wait to do a full stepped mash and a true mash out.
Yeah. I passed on the electric setup this year and we're getting a basketball goal for the kids instead. I also need to get a 220 moved to the outdoor kitchen, because i realized i don't want to brew in the garage. Until next year...
Posted on 12/10/20 at 3:42 pm to BugAC
quote:aww how sweet.
I passed on the electric setup this year and we're getting a basketball goal for the kids instead.
quote:absolutely. your major cost is really going to be the cost of the wire to run that. IMO you should run it for 50amps incase you want to upgrade and run 2 elements at once.
I also need to get a 220 moved to the outdoor kitchen, because i realized i don't want to brew in the garage. Until next year...
This post was edited on 12/10/20 at 3:43 pm
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