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Started By
Message
Aerating centipede lawn question
Posted on 4/10/18 at 8:22 am
Posted on 4/10/18 at 8:22 am
Hey Baws
So my new sod has grown in for a year and has been looking great, but ive noticed that its not growing in as full as it should in some areas, and has red blades indicating stress.
I think the ground beneath it is hardpacked, which is the reason for the stress because its gotten good water this spring.
Does anyone have any advice or experience with renting an aerator and would this be the right fix to help it grow in thicker and get rid of the red blades? Looks like renting an 18in aerator is like 75 bucks for one day.
So my new sod has grown in for a year and has been looking great, but ive noticed that its not growing in as full as it should in some areas, and has red blades indicating stress.
I think the ground beneath it is hardpacked, which is the reason for the stress because its gotten good water this spring.
Does anyone have any advice or experience with renting an aerator and would this be the right fix to help it grow in thicker and get rid of the red blades? Looks like renting an 18in aerator is like 75 bucks for one day.
2
Posted on 4/10/18 at 9:31 am to TigerFan4040
I'm a big proponent of core aeration. Allows oxygen and water to penetrate to root zone easier, helps prevent standing water puddles, and puts microbes from the soil onto the surface which can help break down thatch. Not to mention the obvious reduction in compaction
Posted on 4/10/18 at 9:48 am to bootlegger
Cool, I think I am going to do it. Is it as simple as it looks, just rent the aerator and make a pass over and rake away the core material left behind?
Posted on 4/10/18 at 9:59 am to TigerFan4040
I have heard you are supposed to leave the core where it lies.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 10:14 am to TigerFan4040
I aerate before a big rain, that way the cores get broken down and I don't have to dull a set of mower blades chopping them up. Usually only golf greens are raked/swept after core aeration.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 10:53 am to bootlegger
Cool sounds good. Ill let yall know how it turns out! Thanks for the advice.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 10:56 am to TigerFan4040
Just make sure the aerator is clean. I aerated my lawn last spring and for the first time in 13 years I've been battling Kyllinga ever since. I'm pretty sure that it rode in on that aerator 
This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 10:57 am
Posted on 4/10/18 at 11:12 am to meeple
Bootleg recommended Dismiss to kill kylinga and it knocked it right out. That shite is expensive as shite though.
Posted on 4/10/18 at 11:14 am to CarRamrod
quote:
Bootleg recommended Dismiss to kill kylinga and it knocked it right out. That shite is expensive as shite though.
I've been using Certainty... did they comment on that?
ETA: Just looked up Dismiss, and I'm going to try it out if Certainty doesn't work this time. Thanks for the rec!
This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 11:20 am
Posted on 4/10/18 at 1:06 pm to meeple
Dismiss, Certainty, etc.... it aint cheap battling the sedges, thats for damn sure
Posted on 4/10/18 at 1:18 pm to bootlegger
And Sedgehammer? It’s cheap.
This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 1:18 pm
Posted on 4/10/18 at 2:13 pm to Coppertone
Sedgehammer runs around $90/acre, about the same as Certainty. Dismiss just below that.
This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 2:14 pm
Posted on 4/10/18 at 3:00 pm to bootlegger
quote:
Sedgehammer runs around $90/acre, about the same as Certainty. Dismiss just below that.
Good think I just have a regular neighborhood lawn. However, now I'm going to have all of this extra herbicide laying around that I don't know what to do with
Posted on 4/10/18 at 9:10 pm to TigerFan4040
Do I need to aerate or dethatch? I know the ground beneath is compacted
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[/url][/img]This post was edited on 4/10/18 at 9:17 pm
Posted on 4/11/18 at 4:55 am to MNCscripper
Compact --> aerate
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