re: How big of a PITA is it to change bathroom faucets?

You will probably want a basin wrench. I will make the job much easier. There is usually not a lot of room, especially if the sink is an undermount (like on most granite applications).

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the head (black part) swivels so it will loosen or tighten the nut on the bottom of the fixture. Remember lefty loosey, righty tighty.