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Message
Jon boat repair : Rivets
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:28 pm
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:28 pm
I am slowly refurbishing this 1542 Duracraft.
I need to replace the transom wood. This is the original wood, so it is a little rotten after almost 30 years.
The top cap is all welded, the knee brace just had 4 bolts to remove, and the bitch is the bottom bracket/shelf holding it up. It is riveted on with 5 solid "buck" aircraft rivets and it is obviously below the waterline.
As much as I hate to do it, I am going to have to drill these rivets out so I can get the bracket out to replace the wood.
I have been reading on re-fastening everything, and it looks like my choices are 1/4" closed end blind rivets or truss head machine screws with washers and lock nuts (5200 applied to either application). I have also read of people using stainless carriage bolts with washers and lock nuts.
What is the best way to go about this? I wouldnt be worried about it if it wasnt below the waterline.
I am leaning towards the machine screws coated in 5200 with washers and lock nuts.
I am just afraid that if the hole is not perfect due to the drillout, that new rivets would not get a great seal and leak even slightly.
Green bracket at the bottom of the wood
Hard to see, but they are the rivets closest to the bottom
I need to replace the transom wood. This is the original wood, so it is a little rotten after almost 30 years.
The top cap is all welded, the knee brace just had 4 bolts to remove, and the bitch is the bottom bracket/shelf holding it up. It is riveted on with 5 solid "buck" aircraft rivets and it is obviously below the waterline.
As much as I hate to do it, I am going to have to drill these rivets out so I can get the bracket out to replace the wood.
I have been reading on re-fastening everything, and it looks like my choices are 1/4" closed end blind rivets or truss head machine screws with washers and lock nuts (5200 applied to either application). I have also read of people using stainless carriage bolts with washers and lock nuts.
What is the best way to go about this? I wouldnt be worried about it if it wasnt below the waterline.
I am leaning towards the machine screws coated in 5200 with washers and lock nuts.
I am just afraid that if the hole is not perfect due to the drillout, that new rivets would not get a great seal and leak even slightly.
Green bracket at the bottom of the wood
Hard to see, but they are the rivets closest to the bottom
8
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:35 pm to Polar Pop
Can you drill out the inside rivets and when they are loose tap them out the back? That way the outside of the boat should not have a larger hole.
You can always add washers to the inside of the rivet or a plate.
You can always add washers to the inside of the rivet or a plate.
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:36 pm to Polar Pop
Have it welded back 
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:39 pm to Polar Pop
Yep, I would used SS machine screws coated in 5200 with washers and lock nuts. Also would used marine plywood for the transom.
Posted on 2/20/15 at 9:40 pm to Polar Pop
Yea ole rivet tin boats are tough to deal with.
Because of the tapered head Id prolly go with carriage bolts,ny lock nuts and a splash of 5200.
Because its a small tin boat, upward water pressure is minimal, because of weight of boat.
Id geaux with whats easiest/cheapest
Plus the larger surface area, head of a carriage bolt will give ya more strength
Because of the tapered head Id prolly go with carriage bolts,ny lock nuts and a splash of 5200.
Because its a small tin boat, upward water pressure is minimal, because of weight of boat.
Id geaux with whats easiest/cheapest
Plus the larger surface area, head of a carriage bolt will give ya more strength
This post was edited on 2/20/15 at 9:43 pm
Posted on 2/20/15 at 11:13 pm to Polar Pop
If you're gonna use screws or bolts, use plumber's goop. I'd personally get it welded though
Posted on 2/21/15 at 4:46 am to Polar Pop
I have a 70's model 14 ft duracraft I use for yoyoing, frogging, etc. last year it started popping rivets really bad. I used SS carriage bolts with flat washer, silicone, and lock nut. Also replaced the transom using the same method. I've ran yoyo's twice and went jugging a few times without any problems.
This post was edited on 2/21/15 at 4:48 am
Posted on 2/21/15 at 7:18 am to Polar Pop
My uncle and I hunted out of a '59 Duracraft for years. It was a 14' narrow flat perfect for getting around trees to our spot.. It was rated for a 10 hp, we had a 20 on it. We basically wore it out... We could only do so many weld repairs from running over cypress knees...
It was a piece of shite, but we had some of the best times ever hunting and fishing out of that thing....
It was a piece of shite, but we had some of the best times ever hunting and fishing out of that thing....
This post was edited on 2/21/15 at 7:24 am
Posted on 2/21/15 at 10:45 am to Polar Pop
I would weld every rivet while you're at it.
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