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Started By
Message
re: Jon boat repair : Rivets
Posted on 2/21/15 at 8:48 am to fishfighter
Posted on 2/21/15 at 8:48 am to fishfighter
Thanks for the tips, guys.
Fish, thank you, I was unaware of the SS clashing with the aluminum boat.
I am going to go ahead and drill out, replace the wood, then call a few shops and see how much they will charge to weld the holes shut and tack the bracket back on the inside. I think for a few dollars and piece of mind, it might be better in the long run depending on cost.
Fish, thank you, I was unaware of the SS clashing with the aluminum boat.
I am going to go ahead and drill out, replace the wood, then call a few shops and see how much they will charge to weld the holes shut and tack the bracket back on the inside. I think for a few dollars and piece of mind, it might be better in the long run depending on cost.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 9:26 am to Polar Pop
Are you gonna clamp the motor to the transom, or drill holes and add bolts to the "clamping." If you use bolts, you're right back to sealing holes in the transom.
That 5200 is used by boat dealers everywhere when when bolting engines to transoms. I think you'll be fine with rivets, bolts or whatever, if you use the 5200. Obviously the welds will be stronger, I don't think you'll gain any great benefit as far as leak prevention.
We mount outboards on our smaller work boats (25 h.p. up to 60 h.p.) using bolts that are run through the transom. We've never had a leak in the last 30 years (and the silicone sealer we had in the "old days" wasn't nearly as good as the 5200).
I'd talk to someone in the rigging department of a reputable boar dealer and ask their opinion on leak prevention through transoms.
That 5200 is used by boat dealers everywhere when when bolting engines to transoms. I think you'll be fine with rivets, bolts or whatever, if you use the 5200. Obviously the welds will be stronger, I don't think you'll gain any great benefit as far as leak prevention.
We mount outboards on our smaller work boats (25 h.p. up to 60 h.p.) using bolts that are run through the transom. We've never had a leak in the last 30 years (and the silicone sealer we had in the "old days" wasn't nearly as good as the 5200).
I'd talk to someone in the rigging department of a reputable boar dealer and ask their opinion on leak prevention through transoms.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 9:29 am to dawg23
I am just going to clamp the motor to the transom instead of drilling through to bolt it.
It is just an old school Johnson 15 that weighs next to nothing.
It is just an old school Johnson 15 that weighs next to nothing.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 9:38 am to dawg23
5200 to aluminum is not a permanent seal, it will eventually break seal
the proper seal is a weld
even the aluminum putty is better than 5200
the proper seal is a weld
even the aluminum putty is better than 5200
Posted on 2/21/15 at 10:45 am to Polar Pop
I would weld every rivet while you're at it.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 10:59 am to Geauxtiga
Or you can just go with this, like we did on that '59....
My uncle finally just said F-it, and bought a new Weldcraft....
My uncle finally just said F-it, and bought a new Weldcraft....
Posted on 2/21/15 at 8:41 pm to hogdaddy
I might look into that method for re-attaching the bracket. Im not sure if I would trust myself with it filling those 5 1/4" holes at the bottom.
I realllly wish this wasnt a riveted boat
It was free so I cant complain too much
I realllly wish this wasnt a riveted boat
It was free so I cant complain too much
Posted on 2/21/15 at 8:43 pm to Polar Pop
Have you made alot of progress on the boat? I am going to try to get an old boat from my dad in the next couple of months.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 9:03 pm to MSWebfoot
Web I got sidetracked with hunting season and am just now starting on the boat.
I am going to tackle this transom, then fab a deck out of aluminum angle/sheet aluminum, a floor from sheet aluminum and a few other small things.
I did get the trailer redone though. I just need to get it extended a little and a new coupler put on.
I am going to tackle this transom, then fab a deck out of aluminum angle/sheet aluminum, a floor from sheet aluminum and a few other small things.
I did get the trailer redone though. I just need to get it extended a little and a new coupler put on.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 9:18 pm to Polar Pop
Sidetracked by hunting season??? That never happens to me!
Trailer looks good.
Trailer looks good.
Posted on 2/21/15 at 10:23 pm to Polar Pop
I restored a '74 1542 Duracraft and replaced a number of rivets after drilling them out. Nothing to it. It helps to have another set of hands to back up the rivet with a heavy sledge when you peen the end. The end of the rivet easily mushrooms. After I replaced the rivets, I filled the hull to check for leaks and there were none. I purchased the rivets at Grainger.
Posted on 2/22/15 at 7:25 pm to TigerTaco
I got the rivets drilled out and bracket dropped. Air drill got away from me on a few, so the holes got off track, ultimately forcing me to have them welded, which I am not mad about.
Sadly, something is going to have to happen with the knee brace. As you can see, the knee brace leaves zero room to remove the wood.
Option 1: Drill rivets out underneath boat, remove knee brace and re-attach (do not want to mess with rivets on underside).
Option 2: Cut top half of knee brace off and figure out how to reattach by either fusing together with strap or angle aluminum, or welding (risk of crack due to flex).
Sadly, something is going to have to happen with the knee brace. As you can see, the knee brace leaves zero room to remove the wood.
Option 1: Drill rivets out underneath boat, remove knee brace and re-attach (do not want to mess with rivets on underside).
Option 2: Cut top half of knee brace off and figure out how to reattach by either fusing together with strap or angle aluminum, or welding (risk of crack due to flex).
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