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Message
re: The tune-up thread
Posted on 8/21/14 at 9:40 am to Hammertime
Posted on 8/21/14 at 9:40 am to Hammertime
quote:
Seafoam is supposed to be much more harsh when added to your oil. I believe you are only supposed to go a couple of hundred miles. Auto-rx stays in for 3500 miles cleaning slowly, you change oil, then wash it all out for another 3500. After that, just do regular oil changes
MJ2, my stock rotors are thick, but the pads are wearing faster on the inside all of the way around. I greased the pins, so hopefully that gets rid of the sticking issue
Yeah, its great at that. Drive a bit and drain.
Are you going to replace the pads? You have a Tahoe, right? Have a '11 that I do all my own work on, too. I just wish they had damn zerk fittings other than the two on the steering. Ridiculous. Just like my Tacoma, which has ZERO zerk fittings...
Posted on 8/21/14 at 11:08 am to Spaceman Spiff
Just buy joints with zerk fittings next time. Mine is an 04 2500HD with the 6.0. I am gonna do pads, turn the rotors, and add stainless lines.
Dunno what vehicle you have, but when you jack it up, lock the steering wheel and take the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake them. If they move, you probably need ball joints. Then, take the tire at 3 and 9 and shake it. And wiggling would suggest tie rods, idler, or pitman need to be replaced, but most probably the rods because they are the smallest joint. Just gotta get underneath and look for any movement. Check the CV boots for tears all of the way around the rubber or grease spilled out also. Maybe a steering stabilizer if you have one. They are only like $30 and pretty easy to replace if you have a bunch of miles. Just check in general for movement while it is in the air or clunking when you are driving.
Clean and grease your caliper pins and remember to properly seat the pads. Also check the color of the fluid, and if it needs to be flushed, get it done at the shop when you get the alignment.
Still a good time to go over all of your fluids and check for loss or discoloration. IIRC, MJ2 posted a pic on the OT of gummed up coolant, and it was nasty. My last truck has two types of coolant mixed in the system and it just looked like green jelly.
*I'm still not a mechanic, but I just kind of figured shite out over the years. Maybe MJ2 or grease might have something else to add.
quote:Sounds like a hub, but jack it up and spin them. You'll be able to hear scraping/grinding/clicking.
TheDrunkenTigah
Dunno what vehicle you have, but when you jack it up, lock the steering wheel and take the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and shake them. If they move, you probably need ball joints. Then, take the tire at 3 and 9 and shake it. And wiggling would suggest tie rods, idler, or pitman need to be replaced, but most probably the rods because they are the smallest joint. Just gotta get underneath and look for any movement. Check the CV boots for tears all of the way around the rubber or grease spilled out also. Maybe a steering stabilizer if you have one. They are only like $30 and pretty easy to replace if you have a bunch of miles. Just check in general for movement while it is in the air or clunking when you are driving.
Clean and grease your caliper pins and remember to properly seat the pads. Also check the color of the fluid, and if it needs to be flushed, get it done at the shop when you get the alignment.
Still a good time to go over all of your fluids and check for loss or discoloration. IIRC, MJ2 posted a pic on the OT of gummed up coolant, and it was nasty. My last truck has two types of coolant mixed in the system and it just looked like green jelly.
*I'm still not a mechanic, but I just kind of figured shite out over the years. Maybe MJ2 or grease might have something else to add.
This post was edited on 8/21/14 at 11:25 am
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