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Message
re: Baitcast reel gear question
Posted on 4/6/14 at 11:43 pm to A_bear
Posted on 4/6/14 at 11:43 pm to A_bear
Get the 7.3
The cranking power you lose will be insignificant for what you'll be catching anyway, it'll let you get the fish in faster, keep tension on the line better when fighting a fish, reel up slack quicker if you hook a big red or bass and it takes off straight at you, get a bad cast back in quicker and recast, etc.
IMHO only advantage to a slower reel is working crankbaits, especially deeper ones.
ETA and I use a curado E7 for my crankbaits anyway. It's harder to reel that slow steadily but cheaper than buying another rod and reel for it for as little as I throw cranks.
The cranking power you lose will be insignificant for what you'll be catching anyway, it'll let you get the fish in faster, keep tension on the line better when fighting a fish, reel up slack quicker if you hook a big red or bass and it takes off straight at you, get a bad cast back in quicker and recast, etc.
IMHO only advantage to a slower reel is working crankbaits, especially deeper ones.
ETA and I use a curado E7 for my crankbaits anyway. It's harder to reel that slow steadily but cheaper than buying another rod and reel for it for as little as I throw cranks.
This post was edited on 4/6/14 at 11:45 pm
2
Posted on 4/6/14 at 11:50 pm to Boats n Hose
Thank y'all I'll be getting the 7.3 
Posted on 4/7/14 at 9:19 am to Boats n Hose
I use E7 Curados and Chronarchs for everything too. I have a Symetre too but the only time I ever spinfish is when I throw popping corks in wind. I also have two older Bantam Curados.
I can't justify having 8 different setups for saltwater and 8 different setups for fresh. 7.3 has always worked for me.
I can't justify having 8 different setups for saltwater and 8 different setups for fresh. 7.3 has always worked for me.
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