Measuring the bullet holes center to center of the extreme spread, what size groups are you getting? I'll make some specific recs on the assumption that the accuracy is suboptimal.

quote:
Could it be the gun, the scope, or is the gun not liking the bullets and/or gr?

Yes, yes, yes and/or prolly not. You're going to have to work through a stepwise process to figure it out. Based on current info, I'd suspect a high point creating pressure on the stock, a problem w/ the scope, a problem w/ the rings/base or a problem w/ the action screws. Erratic shots sound more like a problem w/ the scope, ring, mounts or action screws. If there's a problem w/ a pressure point, the shots will gradually move in the direction AWAY from the pressure point.

A few things specific about Ruger. Their rifle barrels are not usually free floated the entire length of the barrel channel; there's usually a pressure point at the forend. Second, some have had signifiant accuracy issues w/ Rugers that are dependent the sequence of tightening up the 3 action screws. I worked w/ a friend's Ruger bolt action that became a LOT more accurate once I tightened the action screws in the correct sequence and torgue. I don't remember the specifics at this time, but you should be able to Google it.

1. Rule out a problem w/ the scope by changing to a scope you already know to be RELIABLE.
2. Remount the base, using BLUE Loc-Tite (NOT red). I always use the $10 Weaver bases, even on my prairie dog handguns. Easy, and cheap enough, to try your rifle w/ a Weaver base.ETA: Before installing the scope base w/ Loc-Tite, individually check the length of each screw. Put the base in place, then screw in a screw into the intended hole. If the base is not TIGHT, the screw is too long. If the screw is too long, cut off the excess w/ a Dremel tool or get a new screw. It should have a minimum of 3 threads for it to have adequate strength. If it doesn't, it's too short and will need to be replaced. Repeat this step w/ each screw in a different hole.
3. Remount the rings. I don't use Loc-Tite on the rings. Be sure the screws attaching the upper/lower rings are equally tightened. If the rings have not been lapped, do so. If you don't have the equipment to lap them or don't feel comfortable doing it, change the rings to Burris Signature Z-Rings (the ones w/ plastic inserts).
4. Check for any high spots in the barrel channel or action part of the stock.
5. As mentioned, the barrel should already be free floated from the pressure point to just in front of the action; if not, make it so. If it still doesn't shoot well, free float the pressure point at the forend of the stock. If needed, you can always recreate a pressure point on the barrel at the front tip of your stock by putting 1-2 business cards at the very front of the stock in the barrel channel. You can Google all this or look on YouTube.
6. Check the action screws as mentioned above.
7. Use a torque wrench (and follows it's recs) to adjust the mount, rings and action screws.
8. Try different ammo. Sometimes a gun barrel needs more than 3-4 shots w/ a particular load before it starts shooting that load well.
9. I don't worry to awfully much about letting a barrel cool down entirely between shots. A well bedded gun should be reasonably accurate even w/ a hot barrel. I'm leaving for a praire dog hunt in a few days. The guide said to count on 200 rounds/day. I can promise you my barrels will get hot, but the guns will still be VERY accurate.
10. Be sure the crown is not damaged.
11. Be sure the gun is clean, but use the proper equipment, i.e. a one piece steel rod (appropriate caliber) w/ a good bore guide. More gun barrels are ruined by poor cleaning technique than by being dirty.

If it's not reasonably improved w/ the above, I bet it's a more serious problem w/ the barrel/action itself. Good luck and keep us updated.