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Message
re: Homebrewing: All Grain Mash Tun
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:12 am to Fratastic423
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:12 am to Fratastic423
quote:
Fratastic423
Is he talking about batch sparging or fly sparging?
What about his grain to water ratio?
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:15 am to Fratastic423
quote:
That list of steps is really vague and generalized.
Well yeah, i was just making sure the general steps were right. I understand that temps will vary. I have beersmith, so that will help me out.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:15 am to s14suspense
He is talking about what type of mash tun to build (using the false bottom, own manifold or Stainless plumbing tubing), at least I think.
He didn't mention which style of sparging he was trying.
didn't mention grain to water ration either specifically but said (depending on recipe).
He didn't mention which style of sparging he was trying.
didn't mention grain to water ration either specifically but said (depending on recipe).
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:17 am to s14suspense
quote:
Is he talking about batch sparging or fly sparging?
I'm talking fly sparging. When i get my equipment i plan on fly sparging, and false bottom with a 10 gallon round cooler.
quote:
What about his grain to water ratio?
I think that depends on the recipe, correct? I've read 2 quarts/lb, and i've also seen 1.7 quarts/lb.
So i guess my final question, is a 5 gallon brewpot big enough for sparge water?
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:20 am to BugAC
And, FWIW, i am jonesing to start all-grain brewing. I have zero space for anymore bottles in my fridge, or my chest freezer. Which causes a problem with where to put my fermenter. I may take some old cases of homebrews (couple months old) and put them in the hall closet to make room for my fermenter. And, next friday i think i'll bring some to work to give out.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:22 am to BugAC
quote:
I think that depends on the recipe, correct? I've read 2 quarts/lb, and i've also seen 1.7 quarts/lb.
People tend to have a ratio they are comfortable with at their house. I have been using 1.25 but I think i may up it a little closer to 1.5. 2 is going to give you a really thin mash, but that may work for your system. 1.25 is how I learned how to brew, but I am going to change it up this next time.
For me, I would be maxing out a 5 gallon pot and maybe having to bring another gallon of water to temp after. However it may work for you, no other way to find out other than to try. Since I use a low water to grain ratio I need more sparge water.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:23 am to BugAC
quote:
And, next friday i think i'll bring some to work to give out.
What you should do is come to our meeting on Wednesday and give it out.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:28 am to Fratastic423
quote:
What you should do is come to our meeting on Wednesday and give it out
Yeah. Yall meet once a month at the cove, right?
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:32 am to BugAC
Yep, second wednesday of the month around 630.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:33 am to Fratastic423
I'm trying to order parts right now. all systems have 2 stainless nipple and barbs. Why do i need 2, when i'm using 1 10 gallon mash tun?
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:36 am to BugAC
quote:
1. Heat water up to 170 (depending on your recipe). Pour water into your mash tun (in this case 10 gallon round cooler). Put on lid, let the cooler heat up a bit, then drain back into the pot. Add some 5.2 ph stabilizer.
What I do is I heat up about a gallon of water and throw it in the mash tun and close the top before I start heating my strike water. That warms up the mash tun plenty. I dump it prior to adding my strike water.
quote:
1) Is the PH stabilizer necessary? or is this mainly for "bad" water? Do yall use it?
I didn't when I lived in BR. I do now that I live in Nola, but our water is shite down here.
quote:
2) All the videos i've seen, show adding water to your mash tun first, then adding the grains. However, in how to brew, and complete joy, they say to add the grain first. Does it matter?
I've read you want to slowly add water to the grain to avoid super heating some of the grains, but I always add my water first and then the grains. Never had a problem.
quote:
3) What temps should the sparge water be? below 170?
Depends on your grain bill size and current temperature and mash tun properties like insulation and starting temp. For a standard ale on my setup, say a 5.5% beer, my strike water is usually around 164-165ish. Depends on what you want your mash temp to be.
After a few beers you'll get the hang of your equipment and learn how much heat loss and whatnot you experience.
quote:
4) All of the videos i've seen, either a manifold or SS filter was used. What are the benefits of a false bottom over the other 2 options? Better grain bed stability?
I have always used a SS braid as my screen. Not the prettiest, but it works. I am looking at getting a false bottom, however, as sometimes the braid is near impossible to get clear wort from because I smash it with my mash paddle.
quote:
ETA: Also, how much sparge water is typically needed? I have a 5 gallon old brewpot, and would rather use that, than buy a new one if i don't have to.
Depends on things like boil-off rate and pre-boil volume.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:36 am to BugAC
Most people use a valve on their sparge pot. So that you can jsut set it up and forget it. Have the sparge water going into the mash tun at the same rate that the wort is draining from the mash tun.
I am about to try and rig a 3 tier system so that I can automatically fly sparge. At the moment I only have one valved container.
I am about to try and rig a 3 tier system so that I can automatically fly sparge. At the moment I only have one valved container.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:41 am to Fratastic423
quote:
Fratastic423
Northern Brewer has a 10 gallon all-grain system mash tun kit under equipment>all-grain equipment. I am buying the kit, minus the cooler, and switching out the brass fittings for stainless.
Could someone look at it, and let me know what i don't need to buy? The 2 nipples they recommend seem pointless to me, since it comes with a ball valve assembly. I'm just trying not to over buy. I'd link it, but work filters prevent me from going to the site, so i'm shopping by phone.
This post was edited on 6/8/12 at 10:43 am
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:48 am to BugAC
When you say nipples you are referring to the 3/8 barbs?
The ball valve will not have a way to connect to tubing without the barbs. For the last couple of years I have not used the spray attachment, since I sparge by pouring over a tupperware container. however I am about to switch to a spray system but with more than just that sprayer. I have never had that tubing they offer, just regular tubing, but if you do not have tubing you might as well buy good tubing.
The ball valve will not have a way to connect to tubing without the barbs. For the last couple of years I have not used the spray attachment, since I sparge by pouring over a tupperware container. however I am about to switch to a spray system but with more than just that sprayer. I have never had that tubing they offer, just regular tubing, but if you do not have tubing you might as well buy good tubing.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:49 am to BugAC
OK, i think i understand what they are doing.
They are using 2 coolers, one for sparge water, one for mashing. And the sparge water connects to the sparge arms in the mash ton via ball valve and nipples.
I was thinking of using a brewpot for my sparge water, but i guess they put the sparge water in another cooler.
They are using 2 coolers, one for sparge water, one for mashing. And the sparge water connects to the sparge arms in the mash ton via ball valve and nipples.
I was thinking of using a brewpot for my sparge water, but i guess they put the sparge water in another cooler.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:50 am to Fratastic423
quote:
When you say nipples you are referring to the 3/8 barbs?
Yes.
quote:
The ball valve will not have a way to connect to tubing without the barbs.
So that is going from a sparge tank to the sparge arms then?
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:52 am to BugAC
Correct.
You are going to be doing what I have been doing. I am changing my ssystem because I got my hands on another cooler.
If you have a cooler already you will need:
False Bottom
Stainless Ball Valve
2 Barbed Fitting (3/8) - Connect to false bottom and tubing to go to kettle
Tubing to go from mash tun to kettle
Small piece (4 inchs) of tubing to connect false bottom to ball valve.
You are going to be doing what I have been doing. I am changing my ssystem because I got my hands on another cooler.
If you have a cooler already you will need:
False Bottom
Stainless Ball Valve
2 Barbed Fitting (3/8) - Connect to false bottom and tubing to go to kettle
Tubing to go from mash tun to kettle
Small piece (4 inchs) of tubing to connect false bottom to ball valve.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:59 am to BugAC
quote:
The ball valve will not have a way to connect to tubing without the barbs.
So that is going from a sparge tank to the sparge arms then?
the ball valve that you use in your mash tun will not be able to just drain into your kettle without some tubing. You cannot connect tubing directly to the ball valve without a barb fitting. So you have to get the barb fittings along with any ball valve you are going to use.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 10:59 am to Fratastic423
quote:
Small piece (4 inchs) of tubing to connect false bottom to ball valve.
This part throws me. The false bottom sits a couple inches above the spigot on the bottom of the cooler. I thought that the water seeps through the grains, leaving the grain bed on top, and filters out the water. Why do i need to connect a tube from the false bottom to the ball valve? Is the false bottom not perferated? I guess this question is more on how the false bottom works. I'm looking at this picture and it looks like the false bottom sits below the opening of the cooler.
Posted on 6/8/12 at 11:00 am to Fratastic423
quote:
You cannot connect tubing directly to the ball valve without a barb fitting. So you have to get the barb fittings along with any ball valve you are going to use.
Oh, i got you. So the ball valve needs connections on both ends. One going into the ball valve, and one on the exterior end of the ball valve to drain to your brew pot.
ETA: and in further examination of the picture, i think i get it now. The false bottom IS below the opening. The grains rise because they are less dense than the water, and due to the volume of the water, the pressure from the water pushes it up into the opening in the bottome of the false bottom, through the tubing, out through the ball valve.
I got it now. I couldn't wrap my mind around it initially. Thanks for the help.
This post was edited on 6/8/12 at 11:04 am
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