- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Coaching Changes
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Tapping a sink off a dishwasher hookup
Posted on 9/13/25 at 9:33 pm
Posted on 9/13/25 at 9:33 pm
Is this possible? Most of our major projects of necessity are over (thank god) and we are on to projects for things we just can’t to change.
We have a utility room with open walls I want to add a utility sink to. Mostly to wash our dog. There’s also sewer to tap into which I feel more comfortable with given its just PVC.
I have never worked with cooper or pex before or really run much incoming plumbing. I had also never framed, drywalled, did electrical, etc.. before owning this house to a serious degree either and all of those have generally gone fine with enough study, care and effort. So I fully believe I could learn how to work with them enough to tap a line for 10ish feet to a sink.
However, I am mentally exhausted and really don’t want to
I have copper line running to a valve which then has metal flex hose hooked up from the dryer. Hot and cold obviously. Is there a way to tap off of those valves to a Y. Go to the washer in one direction and then to the sink in the other. Would make my life so much easier and could do that in a single day easy.
We have a utility room with open walls I want to add a utility sink to. Mostly to wash our dog. There’s also sewer to tap into which I feel more comfortable with given its just PVC.
I have never worked with cooper or pex before or really run much incoming plumbing. I had also never framed, drywalled, did electrical, etc.. before owning this house to a serious degree either and all of those have generally gone fine with enough study, care and effort. So I fully believe I could learn how to work with them enough to tap a line for 10ish feet to a sink.
However, I am mentally exhausted and really don’t want to
I have copper line running to a valve which then has metal flex hose hooked up from the dryer. Hot and cold obviously. Is there a way to tap off of those valves to a Y. Go to the washer in one direction and then to the sink in the other. Would make my life so much easier and could do that in a single day easy. 
3
Posted on 9/13/25 at 11:17 pm to jlovel7
Yeah, if there is a 3/8" compression outlet on the valves then just get an add-a-tee but your description of the whole setup is confusing. Neither pex or copper are difficult to work with either, I work with copper fixtures and pex in both crimp rings and expansion fittings.
Posted on 9/14/25 at 6:49 am to jlovel7
I dont see why you couldn't do that.
Hardest thing would probably be finding a long enough flex line for 10ft. You might have to use a coupler on the lines. You'd also just have a flex hose exposed for 10ft, but I guess if you have no plans for drywall and dont really care how it looks, sure
Hardest thing would probably be finding a long enough flex line for 10ft. You might have to use a coupler on the lines. You'd also just have a flex hose exposed for 10ft, but I guess if you have no plans for drywall and dont really care how it looks, sure
Posted on 9/14/25 at 9:53 am to Puffoluffagus
I think the issue he will have is flow volume, 3/8" line that long is going to have some good pressure loss. It's ok when running faucets when the connection to the valve is anywhere from less than a foot to maybe 3 feet. Dishwasher, ice maker, etc doesn't doesn't matter as much, worst is that they'll need an extra minute or two to fill between cycles but for a utility sink I'd want some good pressure for a decent faucet. Start coupling compression lines together and that's asking for more places for a leak to develop too.
Posted on 9/14/25 at 5:53 pm to jlovel7
If walls are open and existing is copper...
Don't hesitate to install a copper to pex Tee yourself.
It sounds like you have done quite a bit of diy. Soldering copper is almost dummy proof. If you are nervous, grab a piece of 3/4 inch, flux, solder, torch and a couple fittings and practice for an hour. Remember, you apply flux and heat where you want the solder to go.
Pex is even more dummy proof. Use pex-b and crimp rings. Can buy a manual crimp tool from home Depot for ~60 dollars. Don't use the pinch rings, use the real crimp rings.
You can buy all the materials and tools for what it would cost you to bring a plumber out to install a tee and faucet connection. Everything add/rework I do in my house, I convert to pex. It's just too easy to work with and parts are too easy to get. It's also more resilient than cpvc and cheaper than copper.
Don't hesitate to install a copper to pex Tee yourself.
It sounds like you have done quite a bit of diy. Soldering copper is almost dummy proof. If you are nervous, grab a piece of 3/4 inch, flux, solder, torch and a couple fittings and practice for an hour. Remember, you apply flux and heat where you want the solder to go.
Pex is even more dummy proof. Use pex-b and crimp rings. Can buy a manual crimp tool from home Depot for ~60 dollars. Don't use the pinch rings, use the real crimp rings.
You can buy all the materials and tools for what it would cost you to bring a plumber out to install a tee and faucet connection. Everything add/rework I do in my house, I convert to pex. It's just too easy to work with and parts are too easy to get. It's also more resilient than cpvc and cheaper than copper.
Posted on 9/15/25 at 9:52 am to baseballmind1212
None of these things are dummy proof, prepping the joints properly is a must for any system. Cleaning, de-burring, using flux properly, applying solder (lead-free at that for any potable water connection), and applying heat are all steps that can be screwed up. Knowing how much solder to apply is also something newbs mess up, doesn't take much (for 1/2" copper, 1/2" of solder; 3/4" for 3/4", etc). I've opened up a 3/4" supply to a water heater that may as well have been plumbed with 1/2" for all the solder that had filled in the joint on the inside. PEX is easy to screw up too, easy to improperly crimp fittings, use the wrong type of PEX for a given fitting and vice-versa, not cut the tubing clean and square, etc.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News